Jeep Need an answer about a Dana 30 front on a 2002 Wrangler...

Toad

Well-Known Member
Location
Millville(logan)
Its got 235k on the chassis. Im guessing it comes with the bald bfgs and not the Nittos that are in 1 pic. Axles are probably smiling at you. It has probably been beat.
 

Troop92

Well-Known Member
Location
Layton, UT
Haha. Good sleuthing, turns out it is. I'm not sure of all the details, but it sounds like there's more to the deal than I know about? It's his call, and if we get there and it sucks, we hit up the best burger joint in Denver, eat well, and head home.

Besides, Saturday is my wife's baby shower day with her gfs. Not being anywhere near that crazy. :D
 

Troop92

Well-Known Member
Location
Layton, UT
a quick search on KSL brought up several TJs that are less than $7000 and look waaay better than the one in the craigslist ad if that is the one you are going to see.

He isn't looking for a nice one, one with lower miles, or for a nice "starting point"... He's wanting something that's built a little, with things like the Dana44 rear, lift, bumpers, winch, lights, 40k engine, etc that this one has. He's looking for a rig that is in pretty good shape, but not nice enough that he feels bad about modding/wheeling it.

Obviously no offense to you Corbin, yours is a great looking rig (and one I'd buy if in a position to), but he doesn't want the outlay of a rig AND all the stuff on top of it....
 
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Bob B

Registered User
SO.... just my opinion here, but the front axle gears are toast. He is giving you new gears and a install kit. Pull the drive shaft, pull the diff cover and scoop out any chunks, put cover back on, fill with oil and drive it. Whats gonna happen... messed up bearings, screwed up gears, take out a seal.... you already have all the replacement parts..so no big deal.


Doesnt look like the greatest deal....blah blah, but its his call.
I would worry about pulling the inner shafts out. If that axle hasnt been apart for awhile and its rusty, I know I have broken off plenty of those stupid 12 point, 13mm bolts that hold the unibearing on... break one of those and you'll be getting a hotel or spending a bunch of money on new one.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
SO.... just my opinion here, but the front axle gears are toast. He is giving you new gears and a install kit. Pull the drive shaft, pull the diff cover and scoop out any chunks, put cover back on, fill with oil and drive it. Whats gonna happen... messed up bearings, screwed up gears, take out a seal.... you already have all the replacement parts..so no big deal.


Doesnt look like the greatest deal....blah blah, but its his call.
I would worry about pulling the inner shafts out. If that axle hasnt been apart for awhile and its rusty, I know I have broken off plenty of those stupid 12 point, 13mm bolts that hold the unibearing on... break one of those and you'll be getting a hotel or spending a bunch of money on new one.


haha, I was sitting here reading this thread thinking the exact same thing. Get the pieces out of the diff, re-fill, and drive it home. So what if he screws up the gears more. Maybe take a couple bottles of fluid to rinse and repeat midway if necessary.
 

Bob B

Registered User
Only because pulling the inners is WAY easier and less messy than opening the pumpkin in a parking lot, scrapping a stupid gasket off, waiting for RTV to dry... etc...


Way easier? I dont think so.. you'll need a jack, multiple tools for rusted bolts, you have to drain the oil anyway or its gonna run down the tubes and cover the whole jeep, and you could still break parts that will strand you.

Take a tube of right stuff (which I would just put on, and run... no waiting for it to dry) couple jugs o diff fluid, couple shop towels, a gallon jug, a hammer, razor blade, 13 mm socket and wrench and a cresent wrench for the fill plug. ( I would say screw it and leave the d-shaft in it)

Just my .02
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
If you have a free rental, why not rent a truck then rent a trailer for $50-100 and not worry about bringing any tools. :D
 

RNandKT

If the Chick Digs it ....
Location
Lehi, UT
Its got 235k on the chassis. Im guessing it comes with the bald bfgs and not the Nittos that are in 1 pic. Axles are probably smiling at you. It has probably been beat.

I am going to second this. Just because the motor has been replaced ... odds are with those kind of miles that thing will nickel and dime you to death. Worn out spindles, ujoints, transfer case chain stretched, tranny is probably due for a rebuild, axle seals all shot, and so on. Not to mention it looks pretty abused. BAD BAD idea if you ask me. Lots better options for TJ's. Any time you see those kind of miles, the rig leaves you stranded every time you go out (something else always breaking).

