Help me make up my mind.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
285/75r16s are just under a 33, about 11.5 inches wide, and with my BJ spacers in I'd need a small body lift or wheel spacer to clear the upper control arms. On the other hand, 255/85r16s are just over a 33, and about 10 inches wide. I wouldn't need to do anything to make them fit.

Narrow and slightly taller, or wider and more stable (but add a body lift)?
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'd go with the taller, narrower tires. But I"d always pick wheel spacers over a body lift. What about a proper lift instead of BJ spacers?
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
What about a proper lift instead of BJ spacers?

Like what, a drop-bracket lift? Out of the budget, and I don't need or want to go that high anyway.

I know we talked a little bit about the pros and cons of wheel spacers the other night, but why would you take them over a 1" body lift?
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Taller would give you more side wall ;) just saying. What about the sawzall approach?

:D

Either tire will clear the fender easily, but the wider ones will probably have trouble clearing the upper control arm when I'm flexed.
 
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SAMI

Formerly Beardy McGee
Location
SLC, UT
I vote 255's. I ran 285's on my Xterra with wheel adapters and it just sucked to always worry about hitting the fender, or just rubbing in general. 255's never had an issue even with the adapters. I would love a set of 255/85 KM2's on the 62.
 

Thardy

"FARM TOY"
Location
Santaquin, Utah
I would go with the 255. I like my 285's but as you know there is a lot of fender rub. On the 285's unless you get new wheels they will rub just putting them on, at least they did on my 3rd gen. The wheels you have are the same backspacing as the ones I have, that's why I went with spacers.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Like what, a drop-bracket lift? Out of the budget, and I don't need or want to go that high anyway.

I know we talked a little bit about the pros and cons of wheel spacers the other night, but why would you take them over a 1" body lift?


Regarding lifts, I would go with an OME lift, or just crank up the torsion bars if that's out of the budget. I wouldn't go with a drop-bracket lift either, those suck.
http://cruiseroutfitters.com/sus_4runner_gen1.html


I'm strongly opposed to body lifts (and wheel spacers too, but they're the lesser evil). I can usually feel body lifts while driving (increased body roll, creaking, etc). All that aside, your sliders will sit 1" lower than your body, your bumper will sit 1" lower than your body, your shifters, steering, gas filler, wiring will all be an inch off (not a HUGE deal). A 1" body lift is minimal, but I still don't like 'em. If the only reason you want to install the body lift is to clear taller tires, I'd resort to trimming the fenders before a body lift.

I think getting properly spaced wheels is the preferable solution. I'd also trim the fenders before I resorted to a body lift, but that's just me.
 

LT.

Well-Known Member
I would go with the 255's over the 285's. 255 is taller, has more side wall, and this equates to more ground clearance under the truck. And the fact that you won't have do do any other modifications means this is the tire for you. If you drive your rig on the street then you should also get better mileage, less wander, and in most cases I believe a taller narrow tire does better than a wide tire. That is unless you are in bottomless terrain but, even the 285 won't save you there.

LT.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Cranking the torsion bars reduces travel, if anything I'd like to relax them when I redo the rear suspension. But I think I was leaning towards the 255s anyway, and I'm glad to see that that's the consensus. Thanks for the input, everybody.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
What I like about the ball joint spacers it leaves the stock amount of downward suspension travel (droop). The last IFS Toyota I cranked the torsion bars on rode like crap and it had almost no droop in the suspension. I would use the spacer or leave it stock long before I cranked the torsion bars personally.

Just a heads up, my 255 KM2's are maybe a 1/2" shorter than my 35x12.50 BFG mud terrains (old style). Some measure taller than others same goes for the 235's. It would be good to research what the actual height is on a specific brand tire in that size is before you pull the trigger.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Just a heads up, my 255 KM2's are maybe a 1/2" shorter than my 35x12.50 BFG mud terrains (old style).

The KM2s are exactly what I was going for. BFG says they measure at 33.3, is it possible that the 35s were a bit small?
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
The KM2s are exactly what I was going for. BFG says they measure at 33.3, is it possible that the 35s were a bit small?

A 35" tire is never 35"s, same with a 33". In my experience, the 285s have always been taller than 33"s. So if the 255s are even taller, than you'll be pushing 35" range like Rot Box pointed out.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
The KM2s are exactly what I was going for. BFG says they measure at 33.3, is it possible that the 35s were a bit small?

Out of curiosity I went out and sized them up with a tape measure and eyecrometer--33.3-33.5 looks about right for a new 255. The 35's are a little worn a bit and come in at about 34. Either way a tad over 33 is a safe bet for the 255's. With the weight of my diesel on them they are more like 31's measuring off of the ground with 65 psi. My pickup is really heavy and I noticed the narrow tires really stand out in the snow and mud. I'm sure there are +'s and -'s to every size though depending on application and use...
 
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