- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Wanna haul an exhaust system back for me? I can meet you at a freeway exit easily. 2600 s in Bountiful or 3300 S on Monday (possibly/may still be working from home?)
Jeep LS swap for the LJ
- Thread starter glockman
- Start date
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Dang, I need to check this thread more often. I got off work for the weekend and actually started working and forgot about the internet. lol. The new shaft arrived yesterday. We are going camping this week so it's on hold while I unwinterize my trailer and work on getting bikes ready. Hopefully it all goes together smoothly after we get back.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I got my other list of stuff done so I dug into the T case. First thing I noticed is there is a bearing in the output side of the input shaft that the nose of the output shaft (SYE shaft) rides in. Well my shiny new input was missing that. So I tried to press the old one out of my spare 27 spline input with the wrong gear tooth pattern. That didn't work because it basically fell out when I put slight pressure on it 
small victories.
I used a socket to hand press it into the new input and started to reassemble the T case. I got everything up to the rear cover and oil pump and noticed this.
You can see there is a step machined in the shaft that looks like the reluctor wheel for the VSS should butt up to. Well mine wasn't. I tried dry assembly several times and didn't get a fit I was comfortable with. It looked like the reluctor would rub the oil pump.
So I contacted JB conversions and got on the LS Swapped Wranglers FB page. Quickly had an answer.
The rear or output shaft "floats" front to back until you tighten the nut on the flange. That nut puts tension on output shaft and pulls it back to align with the oil pump and the reluctor is sandwiched between the rear output housing bearing and the step in the output shaft.
I'll have to finish assembly when I get back from camping.
small victories.I used a socket to hand press it into the new input and started to reassemble the T case. I got everything up to the rear cover and oil pump and noticed this.
You can see there is a step machined in the shaft that looks like the reluctor wheel for the VSS should butt up to. Well mine wasn't. I tried dry assembly several times and didn't get a fit I was comfortable with. It looked like the reluctor would rub the oil pump.
So I contacted JB conversions and got on the LS Swapped Wranglers FB page. Quickly had an answer.
The rear or output shaft "floats" front to back until you tighten the nut on the flange. That nut puts tension on output shaft and pulls it back to align with the oil pump and the reluctor is sandwiched between the rear output housing bearing and the step in the output shaft.
I'll have to finish assembly when I get back from camping.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Out of the garage under its own power. I can't figure out how to post the video.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
AWESOME!!!
Congrats on the completion.
Now add fuel, enjoy, repeat......
Mike
Congrats on the completion.
Now add fuel, enjoy, repeat......
Mike
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Thanks guys. I dropped it off at Ricks mufflers to get the exhaust done. I'm excited to get it back and actually drive it.
Jinx
when in doubt, upgrade!
- Location
- So Jordan, Utah
This has been awesome to follow. Thanks for sharing your build.
Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
Hell yeah buddy! Great job diving right into it and making it look easy
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I still don't have any gauges working. I found some info that the ASD relay has an output that enables the PCI bus for the gauges. Since I used that to power my mini fuse panel (that I will soon convert to triggering a 40A relay to power the fuse panel, Thanks Dave) I decided to look into that.
When I wired it, I just tied the ASD ground to a known ground in the power distribution block and cut the output wire, then tied into it there. The output goes to C3 on the PCM pins 19 and 28. These were now just loose in the harness. I tied them back to a known good ignition + and still no gauges. I'll dig in more once it comes back from the shop. Just wanted to include the info for reference.
When I wired it, I just tied the ASD ground to a known ground in the power distribution block and cut the output wire, then tied into it there. The output goes to C3 on the PCM pins 19 and 28. These were now just loose in the harness. I tied them back to a known good ignition + and still no gauges. I'll dig in more once it comes back from the shop. Just wanted to include the info for reference.
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
I think you said a few pages back you used the Novak emulator for the gauges. As I recall, when I used one it didn't work the first time around. The second time they sent me the emulator for the later model TJ's. Third time was a charm and my gauges worked. Maybe it was just the tach though. Can't remember.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I know the Oil pressure requires a tach signal but I don't thing all the other gauges require it. All my gauges are dead, but they all sweep when performing the cluster diag. I'm pretty sure I have killed a power wire to the PCI bus. Not a bad thought though. I'll throw the meter on the output from the emulator and see if it is putting out any signal and if it varies with RPM.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Got the Jeep back from Ricks muffler on Friday.
