Jeep LS swap for the LJ
- Thread starter glockman
- Start date
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Thanks for the shop suggestions. I'll give then a call tomorrow.
After thinking about the clocking ring, I think that I'll just order it and skip the spacers.
After thinking about the clocking ring, I think that I'll just order it and skip the spacers.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Well, got the plastic welder (soldering iron) out and fixed the trans cable.
Before
After
I melted a few pieces of fine wire mesh into it and it's solid.
Installed the cable and the lokar arm in the trans. It shifts through every gear pretty smoothly.
Taking drive shafts to Gaylons tomorrow.
Before
After
I melted a few pieces of fine wire mesh into it and it's solid.
Installed the cable and the lokar arm in the trans. It shifts through every gear pretty smoothly.
Taking drive shafts to Gaylons tomorrow.
LJTim
Active Member
- Location
- Herriman, UT
Dang. This is making me super jealous. Very nice work.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Gaylons was really helpful and knowledgeable today.
The jb conversions SYE I installed has a 1350 flange. The bolt pattern doesn't match the Rubicon flange for my rear driveline. They are going to use a Ford flange that fits and keeps the 1310 joints. This saves some money and allows me to upgrade to 1350`s in the future if I have issues.
They are also going to install a Dodge flange on the front shaft that will mate to the Chevy flange.
I got the cooling system buttoned up too.
Used gates heater hoses,
28471 & 28480. They fit great just had to trim 6 to 8 inches off. The upper radiator hose is cut from the stock. My superior radiator has both ports on the passenger side.
The lower hose I used gates 20230.it fits well but took a couple iterations.
Started on the trans cross member while I wait for the T case clocking ring I ordered to get here.
The jb conversions SYE I installed has a 1350 flange. The bolt pattern doesn't match the Rubicon flange for my rear driveline. They are going to use a Ford flange that fits and keeps the 1310 joints. This saves some money and allows me to upgrade to 1350`s in the future if I have issues.
They are also going to install a Dodge flange on the front shaft that will mate to the Chevy flange.
I got the cooling system buttoned up too.
Used gates heater hoses,
28471 & 28480. They fit great just had to trim 6 to 8 inches off. The upper radiator hose is cut from the stock. My superior radiator has both ports on the passenger side.
The lower hose I used gates 20230.it fits well but took a couple iterations.
Started on the trans cross member while I wait for the T case clocking ring I ordered to get here.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Thanks man. It's coming along pretty good now.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Finished the stand alone transmission cross member. The frame mounts are only tacked in. Once I get the clocking ring mounted I'll burn them in if all fits well. It's 1x3 1/8 wall tube. The frame mounts are 1/4" angle. The lowest part of the cross member is 2“ below the frame which will tuck in my skid.
Then moved on to the air intake and filter.
Lots of people use the specter kit from parts stores and modify it. I found this kit from black dog racing on Amazon for $53 vs $150 for the specter kit. I really only need the boots and tube with the 45. I'm going with this donalson filter from Volant part 61509.
Still need a 3.5" to 4" coupler o go from the MAF to the filter.
With the coolant loops complete and the intake done, I moved on to the throttle.
Clamped and tested the Jeep pedal on the GM assembly.
Drilled an alignment hole.
All welded up and painted.
And in the Jeep.
I called the tuner today and he told me most of the trucks don't have vats. So once I get oil and coolant in it, it should start.
I'm holding off on oil because I need to pull the oil pan and replace the pickup tube O-ring. It was not replaced and this is a common failure on LS's. It might be ok but it will bug me if I don't replace it and it's dry and clean now so why not.
Then moved on to the air intake and filter.
Lots of people use the specter kit from parts stores and modify it. I found this kit from black dog racing on Amazon for $53 vs $150 for the specter kit. I really only need the boots and tube with the 45. I'm going with this donalson filter from Volant part 61509.
Still need a 3.5" to 4" coupler o go from the MAF to the filter.
With the coolant loops complete and the intake done, I moved on to the throttle.
Clamped and tested the Jeep pedal on the GM assembly.
Drilled an alignment hole.
All welded up and painted.
And in the Jeep.
I called the tuner today and he told me most of the trucks don't have vats. So once I get oil and coolant in it, it should start.
I'm holding off on oil because I need to pull the oil pan and replace the pickup tube O-ring. It was not replaced and this is a common failure on LS's. It might be ok but it will bug me if I don't replace it and it's dry and clean now so why not.
Last edited:
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Coming along nicely. Very clean installations.
Mike
Mike
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Thanks Mike. 24 days to EJS! I'm feeling the pressure.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Yes there is. It's a pretty nice unit as long as it has enough capacity. I bought it from a guy who had it in an 05 LJ with a 4.8 built to run the Mint 400. He said the only time it couldn't keep up was at the sand dunes. He changed when he went to a built 6.0 and full tubed his engine bay so it no longer fit.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Got the clocking ring installed. Made a gasket from some card stock using the old hot rod trick I learned from an old school guy I worked for when I was about 17.
