Land Rover Project: Sexy Back: Love is in the Eye of the beholder.

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
So, any electrical geniuses on here?

Here is what I want to do. The OM617 is turned off by vacuum. I would like to have the vacuum pump turn on for about 20 seconds after I turn off the ignition switch and apply vacuum to the injection pump of the OM617. I guess there is probably a relay out there that could do this. The power on my trucks accessories turns off after I open the door. If I could do something similar, that switches on after the ignition is shut off. Any ideas?

So, does the injection pump shut off when vacuum is applied, or when vacuum is removed? I'd assume it shuts off when the vacuum is removed...? If this is the case, what will leaving the vacuum pump energized accomplish for you? Do you want the engine to run for 20 seconds after you turn the key off?

I think a time-delay relay could accomplish what you're asking for, but I'm not sure if you can find one that will work for a 20 second delay. More components may be required for a delay that long:
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/digital/chpt-5/time-delay-relays/

Any reason you can't just tie the v-pump into power (via a simple SPST relay) that is on the door-open-delay accessory circuit?
 

sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
Replacing the rear upper tail gate. This one is a bit rusty. But at least I can weld it back together.

I finally used my new RME stickers!

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sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
Also started another important part of the swap. A different transfercase. The Borg Warner transfercase is garbage. This is the second one it's had. The viscous coupler is seized up and makes turning in a full time four wheel truck really bad.

So I bought a parts Disco with a good LT230 transfercase that has a center locking diff for off road. And an open diff for on road. It works in high or low range. The LT230 has lower gearing I high range and low range.

The easy part is done. Now I need to remove a cross member, unbolt the transmission from the engine, unbolt driveshafts, drain fluids and lower it all out from below.
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sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
I separated the old broken transfer case for the new one. I resealed the new one and cleaned it lovingly. Then sprayed it lovingly with some paint.

I put new seals in the transmission as well and painted it as well.

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Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
The Borg Warner transfercase is garbage. This is the second one it's had. The viscous coupler is seized up and makes turning in a full time four wheel truck really bad.

So I bought a parts Disco with a good LT230 transfercase that has a center locking diff for off road. [/IMG]

Do all RR Classics have the BW t-case? And most D1's had the LT230 correct?


Just curious... I've wanted a RR for awhile now :guilty:


Love the updates! :cool:
 

sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
The Range Rover classics had the LT230 case up until 1989. Then Land Rover swapped it out for the BW case because the rich people complained the LT230 gear driven case was too noisy.

The BW is chain driven and quieter. But not as strong as the LT230.

All discos up to 1999 had the locking shifter linkage. After that you had to find an old disco to add the option.

It's a bolt in swap.

I have a 1987 in my garage I'm working on restoring with 46K miles. And another 1994 Long Wheel Base with 135 K. My buddy and I restore them and then resell them on eBay.


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sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
Got a winch bumper for my classic. It's a rovertym. I think they are out of business now. I love KSL.

Painted, installed, lights mounted, winch mounted. Just need to wire it all up.

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Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
I love the slow, methodical approach to this that you're taking. Bumper looks good. Do you have a date that you're shooting for to have this running?
 

sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
I have no idea. I just want to drive it before winter through Moab. Then put it away for winter.

This is the slowest build ever for me. Mostly due to my business which is fixing and restoring old land rovers. So this only gets better worked on when I have spare time. I'm trying to make it as good and perfect as I can.


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sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
One step closer to finishing the Mercedes diesel conversion on the Storm Trooper Range Rover Classic. Deleted the fuel pump and ran a new pick up hose down to the fuel. Now the stock fuel gauge will work good.

I just need to delete the stock gas fuel filter and remove the block in the fuel neck so I can fill it at the pump.

Got it all back in. Hooked up and ready for the fuel filter delete tomorrow. Then I can suck some fuel and prime the system.

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sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
Fuel system is finished today. Primed the engine. Just waiting on the slow as hell water jet cutter to get some starter parts done.

Wired the 9" LED lights.

Wired up the winch.

Once the starter is in and tested, I'll install the transmission and transfer case

Then I just need to wire up the glow plugs. If I can find a control box somewhere.


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sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
I'm finally putting the transmission and transfercase back in. I know, I'm slow.

I'm putting the adapters back in. I should be able to fire it up this week. Maybe drive it next week.

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sawtooth4x4

Totally Awesome
So i finally got this thing to smoke. unfortunately the starter is engaging, but it stays out because its getting bound up, I need to figure out a way to space it out more or turn it a hair. so its almost ready for me to stick the transmission back in and get it rolling coal.

Damn I can't believe i've been working on this thing for almost a year.
 
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