Jesse did a great job stuffing 10lbs in a 5lbs sack. I wanted to go from the driver's side manifold under the bell housing but there just wasn't enough room so he went around the oil pan. 2 1/2" to the cats on the passenger side. Pre and post cat O2s into a Y pipe and 3" to the Magna flow. It's quite but throaty. I wasn't able to fit the corvette cats either so I went with aftermarket, hopefully they last longer than Dave's. Hard to get a good pic.
He tucked the tail pipe really nicely. Don't mind that rust. The front has gotten all the love lately.
Drove it from orem to pg with no O2s and it was pretty fun.
Put O2s in it which was interesting. Not much room. Got the O2 harnesses shortened and routed. Then took it out for a few rips.
It wasn't running very well but still put a smile on my face and my wife was absolutely giddy.
Still no gauges so I plugged in my obd2 and pulled up the stats on torque on my phone.
Coolant was at 225. Matt should have set my fan to turn on at 210 but it wasn't running.
Checked the relay and the wiring and all looked good. Then I checked the receipt and either I told him wrong or he heard me wrong. He set it up for C2 pin 42 instead of C1. So I cleared the codes, hard wired the fan on and took it for a spin. Coolant stayed below 200 and it was purring.
I'll call Matt and see if we can correct the fan programming.
I got the shifter to match the Jeep gates pretty well but time will tell. I'm sure I'll go to an aftermarket shifter eventually.
More to come on the gauges once I dig into that.
Jesse did a great job stuffing 10lbs in a 5lbs sack. I wanted to go from the driver's side manifold under the bell housing but there just wasn't enough room so he went around the oil pan. 2 1/2" to the cats on the passenger side. Pre and post cat O2s into a Y pipe and 3" to the Magna flow. It's quite but throaty. I wasn't able to fit the corvette cats either so I went with aftermarket, hopefully they last longer than Dave's. Hard to get a good pic.
He tucked the tail pipe really nicely. Don't mind that rust. The front has gotten all the love lately.
Drove it from orem to pg with no O2s and it was pretty fun.
Put O2s in it which was interesting. Not much room. Got the O2 harnesses shortened and routed. Then took it out for a few rips.
It wasn't running very well but still put a smile on my face and my wife was absolutely giddy.
Still no gauges so I plugged in my obd2 and pulled up the stats on torque on my phone.
Coolant was at 225. Matt should have set my fan to turn on at 210 but it wasn't running.
Checked the relay and the wiring and all looked good. Then I checked the receipt and either I told him wrong or he heard me wrong. He set it up for C2 pin 42 instead of C1. So I cleared the codes, hard wired the fan on and took it for a spin. Coolant stayed below 200 and it was purring.
I'll call Matt and see if we can correct the fan programming.
I got the shifter to match the Jeep gates pretty well but time will tell. I'm sure I'll go to an aftermarket shifter eventually.
More to come on the gauges once I dig into that.
Tonkaman
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West Jordan
Hell yeah! Good for you
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
That looks very similar to what Jesse did on mine originally. Those pics are cool and all, but none of them have any sound
Looks killer though. Stoked for you. Hopefully one day I'll get my dumpster back together.
Looks killer though. Stoked for you. Hopefully one day I'll get my dumpster back together.
DaveB
Long Jeep Fan
- Location
- Holladay, Utah
Did you have to change the drivers side manifold to a center dump ?
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Nope he turned it forward. A center would probably fit better and may have given me room to run it under the bell housing. I'll get some pics of it tonight.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Ricks Muffler has been doing super clean exhaust work for YEARS, I had them do some work long ago and was way impressed. Good choice for the exhaust work, a LS in a TJ/LJ makes for some thinking when it comes to routing the pipes!
DaveB
Long Jeep Fan
- Location
- Holladay, Utah
You should see what I've had to do to clear the LS exhaust in my CJ8 with 4 link long arms. Just got my front driveline back from the shop and will have to modify things a bit more.