Auto's are less common, but be patient and you will find a deal on one locally, and usually it is the people who don't lift their Jeep that bought the auto's when they were new, so if you find a stock one, it's a lot cheaper to throw a lift on and lot less likely to be beat.
 

flexyfool

GDW
Location
Boise, Idaho
haha, I was sitting here reading this thread thinking the exact same thing. Get the pieces out of the diff, re-fill, and drive it home. So what if he screws up the gears more. Maybe take a couple bottles of fluid to rinse and repeat midway if necessary.

A few months ago a guy I was wheeling with broke a couple teeth off the 44 in his JK. He tried to limp it back to the trailers. He got about 1/4 mile on the pavement and the axle seized up on him. Hate to think what would happen if this happened at speed.
 

flexyfool

GDW
Location
Boise, Idaho

Troop92

Well-Known Member
Location
Layton, UT
A few months ago a guy I was wheeling with broke a couple teeth off the 44 in his JK. He tried to limp it back to the trailers. He got about 1/4 mile on the pavement and the axle seized up on him. Hate to think what would happen if this happened at speed.

We're going to be very careful and take every reasonable precaution. If we get it, we'll pull the inners. Have some outers standing by so we don't have to mess with U-Joints. Or if we do, we'll cut the joints and replace later.

I am going to second this. Just because the motor has been replaced ... odds are with those kind of miles that thing will nickel and dime you to death. Worn out spindles, ujoints, transfer case chain stretched, tranny is probably due for a rebuild, axle seals all shot, and so on. Not to mention it looks pretty abused. BAD BAD idea if you ask me. Lots better options for TJ's. Any time you see those kind of miles, the rig leaves you stranded every time you go out (something else always breaking).

Auto's are less common, but be patient and you will find a deal on one locally, and usually it is the people who don't lift their Jeep that bought the auto's when they were new, so if you find a stock one, it's a lot cheaper to throw a lift on and lot less likely to be beat.

This is his deal. He has this thread saved and he's looking at it for all the input and weighing things. At this point we're going, no harm in looking.

I really do appreciate all the comments, everyone.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Way easier? I dont think so.. you'll need a jack, multiple tools for rusted bolts, you have to drain the oil anyway or its gonna run down the tubes and cover the whole jeep, and you could still break parts that will strand you.

Take a tube of right stuff (which I would just put on, and run... no waiting for it to dry) couple jugs o diff fluid, couple shop towels, a gallon jug, a hammer, razor blade, 13 mm socket and wrench and a cresent wrench for the fill plug. ( I would say screw it and leave the d-shaft in it)

Just my .02


Not that your idea wouldn't work (or take the same amount of time), but I wouldn't risk it for the reason flexyfool listed below.
And just personal preference: I hate cleaning up burnt gear lube, and scraping gaskets in a parking lot, you get that stink all over the place.

Pulling the inners takes 3 tools:

1. A socket wrench with 3 attachments: 1 for the lug nuts, 1 for the caliper bolts, 1 for the unit bearings.
2. A flathead screw driver to remove the c-clips on the u-joint caps and help get the caliper back over the rotor, or wedge the unit bearing out.
(I concede that sometimes it's a pain to separate the unit bearing from the outer knuckle, if it's never been separated. A sledge will get it done).
3. 3 lb sledge-hammer to pop out the u-joints and smack the unit bearing.

Stuff a rag in each axle tube.

If you don't have a Jack and a socket for lug nuts you're SOL if you get a flat anyways, so it's smart to have those tools in any vehicle.


A few months ago a guy I was wheeling with broke a couple teeth off the 44 in his JK. He tried to limp it back to the trailers. He got about 1/4 mile on the pavement and the axle seized up on him. Hate to think what would happen if this happened at speed.

Absolutely. If it's got a few busted teeth, what's to say it won't bust off a few more at speed? Or the Frag in the diff hasn't already cooked the carrier or pinion bearings.
I've seen carrier bearings burnt up... not pretty.

Do it. Sounds like an adventure.
 
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flexyfool

GDW
Location
Boise, Idaho
I'm mostly playing devil's advocate. You have the trip planned out well, and the rig might be a great deal.

Now that you've told us about the adventure, we expect a rolling commentary so we can cheer you on in real time! :)
 

Troop92

Well-Known Member
Location
Layton, UT
I'm mostly playing devil's advocate. You have the trip planned out well, and the rig might be a great deal.

Now that you've told us about the adventure, we expect a rolling commentary so we can cheer you on in real time! :)

Haha, for sure. Make it a road trip/rig-finding travel log! I'll upload riveting pictures of all the interesting things Wyoming has to offer as we drive through... I will post updates, and hopefully none will be a plea for help from the middle of nowhere. :rofl:
 
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