Project Toyota Tacoma Doublecab
- Thread starter lewis
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- build thread
I couldn't find info anywhere on how to replace the front nose seal or bearings on the TRD supercharger. So I thought I would share what I did and learned. I still don't know if what I did was correct but it seems to be working well so far.
First off I bought the nose seal from rolling performance.
http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm
I think if I had gotten the original seal that I would have not had the problems I encountered in replacing the seal. However now that I have gotten the problem I created fixed I think the seal will last longer. If I had to do it over again I would have tried to buy the factory seal in the first place. But when I had contacted Magnuson on several occasions, the wouldn't let me buy anything from them for my supercharger.
The rolling performance seal is a viton seal and is alot differnet than the factory seal. The factory seal is very stiff and the metal in it thicker.
Here is a pic with the RP installed.
So after I had the new seal installed I thought, I should have taken pics of that and posted it. Well after I got it all put together I went for a test drive and got about 5 miles from my house and after the engine got warmed up the metal in the engine expanded just enough that because I had the pulley too close to the housing, it began to rub. It sounded horrible, i thought I screwed something up real bad and the bearings were going to blow. I limped it home and after dissemble I found what had happened and decided to take some pics.
So first The oil needs to be taken out. I bought a baby nose sucker from walmart and put a piece of small hose on the end. After getting what I could out I put rags underneath the charger and removed the bolts. I but the pry bar between the nose cone and the spacer but left the aluminum spacer on.
When pulled apart you can see the coupler that may need replacing when the holes become wobbled out.
Next I got a punch and some blocks of wood. I removed the from clip and flipped it over. The seal has to come out the front. Gave to punch a few hits and pushed the seal out the front.
Once the seal is pushed out the housing can be flipped over and the shaft pushed out the opposite end like this except with no seal.
The shaft is then out. The bearings if need be can be replaced. The front of the housing can be pushed the rest the way out with a socket or something with similar shape. The bearing on the shaft can be hammered off using careful or creative techniques, otherwise a press would make things easier.
I used a seal driver to drive the new seal in. This is where I figured out I should have taken some measurements beforehand as I wasn't sure how far the shaft needed to be pushed out. I used a punch and pushed it against the seal where it felt snug.
When pushing the shaft back in do it in small increments checking on the condition of the seal. I didn't of this the first time I tried and it turned the lip of the seal inside out making it so I had to push the shaft back out, put the spring back on the seal and try again. This shows just as the shaft about to poke through the seal. I had to take a small pic and push part of the seal to get it around the shaft.
I put it all back together and this is what I found after the test drive.
You may not notice it but the mounting surface for the pulley isn't even poking out of the seal like it should be in this next pic.
The mounting side of the pulley to the shaft is the short side.
SO BEFORE GETTING STARTED. Measure the distance between the pulley and the housing (black part). I got a measurement from a buddy. There may be some preload for the bearings set by the spring between the bearings or maybe the spring is used to keep the shaft from sliding in. All the research I did, I couldn't find any info on it. The measurement I set mine at (the second time around) was 0.35 of an inch. The picture shows the pulley but it is currently set at 0.40 and was pushed in after the pic. It can be pushed after being installed but don't think it can be pushed back out without removing the nose.
I cleaned off all the housing bolts using a thread chaser and then used blue locktite. I used orange FIPG but read that Anaerobic Loctite should or could be used.
I filled mine with 4 oz. of GM supercharger oil. I called Magnuson and they told me to measure what I took out and I told them that my seal had leaked so I wasn't sure how much had come out. He then looked up the specs and said it takes 4 oz. and to go get it form GM.
First off I bought the nose seal from rolling performance.
http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm
I think if I had gotten the original seal that I would have not had the problems I encountered in replacing the seal. However now that I have gotten the problem I created fixed I think the seal will last longer. If I had to do it over again I would have tried to buy the factory seal in the first place. But when I had contacted Magnuson on several occasions, the wouldn't let me buy anything from them for my supercharger.
