Hoosier's Jeep XJ (Yes another XJ build)

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
So the best prices i have been able to come up with (new parts, not opposed to used just cant find them) 2125 for the front, selectable locker, gears, shafts and joints

600 for the rear, locker, gears.
 

phatfoto

Giver of bad advice
Location
Tooele
Glad to see that housing getting used instead of sitting in my pile... I had intended it for other purposes when I got it, but happy to see it getting used anyway. I was planning to remove the control arm brackets and replace with aftermarket parts anyway.
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
So when doing the wj knuckles everthing i have read says look for the 03/04 but all i can seem to find are earlier gc in the local yards
 

corbin.black

Active Member
So when doing the wj knuckles everthing i have read says look for the 03/04 but all i can seem to find are earlier gc in the local yards

Did they say why you need the 03/04 knuckles? I don't remember there being a difference in the knuckles from 99/04. the only reason I can think of for why they would suggest the 03/04 is that they will have better brakes attached to them. but the older knuckles will be able to accept the better brakes so the actual knuckle shouldn't matter
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
So I got the chance to work on the Heep for a little bit today. As mentioned before my fenders needed trimming. The natural tire clearanceing was a little iffy. So I broke out the tools and got started

I started by removing the front portion under the marker light
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This is the tire clearanceing done while wheeling

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Then onto the fender itself. I like to use blue masking tape because I can get the idea of what it will look like prior to making the cuts.

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Then I cleaned up the cut with a flap disk. (unsure if I am going to do the complete body work or not.)

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Then threw on some bed liner to keep the rust away... for now

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Gotta love when you get into a panel that someone fixed half @$$. it drives me nuts

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hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
I have a tough time doing things half @$$ed on my rigs. Weird i know but you have to remember i am normally a Toyota guy so doing things right just comes natural. I will try to learn the jeep guy way of halfassedness. (Let the comments flow)
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
Ok so I got the sway bars disconnected, the fenders cut up, and ran out into the field to see if it would rub

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This was as we pulled into the field. Went and did a few little jumps and went threw some deep mud and everything seemed to work better and the ride was WAY better. I really need to build the new Y links the bushings are worn out on the upper arms.
 

STAG

Well-Known Member
I only say that because out of the hundreds of XJ's I've seen, I can count on one hand the ones that were not built with something half assed. And I cannot say my XJ was half-ass-free

and you need to update your signature line, getting rid of the mini burb in place of the Xj
 

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
I dont mind, i have also found that in this hobby if you buy a "used" rig most of the time it is halfassed

Which is probably the main reason my son ended up with a stock XJ. Its more expensive, but at least we'll know what we can expect.
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
That is the best way to go. I just hate that when i traded my Toyota for my Chevy, mine was complete, right, and clean i get the Chevy and it was half assed, a wiring nightmare, tires were toast ect... annoying
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
So i have been looking and building the trusses for the 30. (Because its free). Have found a buch of different ways of doing it. Now my question is do i rebuild the pass side upper mount then truss around it or do i build the truss then make the bracket off the top? I have seen it both way while searching around.
 
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