James K
NO, I'm always like this
- Location
- Taylorsville, Ut
did you have a existing internal cage you tied into or did you build all new?
I got a little tube work finally done
- Thread starter muleskinner
- Start date
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
James K said:
I tied into the existing.
James K
NO, I'm always like this
- Location
- Taylorsville, Ut
muleskinner said:
now didn't you say you were going to run some sort of top for the back half?
if so whats the plan?
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
James K said:
Uh... did I say that
Yea, I need some type of a top... I'm still working on that My build plans have changed 4,378 times so far.
James K
NO, I'm always like this
- Location
- Taylorsville, Ut
muleskinner said:
right on par with everyone else
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
James K said:right on par with everyone else
Yep!
samizook said:Don't do the Krylon Bro! Do the POR. This way You'll only have to do it once
POR, IMO isn't all that great...especially for the price...I have used POR a TON and I will say its a great product. however you have to paint it twice cause you have to do a top coat over the POR cause POR has zero UV protection...also you have to use some of their Metal Ready or something similar on new steel otherwise it wont stick very well and will be peeling within the year
James K
NO, I'm always like this
- Location
- Taylorsville, Ut
supergper said:I dont know what you guys are refering to
those who responded to that statement are the most guilty
samizook
Registered User
I agree with you on the price. However, I feel POR 15 is going to out last Krylon by a long shot (when applied properly). If I am going to spend alot of time, and pride fabricating My own custom cage I personally would not apply a rattlecan paint product to it. The only other option that is alot more expensive and time consuming (that i would consider) Would be to go through the long process of scuffing all metal being painted, Then apply an etching primer, Highbuild primer, then topcoat(single stage). Too much of a headache, And too much money to spend on something that's going to see alot of scrapes and dings. The good thing about POR 15 is that it does not require a catalyst before being applied. Thus leading to a quick and simple application procedure.(paint brush)supergper said:POR, IMO isn't all that great...especially for the price...I have used POR a TON and I will say its a great product. however you have to paint it twice cause you have to do a top coat over the POR cause POR has zero UV protection...also you have to use some of their Metal Ready or something similar on new steel otherwise it wont stick very well and will be peeling within the year
I also know that most rattlecan paints are watersoluable
My .02
wrangler
for those about to rock..
- Location
- morgan, utah
looks so cool.
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
Well, Rear links are almost done, I need to gusset and brace the LCA mounting points at the front, finnish some welding, double sleeve the LCA's, and a few other things. all points on the rear links are adjustable I had to cut out about 2 1/2 ft of the frame in the front and bend an arc for the D60 pumpkin to clear but I will hopefully start on my front links/Hydrosteer next week.
I had to cut out about 2 1/2 ft of the frame in the front and bend an arc for the D60 pumpkin to clear but I will hopefully start on my front links/Hydrosteer next week.
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Scott, that is sooooooooo Bad to the Bone! I'll be looking closely to that 4 link & bracketry. Did you buy those adjustable mounts, or build them?
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
Greg said:
Thanks Greg, All the mounts are built by me except for the lower shock mounts. (I just cut a radius into some from Rocklogic) Feel free to stop by whenever you want. We can cycle it if you want it seems to work so far.