Toyota Project: TacoCart

[Coco]

The bigger hole is part of lubrication IIRR. The gear oil will 'share' between the cases (on Toyota cases, you usually do 2 qts rear case, 1 qt front case) but the fluid will go between the two cases.

RADesigns makes good product. He over engineers his product. I haven't ran that particular one before, but his shifters I have ran were really nicely done.

 

[I Lean]

I don't think you can seal that hole. The bearing on the input shaft is an "open" roller bearing, with no seal...so it can (will) leak gear oil through that bearing. Without the hole to drain the oil back into the case, you'll gradually fill the cavity forward, "losing" oil out of where you need it. So it won't prevent any leaks, as that cavity will be full of oil eventually.

 

[Herzog]

I don't think you can seal that hole. The bearing on the input shaft is an "open" roller bearing, with no seal...so it can (will) leak gear oil through that bearing. Without the hole to drain the oil back into the case, you'll gradually fill the cavity forward, "losing" oil out of where you need it. So it won't prevent any leaks, as that cavity will be full of oil eventually.

There's a tube with a seal that goes in there.
But - the shift rail area is open too and if oil jumps through there it wouldn't be able to get back through.
I guess I won't seal the hole for now and see. Pretty odd.

 

[Herzog]

The bigger hole is part of lubrication IIRR. The gear oil will 'share' between the cases (on Toyota cases, you usually do 2 qts rear case, 1 qt front case) but the fluid will go between the two cases.

This is on the transmission to crawlbox side. Doesn't seem like it should share oil.

 

[Spork]

This is on the transmission to crawlbox side. Doesn't seem like it should share oil.

with the Tacoma sealed it's just going into the void and draining the crawl box...

 

[Herzog]

Waiting on the dual shifter thingy so I decided to prepare the chain drive tcase. To do this, you have to cut off the little tab on the shift fork so it won't interfere with the dual shifter pin on the one side. You also have to remove the pill looking pin from the shifter rails.

Opening up the case drops the syncro keys, which there was nearly zero documentation online on how to get those suckers back in. After staring it over and moving parts around it finally became clear. It's best to remove the rail from the shift fork to get the collar lined up and to be able to get the fork on there as well. It was much easier to do it that way for me anyways. I also used grease to help keep the syncro keys from dropping back out while I lined up the collar.

Pics:

 

[Herzog]

The Radesign shift plate has shipped and is on it's way. I'm excited to build out something that will work in the oem shifters location, should be interesting and fun!

And we have a mated crawl box! Complete with the oldie shifter to bench shift test.

 

[Herzog]

So I wasn't gonna really take a ton of photos and document this thing but I think radesigns needs a shoutout. This is a nicely made piece and is gonna make my life a lot easier getting the shifters close to the stock cutout in the tunnel... (I hope, worse case scenario I just weld some levers to it hahaha)

I'm excited! Going to pick up some tiny heims and hardware tomorrow and hopefully get this mocked up before test fit this weekend.

 

[Kiel]

Rad is gonna be mad you have old man thumbs...everything else looks great

 

[Herzog]

These past few days have been slow. Trying to get the measurements and clearances right for the shifters takes more time than I care.

This is a test fit. I will be bending the 1/4 x 1" shifter handles to come out of the original shifter location, I still need to get the crawlbox shifter made too, but I'm not sure if it will sit in the middle of the two or in front of them. Whatever fits best I suppose.

After the shifters are done I'll be dropping it back down to seal up and do a proper bolt in... then I need to modify the belly pan (second tcase mount and lengthen 8 inches to protect the tcase. I'll likely have Tom Woods build a driveline for the rear but I think I'll make the front one with what I have.

 

[Herzog]

Alrighty, here's where I'm at after messing with it today. The shifters are bent into position and I think it's all gonna fit. It will be interesting figuring out a shifter boot for all this.

The middle shifter (crawl box) is gonna have to be taller than the others in order to not interfere with the shift knobs but it's looking like it's gonna work out.

 

[RockChucker]

NW Fab has a triple boot. I should have one somewhere, though I’m not sure where it is. If I can find it, you can have it.

 

[Herzog]

NW Fab has a triple boot. I should have one somewhere, though I’m not sure where it is. If I can find it, you can have it.

I appreciate that! However, I might have ordered one before I saw your post... so if the one I ordered doesn't fit then I will also have one to give away for free.

The crawl box shift lever wasn't quite working AND I completely forgot to put the damn spring and grease cover on it before welding it up. Perfect opportunity to make it more betterer. I also added the shift knobs to all the levers to check for clearance between them all. So far it's good. I'm really liking how it's turning out so far!

I need to make new shift rods as I want the tcase low and 4x shifters to sit a tad further forward and I want the rods to be stronger than normal mild round bar.

 

[Spork]

I like that a lot more than my 3 different holes in the floor for mine.

 

[Herzog]

I like that a lot more than my 3 different holes in the floor for mine.

I refused to give up an OEM beer holder.

 

[Herzog]

Modifying the old trail-gear skid plate. Have to add an extra mount and lengthen ~8" it to protect the tcase.

Crawlbox mount is done

 

[Herzog]

Paid once cried a few times, but totally worth it. Got the Tom Woods rear Tacoma carrier bearing delete driveline! This thing is huge beefs. Really glad to be rid of that rubber carrier bearing too. Worth it.

Got the extended protection plan going on with the belly pan too. Next is to cut out a section for the front driveline, which I was going to attempt to make, but I don't want to deal with vibes in 4x, so I'll be ordering another TomWoods shaft for up front. Luckily the front one is a tad less cash.

 

[RockChucker]

How long will that front shaft be?

 

[Herzog]

How long will that front shaft be?

36”

 

[Coco]

I call first rights of refusal if you ever sell this!😅

Seriously though, love the truck Shane, looks fantastic!