Nate’s longterm tiny shop build
- Thread starter N-Smooth
- Start date
anderson750
I'm working on it Rose
- Location
- Price, Utah
that seems kind of high. When I had the stucco done on my garage……28x50 with roughly 12 foot walls above the foundation and big gable ends since I have an 8/12 pitch if I remember correctly , I also had my 12x14 shed stuccoed and then underside of my deck patio done and I paid 22k for all of that.
I thought I queued your comment up in replies but apparently not, my bad. Good info on what the inspector actually wanted to check and the inspection process. I don’t think I even have a need for a 3-way switch and it all seems pretty simple but I’ll draw it all out tomorrow and review it with my friend.
Good point. If I would’ve had a 14ff or two sitting on my sideyard I would’ve gotten a cheaper estimate for sure!
It sure seems freaking expensive, right?!?! I could have millions and I’m pretty sure $10k for stucco will always seem like a lot of money to me. It honestly has me wondering if I want to engage the HOA about this tidbit in the CC&R’s:
“The colors and materials for an Accessory Structure must be substantially similar to the colors and materials of the primary residence.”
So can we do stucco and thin brick on the front of the shop but then hardy board on the sides and back? My next-door neighbor’s house (the same model as mine) has hardy board on it. The problem is I got kind of a broad “Your request has been approved” response for the shop when the HOA was just formed and I don’t know if I want to kick the hornets nest.
On a serious note though, in my Ag AC electrical lab at USU, the 3 way switch was the most failed/frustrating practical exercise. There are a ton of "wrong" ways to wire that circuit. Almost all of them however will turn on and off the light/fan/ whatever. I hated that week, Dr. Miller loved every minute of it. After he checked out circuit and crushed our souls, he would walk around the lab laughing at us. Everyone was scrambling, trying to figure out what we did wrong on our practice circuits and self drawn schematics. If a team (2 people), took more than two attempts he'd drop a hint or point at a connection, smile, then walk away again.
My house has like 4 different circuits with 3-way switches and I can confirm, they’re magic. The times when I’ve been unlucky enough to mess with them I’ve literally just sat and stared at everything and even drawn it out on paper. My modifications have always worked though and no fires, yet.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I didn't think you were being that guy. I'm super cheap, when you posted that your shop bids I choked. I built my 25x40 almost entirely by myself and I'm about $25k into it.
My guess is you'll be $1500ish for just materials depending on how many lights and outlets you do.
Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
You aren't alone in your feeling of being taken advantage of and that pricing is ridiculous. With the add-on and kitchen I have seriously questioned all trades. I get an hourly rate based on their experience and education but 8/10 times they send a grunt that barely knows what they are doing and don't seem to have the precaution or care for anything outside their own job.
Since I went through a GC I didn't have much say but the contract was set up that I pay the "invoice" from the sub with a small markup. Drywall costed over $1k over the bid because we had them drywall 1 section of wall they didn't originally quote. 4.sheets of drywall on a newly framed wall that they already would have had to mud the ceiling corner on because the ceiling was pulled down on that section. They came to the house 6 times all for the longest stint of 6 hours....most were 2-3. So they already were mudding the hardest part of the wall (corner) the jov added 2 seams and another vertical corner and that raised the cost by 25%....so I do believe they fully take advantage of people.
Our plumbing rough in which was super easy was $1500. It took him less then 2 hours and all materials would've cost less than $200. Then he charged another $750 for finish. I feel a little more comfortable with that but again basically 1.5 hours and material was $100. The only u known variable was that he supplied a disposal because we forget to mention we saved our old one.
Electrical ended up around $5k. He did an overall decent job and seemed the most responsible....but even his guys drilled holes incorrectly, ran things to the wrong location, etc.
It is very frustrating seeing some of the small jobs cost what equates to almost $400/hour for labor.
Since I went through a GC I didn't have much say but the contract was set up that I pay the "invoice" from the sub with a small markup. Drywall costed over $1k over the bid because we had them drywall 1 section of wall they didn't originally quote. 4.sheets of drywall on a newly framed wall that they already would have had to mud the ceiling corner on because the ceiling was pulled down on that section. They came to the house 6 times all for the longest stint of 6 hours....most were 2-3. So they already were mudding the hardest part of the wall (corner) the jov added 2 seams and another vertical corner and that raised the cost by 25%....so I do believe they fully take advantage of people.
