Its Time... Manual -> Auto Swap

I don't know. A long time ago I read it's really not a strong enough way to engine brake. Only engaged in overdrive anyway unless you modify and won't hold up. Things may have changed and I never dove deep into the tech.
I agree, I think....with as magic as automatic transmissions are to me, I don't think a lockup converter really affects engine braking. The bigger difference is whether your valve body makes engine braking happen, or not.
 
Complete Hokus Pokus to me. I just ordered one. Manual valve body and specified I wanted engine braking. Hope that's what happens. Not sure I will know the difference. I always had a granny low 4 speed
 
I have a manual valve body in my T400 in my Buick. No significant engine braking but I assume I have a 3000-3400 stall converter in there also. I'm not sure if that's a factor.
 
I had a TH350 built for my old TJ with a LS 5.3 many years ago. I added a manual valve body with engine braking and it worked well in that aspect. Loved the engine braking on steep hills and drops.


I will say, I wish I'd had used a 4l60E for a deeper first gear and the overdrive. Mine wasn't a street rig either, but having OD sure has been nice in my current TJ.

My old TJ felt like it lacked gearing in low range, during certain situations. I had a 4.3 ratio Atlas and when I needed instant wheel speed and RPM, it didn't have it. A higher stall convertor would have helped too. I had a 2000 RPM stall, should have done 2500 RPM IMO.
 
I had a TH350 built for my old TJ with a LS 5.3 many years ago. I added a manual valve body with engine braking and it worked well in that aspect. Loved the engine braking on steep hills and drops.


I will say, I wish I'd had used a 4l60E for a deeper first gear and the overdrive. Mine wasn't a street rig either, but having OD sure has been nice in my current TJ.

My old TJ felt like it lacked gearing in low range, during certain situations. I had a 4.3 ratio Atlas and when I needed instant wheel speed and RPM, it didn't have it. A higher stall convertor would have helped too. I had a 2000 RPM stall, should have done 2500 RPM IMO.

This is good feedback. I'll read through this. I know you alluded to it in your previous post, but do you feel a combination with the correct converter and my lower 5.0 Atlas will make for a better combo?

You can order valve bodies with or without engine breaking. My current valve body in my buggy/Th350 has engine breaking in 1st and 2nd. I love it on a steep decent. I don't need to use very much if any breaking. My valve body is also a full manual valve body.
What ratio are you running in your t-case? Any idea on the converter stall?
 
This is good feedback. I'll read through this. I know you alluded to it in your previous post, but do you feel a combination with the correct converter and my lower 5.0 Atlas will make for a better combo?

I think it'll work well, with the higher 1st gear ratio of a TH350.
 
This is good feedback. I'll read through this. I know you alluded to it in your previous post, but do you feel a combination with the correct converter and my lower 5.0 Atlas will make for a better combo?


What ratio are you running in your t-case? Any idea on the converter stall?
I have a 4 speed atlas. My double low is 5.44:1. I have 5.38s in the rear able and 5.13s in the front. I like a lower stall. I have wheeled with people in higher stalls and it seems difficult to control. Mine is a normal stall with a 12 in converter.
 
You can order valve bodies with or without engine breaking. My current valve body in my buggy/Th350 has engine breaking in 1st and 2nd. I love it on a steep decent. I don't need to use very much if any breaking. My valve body is also a full manual valve body.

My old turbo Caravan had a Cheetah Competition reverse-pattern manual valve body, and it only had engine braking in 2nd and 3rd gears. (I didn't order it that way; that's just how they make it.) Turbo Action offers this valve body because the A-413 in the minivan was essentially just an old A904 RWD automatic turned sideways and converted into a transaxle.

The only thing more fun than daily driving a minivan with a reverse-pattern manual valve body was telling muscle car owners that I had a reverse-pattern manual valve body in my minivan. :D
 
The jeep I’m running now has a 4L80 and a 4 speed Atlas. 5.38s and 43”s. The Atlas has 3.8 reduction and when you shift the reduction box in it becomes 10.3 to 1 and it is unusable. The jeep in low range 3.8 with the 2.5 or so trans ratio seems to work fine for everything
 
Advanced adapters are quite a bit cheaper than that. Are those Novak prices? Some of your other items on the list seem too cheap.
 
Yes, those are Novak prices, I'll check out AA. I'll double check my prices on the other things as well. Thanks for being a sounding board.
 
I have used and been happy with both companies products. I’m a little bit down on AA lately after waiting 6 months for an Atlas
 
The only other one that makes sense while not as popular as the TH350 would be a 32RH out of a similar year TJ.

I found one in Denver needing rebuilt, for $400 and includes everything to swap (brake pedal assembly, trans, cooler lines, shifter, cables etc.)

If I go that route, I’d need to either make a 2 day trip out of it or get a freight company to bring it to Utah. 🤷‍♂️
 
The only other one that makes sense while not as popular as the TH350 would be a 32RH out of a similar year TJ.

I found one in Denver needing rebuilt, for $400 and includes everything to swap (brake pedal assembly, trans, cooler lines, shifter, cables etc.)

If I go that route, I’d need to either make a 2 day trip out of it or get a freight company to bring it to Utah. 🤷‍♂️
I ordered my buggy trans on Carpart and just had them ship it. It was delivered via a freight truck with a lift-gate and they dropped the pallet/crate on my driveway. I don’t remember it being expensive either. Easy peasy.
 
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