The rolling performance seal is a viton seal and is alot differnet than the factory seal. The factory seal is very stiff and the metal in it thicker.
Here is a pic with the RP installed.
So after I had the new seal installed I thought, I should have taken pics of that and posted it. Well after I got it all put together I went for a test drive and got about 5 miles from my house and after the engine got warmed up the metal in the engine expanded just enough that because I had the pulley too close to the housing, it began to rub. It sounded horrible, i thought I screwed something up real bad and the bearings were going to blow. I limped it home and after dissemble I found what had happened and decided to take some pics.
So first The oil needs to be taken out. I bought a baby nose sucker from walmart and put a piece of small hose on the end. After getting what I could out I put rags underneath the charger and removed the bolts. I but the pry bar between the nose cone and the spacer but left the aluminum spacer on.
When pulled apart you can see the coupler that may need replacing when the holes become wobbled out.
Next I got a punch and some blocks of wood. I removed the from clip and flipped it over. The seal has to come out the front. Gave to punch a few hits and pushed the seal out the front.
Once the seal is pushed out the housing can be flipped over and the shaft pushed out the opposite end like this except with no seal.
The shaft is then out. The bearings if need be can be replaced. The front of the housing can be pushed the rest the way out with a socket or something with similar shape. The bearing on the shaft can be hammered off using careful or creative techniques, otherwise a press would make things easier.
I used a seal driver to drive the new seal in. This is where I figured out I should have taken some measurements beforehand as I wasn't sure how far the shaft needed to be pushed out. I used a punch and pushed it against the seal where it felt snug.
When pushing the shaft back in do it in small increments checking on the condition of the seal. I didn't of this the first time I tried and it turned the lip of the seal inside out making it so I had to push the shaft back out, put the spring back on the seal and try again. This shows just as the shaft about to poke through the seal. I had to take a small pic and push part of the seal to get it around the shaft.
I put it all back together and this is what I found after the test drive.
You may not notice it but the mounting surface for the pulley isn't even poking out of the seal like it should be in this next pic.
The mounting side of the pulley to the shaft is the short side.
SO BEFORE GETTING STARTED. Measure the distance between the pulley and the housing (black part). I got a measurement from a buddy. There may be some preload for the bearings set by the spring between the bearings or maybe the spring is used to keep the shaft from sliding in. All the research I did, I couldn't find any info on it. The measurement I set mine at (the second time around) was 0.35 of an inch. The picture shows the pulley but it is currently set at 0.40 and was pushed in after the pic. It can be pushed after being installed but don't think it can be pushed back out without removing the nose.
I cleaned off all the housing bolts using a thread chaser and then used blue locktite. I used orange FIPG but read that Anaerobic Loctite should or could be used.
I filled mine with 4 oz. of GM supercharger oil. I called Magnuson and they told me to measure what I took out and I told them that my seal had leaked so I wasn't sure how much had come out. He then looked up the specs and said it takes 4 oz. and to go get it form GM.
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
Solid work Lewis, now your ready to do mine 
How long would you estimate start to finish?
FWIW Toyota has a SC oil change kit, I'm pretty sure it comes with the coupler too. Don't spy the seal though. I've got one on the shelf I can peek at.
http://www.trdparts4u.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-8080
How long would you estimate start to finish?
FWIW Toyota has a SC oil change kit, I'm pretty sure it comes with the coupler too. Don't spy the seal though. I've got one on the shelf I can peek at.
http://www.trdparts4u.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-8080
Lets get it done! Pm sent.
So if I were going to go through the trouble of using that oil kit, I would definitely change out the front seal while in there. For first time I bet it would take 30 minutes to an hour. Since I now have an idea of what to do, probably 20 minutes or less.
So if I were going to go through the trouble of using that oil kit, I would definitely change out the front seal while in there. For first time I bet it would take 30 minutes to an hour. Since I now have an idea of what to do, probably 20 minutes or less.