Our plumbing rough in which was super easy was $1500. It took him less then 2 hours and all materials would've cost less than $200. Then he charged another $750 for finish. I feel a little more comfortable with that but again basically 1.5 hours and material was $100. The only u known variable was that he supplied a disposal because we forget to mention we saved our old one.
Electrical ended up around $5k. He did an overall decent job and seemed the most responsible....but even his guys drilled holes incorrectly, ran things to the wrong location, etc.
It is very frustrating seeing some of the small jobs cost what equates to almost $400/hour for labor.
Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
The contractor also charged me $1500 for gravel back fill that 3/4 of didn't get used. I asked for a credit and he said $600. So $900 for what amounted to less then a yd of backfill. I wouldn't think much of it except I had just had 4yds of backfill gravel (unwashed 3/4+ or whatever) delivered for the retaining wall for $260.
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Wire price is really expensive, especially the big stuff feeding the box and any 220 runs. I paid a ME that works on the side $30/hr plus materials. He did a great job and was in and out. I live in kaysville and likes to stay close to home so I highly doubt he will head by out to you
I had to stop asking my neighbor about his tile work because it was driving me crazy. Same thing you guys are all mentioning. Just a ridiculous amount of money for stuff as simple as a backsplash or a little more work with a bathroom. My brother is refreshing his kitchen and asked for this guys number because he didn't necessarily want to do the splash himself. I gave it to him but figured the $ was going to be way too high to not make it worth doing himself.
My parents got a 9k quote to paint an entry, small living room, and an okay size great room and kitchen. Nine thousand dollars! I told them I'd do it in a weekend for dinner while I was there.
My parents got a 9k quote to paint an entry, small living room, and an okay size great room and kitchen. Nine thousand dollars! I told them I'd do it in a weekend for dinner while I was there.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
I think there are a few things driving this market. A every gen X and millennial decided that manual labor was below them. Then the 2008 crash happened and a large number of contractors got out and refused to get back into such a volatile industry. I think a lot of this is make as much as you can, while you can, because the end is near. The shortage of skilled trades also leads to people giving stupid high bids on jobs they don't want. I don't get that but I hear it from a lot of people I know who work trades, so it seems like a common thing.
This is exactly the stuff I was hoping to hear from you guys. It’s a strange world out there right now with contractors just throwing out numbers and seeing if people will bite. The worst thing we can say is no, right?
As far as the wire goes, a few sparkies I’ve talked to said #2 AL would be great from the house to the shop. Isn’t that just this wire that’s $.58 a foot?
As far as the wire goes, a few sparkies I’ve talked to said #2 AL would be great from the house to the shop. Isn’t that just this wire that’s $.58 a foot?
Pike2350
Registered User
- Location
- Salt Lake City
You will actually want the 2/0
It will handle 150 amps vs the 100amps or so of the 2awg you posted
Southwire (By-the-Foot) 2/0 Black Stranded AL USE-2 Cable 27285699 - The Home Depot
Beef up your network standards with the help of this excellent Southwire Stranded AL USE.
www.homedepot.com
It will handle 150 amps vs the 100amps or so of the 2awg you posted
That’s the crap I was looking for, I must’ve had “available in store today” selected. Still, $1.05/ft isn’t that bad.You will actually want the 2/0
Southwire (By-the-Foot) 2/0 Black Stranded AL USE-2 Cable 27285699 - The Home Depot
Beef up your network standards with the help of this excellent Southwire Stranded AL USE.www.homedepot.com
It will handle 150 amps vs the 100amps or so of the 2awg you posted
My RMP sparky friend came over today and went through my plans with me. I guess he used to do from the “street” to houses so it’s a little different but he still has a great knowledge base. He called another residential sparky friend for advice on a couple things and got me some good direction.
I got the 6th light up last night and ordered 2 more because I definitely want one over where the bench will be but I’m pleased. My wife took the second pic from our room lol it looks cool.
I got the 6th light up last night and ordered 2 more because I definitely want one over where the bench will be but I’m pleased. My wife took the second pic from our room lol it looks cool.
Are you doing something like a shut off panel outside that then ties into a sub panel inside the garage or are you going straight to the sub panel? Where is the box on the house that you have to run that line from? How far will that run have to go?
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Definitely a grow operation in there. I’m calling the feds.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Growing a buggy, hopefully!