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Learning to TIG with a multi-process machine....

Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
So I bought another multi-process machine, a Hobart Multi-Handler 200 that will MIG, TIG and ARC weld. I've wanted to learn how to TIG for some time and this machine seems like a good one to learn with. I'd really like to learn TIG and incorporate it into my fab work.


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This machine is a 'Lift-Start' DC TIG and seems pretty simple to operate. Here's what was included with the machine, TIG torch, tungsten, cups, etc. Looks like a 3/32" tungsten would be the best size?

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You can add a foot pedal, but it will work without one. The foot pedal is part# 300432, cost looks to be around $240-250. Here's a link to the pedal. - https://store.cyberweld.com/rfrefoco.html

Here's a very basic TIG video for the Hobart 200.-

I'll need another tank for 100% Argon and heard that I should use a flow meter type gauge and regulator. I have a standard gauge & regulator setup that I could use, will it work as well?

Need to get some filler rod... I'll typically be welding 1/8"-3/16" mild steel.

I understand that a Tungsten grinder is a good idea, saw this one from Eastwood. - https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tg1800-tungsten-grinder.html

Also found a great TIG tutorial online, here. - https://weldingmastermind.com/how-to-set-up-argon-for-tig-welding/

Any other tips?
 
frieed

frieed

Jeepless in Draper
Supporting Member
Location
Draper, UT
Tig likes really good fitup and squeaky clean metal. Bright and shiny with no mill scale.
3/32 tungsten will be fine for 1/8" - 3/16". I prefer a gas lens and have both water cooled and gas cooled torches.
For grinding tungsten, I have a dedicated grinder but I've seen people buy a flat diamond wheel (looks about like a cut-off wheel)
and mount it to the outside of a stone on a bench grinder. Then sharpen the tungsten on the side of the wheel. I also chuck the tungsten in a drill and use my 12" disc sander to knock any globs off before I use the tungsten grinder (globs won't fit through the hole in the angle guide). The most important thing on grinding is the grind marks must align with the length of the tungsten, toward the point. If the marks are rings around the bevel from spinning the drill too fast the ark gets really erratic.

Also, go down the TIG video rabbit hole on weldingtipsandtricks.com
 
UNSTUCK

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a tungsten be sharpened so that the grind marks/grooves/lines are parallel with the tungsten, and not perpendicular to it? I haven't ever tried sharpening it perpendicular so I don't know if it really matters.
 
YROC FAB.

YROC FAB.

BUGGY TIME
Vendor
Location
Richfield, UT.
UNSTUCK said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a tungsten be sharpened so that the grind marks/grooves/lines are parallel with the tungsten, and not perpendicular to it? I haven't ever tried sharpening it perpendicular so I don't know if it really matters.
Click to expand...
Yes. Ideally no grind marks
 
frieed

frieed

Jeepless in Draper
Supporting Member
Location
Draper, UT
UNSTUCK said:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a tungsten be sharpened so that the grind marks/grooves/lines are parallel with the tungsten, and not perpendicular to it? I haven't ever tried sharpening it perpendicular so I don't know if it really matters.
Click to expand...
I thought that's what I said without saying parallel, but yes, you are correct.
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
I've been slowly trying to tig here and there. (ESAB multi process, DC tig) This is probably my 5th attempt over the period of a year. I hated it at first but now it's kinda growing on me. This weld sucks but it's the best I've done so far but I did have a stop mid way through (I accidentally pulled the torch too far away while trying to feed more filler from my other hand, dark brown spot)

It's pretty fun though, I doubt I will use tig welding on any 4x4 work but I'm kicking around the idea of some ornamental house stuff that would be fun to make and weld up.

Also, seems like I have the heat turned up a bit too much. Any thoughts?

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SoopaHick

SoopaHick

Certified Weld Judger
Moderator
Location
Eagle Mountain, Utah
Herzog said:
I've been slowly trying to tig here and there. (ESAB multi process, DC tig) This is probably my 5th attempt over the period of a year. I hated it at first but now it's kinda growing on me. This weld sucks but it's the best I've done so far but I did have a stop mid way through (I accidentally pulled the torch too far away while trying to feed more filler from my other hand, dark brown spot)

It's pretty fun though, I doubt I will use tig welding on any 4x4 work but I'm kicking around the idea of some ornamental house stuff that would be fun to make and weld up.

Also, seems like I have the heat turned up a bit too much. Any thoughts?

View attachment 143114
Click to expand...
Definitely a little hot but not by much. Could even be that your tungsten was just slightly too far away. Just make sure the metal is crazy clean, and try and keep the tip of your filler within your gas flow and it will keep the red hot edge from corrupting and graying out your weld.
 
N-Smooth

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Meanwhile my 15 year old Lowes Lincoln 180 is going strong. I can’t imagine how irritated you have to be at this point
 
Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
Herzog said:
That's infuriating. Hopefully the next machine will be the ticket.
Click to expand...

It's barely out of warranty, I called the Hobart customer service number and left a message. Haven't heard back yet.

I'll get it repaired and keep it around, it is great with mig.

I am looking for a dedicated tig machine though...


xj_nate said:
Meanwhile my 15 year old Lowes Lincoln 180 is going strong. I can’t imagine how irritated you have to be at this point
Click to expand...

My old Lincoln was a SP175 220v I bought at 18 yrs old. I sold it 2 years ago after I picked up the ESAB, which also shut down on me and had to be repaired. The Lincoln served me well for 27 years!

I am pretty pissed off, I bought a pedal for the Hobart, new bottle for argon, flow regulator and spent a lot of time getting set up to tig... and it shit the bed on the first arc strike.


Mouse said:
Is there a fuse in the power supply? Hopefully its not something with the computer
Click to expand...

There's a circuit breaker at the back of the machine, it hadn't been tripped and I've pressed it several times to verify its not the problem.

Sometimes when I turn the power switch on, the machine will fire up, only to shut off a second later. I thought it was the switch itself, but now I'm not so sure.
 
Greg

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I was dead set on learning to TIG this weekend and wasn't going to let a broken Hobart ruin my plans, so after some research I picked up a dedicated TIG machine. After quite a bit of reading & comparing, I decided to go with a HF Vulcan ProTIG 205. It has some neat features that cheaper machines (and my multi-process Hobart) are lacking;

  • A/C & D/C options so I can weld aluminum
  • Automatic pre & post flow
  • High frequency arc start
  • Pulse control

They claim the ProTIG can weld up to 5/16" in a single pass. Now I'm not a big fan of spendy purchases at HF, but the reviews for this machine are pretty impressive. And if my ESAB & Hobart are crapping out just over a year into ownership, I don't feel bad about saving a little $$$ with a 'pro' HF machine.

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Setup was straight forward, the learning curve with TIG is pretty steep though. I started with a piece of plate and just worked on torch & puddle control. I played with adding some filler, but need to work on my timing & technique. It's pretty awesome how clearly you can watch the puddle and how the tungsten and arc work together. I do need a proper tungsten grinder.... I'm spending a lot of time cleaning up the tip. I decided to weld up a round tube joint and that was a challenge. I totally understand why MIG is the preferred choice for speed and ease of use!

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skippy

skippy

Pretend Fabricator
Location
Tooele
If you have any questions let me know. I went through the learning curve myself over the last 2-3 years and am just now getting comfortable with aluminum
 
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