Ring installed.
It tucked the transfer case just about perfect on the first hole which is 10 degrees. I have one bolt boss touching the floor but can easily be clearanced with a hammer😁
Before
After
Also got the reducer for the air filter.
The truck intakes ar 4" OD. the truck MAF is 3.8“. Intakehoses.com had the right reducer and shipped it fast.
Tomorrow I'll add fluids and start the beast.
Ring installed.
It tucked the transfer case just about perfect on the first hole which is 10 degrees. I have one bolt boss touching the floor but can easily be clearanced with a hammer😁
Before
After
Also got the reducer for the air filter.
The truck intakes ar 4" OD. the truck MAF is 3.8“. Intakehoses.com had the right reducer and shipped it fast.
Tomorrow I'll add fluids and start the beast.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Had to modify the cross member a little to get the t case/skid/floor clearance all lined up.
I filled the trans and engine with oil and hooked the battery up to see if it would crank. I disconnected the coil wires to just get some oil circulation.
Cranks great, no fuel pressure. Crawled under it and it was leaking at the frame rail. After looking close, this fitting is the wrong size.
I ordered two 3/8 fittings. The GM rail is 3/8 but the Jeep rail is 5/16.
Anyone have a local source for AN fittings?
I filled the trans and engine with oil and hooked the battery up to see if it would crank. I disconnected the coil wires to just get some oil circulation.
Cranks great, no fuel pressure. Crawled under it and it was leaking at the frame rail. After looking close, this fitting is the wrong size.
I ordered two 3/8 fittings. The GM rail is 3/8 but the Jeep rail is 5/16.
Anyone have a local source for AN fittings?
Last edited:
Pile of parts
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan
AN fittings are just JIC (37° flare). AN are said to be produced with tighter tolerances but JIC will work just fine. We sell them at my work but the completion (Eric's/Evco) is probably closer to you since we only have a store in Salt Lake.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
I got all my fittings on Amazon. For my original setup, I used the Jeep fuel line as the return and ran a 3/8 stainless braided line for the supply.
DaveB
Long Jeep Fan
- Location
- Holladay, Utah
I saw this in one of your earlier posts:
"I'm powering the fuse block with the Asd shut down relay. It's 20a and was used by the Jeep to power the coils and injectors. "
The Jeep powered 6 injectors and one coil. With the LS you have 8 injectors and 8 coils which will draw a lot more current. You may have issues with feeding all of it with one 20A fuse. On mine I'm going to split the injectors and coils into banks and power them with separate fuses from an ignition source that can handle much more draw.
"I'm powering the fuse block with the Asd shut down relay. It's 20a and was used by the Jeep to power the coils and injectors. "
The Jeep powered 6 injectors and one coil. With the LS you have 8 injectors and 8 coils which will draw a lot more current. You may have issues with feeding all of it with one 20A fuse. On mine I'm going to split the injectors and coils into banks and power them with separate fuses from an ignition source that can handle much more draw.
Jinx
when in doubt, upgrade!
- Location
- So Jordan, Utah
Good advice from a EE.<— EE = guy who is good with electricity 😎
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Not bad advice. I'll have to look through my wiring again, I originally planned to power a relay with the ASD that would power the aux fuses. I switched gears a little in the middle.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Oh, and it started!
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Sorry for the teaser.
I got the correct fuel line fitting installed and have fuel pressure in the 50's with no leaks at key on.
Ive been fighting the transfer case leaking.
First was between the ring and the case, I figured my budget gasket didn't work so I tried rtv. That leaked like there was a hole drilled in the case and the transmission side was now leaking too.
Yesterday I pulled it apart and I think it was leaking around the studs and the empty holes for clocking 20 and 30 degrees. I picked up some set screws to fill the holes and sealed everything threaded into the ring with rtv. It appeared to be holding after a couple hours so I tied the ground from the battery to the frame and turned it over a few times with coils unhooked to get oil circulation. Plugged them in and she fired. Ran for 3 seconds and shuts off. Rinse and repeat.
So I either have an issue or it needs the vats disabled. From what I've read this is exactly what vats does.
I got the correct fuel line fitting installed and have fuel pressure in the 50's with no leaks at key on.
Ive been fighting the transfer case leaking.
First was between the ring and the case, I figured my budget gasket didn't work so I tried rtv. That leaked like there was a hole drilled in the case and the transmission side was now leaking too.
Yesterday I pulled it apart and I think it was leaking around the studs and the empty holes for clocking 20 and 30 degrees. I picked up some set screws to fill the holes and sealed everything threaded into the ring with rtv. It appeared to be holding after a couple hours so I tied the ground from the battery to the frame and turned it over a few times with coils unhooked to get oil circulation. Plugged them in and she fired. Ran for 3 seconds and shuts off. Rinse and repeat.
So I either have an issue or it needs the vats disabled. From what I've read this is exactly what vats does.