Rot Box’s Superduty

[SLC97SR5]

Congrats!
How many miles are on her?
If you're doing glow plugs you may as well get some new under valve cover harnesses.

We just finished up a set of GP's, injector cups, injectors, harnesses, turbo and a CNCFab fuel upgrade on my buddies '02.

Maybe do a cylinder contribution/buzz test to identify any weak injectors.

 

[Rot Box]

Thanks, she’s sitting right at 230k. It’s up there but hopefully I has a lot of life left. You’re right I should probably do the gaskets/harness as well (Especially since I’ll be into it that far anyway) who knows if or when it was done last

Buzz test is on the to do list as well. My friend has all the stuff needed to do it. I haven’t looked into it but he said it’s fairly easy to do. Did your friend do it as a preventative or an upgrade from stock?

 

[SLC97SR5]

Necessary upgrade.
When he first purchased the truck there were receipts for 1 injector replacement. The truck would not cold start without the block heater plugged in and he blew 3 coolant degas bottles while towing heavy.

We immediately replaced the up-pipes, turbo, added gauges and a PHP hydra. Then a front wheel bearing and a driveshaft carrier bearing.

He then got a John Woods 4r100. The beefier trans and tunes allowed him to push the truck harder and finally did in the 200k injectors.

When we opened it up we found 3 cracked cups and that explained the blown overflow bottles.

All has been well since and the truck rips with manageable egts.

 

[Rot Box]

Oye.... I’ve got four more wish me luck! Never ever ever ever run autolite glow plugs. I wonder where the rest of that tip went 😭

Wanted to use Motorcraft valve cover gaskets but they’re on backorder with no eta. Should I chance the dormans or reuse what I have?

 

[Rot Box]

All eight are out! The last one was scary I thought it was stuck for good.



So for those familiar with the valve cover gaskets on these check this out... it has the quarter ‘mod’ using half a quarter to hold the harness together. All fine and dandy until the plug fails completely and the quarter falls into the engine.. 😕 I hope they didn’t do that on the driver side because if it did it’s gone now.



You definitely get lots of surprises buying higher mileage used trucks!

 

[glockman]

Have you tried Tasca Ford or national white bear? They are who I buy most of my oem parts from wholesale.

 

[mbryson]

Have you tried Tasca Ford or national white bear? They are who I buy most of my oem parts from wholesale.

Looking up tailgates before I spend on a used unit.

 

[Rot Box]

Have you tried Tasca Ford or national white bear? They are who I buy most of my oem parts from wholesale.

I haven’t but I will thanks for the heads up!

 

[glockman]

Here is the link to white bear lake. That's a mouthful. I bought most my oem parts for my rebuild from them.

AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories | Auto Nation Ford White Bear Lake

Autonation Ford of White Bear Lake, selling Ford OEM, Motorcraft, and Ford Performance Parts at unbeatable prices.

parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com

 

[Rot Box]

Tinky is alive and running again! Cold start was a breeze with no smoke or hiccups. I ended up getting the Napa valve cover gaskets which weren’t cheap at $90 a piece... ugh. They seem to be good quality though and no need for any quarters jammed in the connectors lol.

Next up is getting this clutch petal figured out.

 

[Rot Box]

So here’s what I’m up against. The clutch petal on the truck originally comes with a nub (nub?) that sticks out for the rod end of the master cylinder to attach/snap on to. They use a thin crappy bushing between the rod end and the nub and that’s what pushes in on the master when you press the petal.

Unsure why however... mine does not have a nub mine has been drilled out for a bolt. The bolt is slightly loose with a nyloc on the end to keep it from coming completely loose. No bushing in sight.. sorry for the crappy picture The rod end is on the other side of the petal and I can’t get my camera in there. It works I guess but you can feel it bind up sometimes and the petal goes right to the floor before i’m able to shift.




I ordered a heim joint kit that is designed for the obs trucks. You basically cut the old rod end off and replace it with the heim joint. Problem is it only holds onto the the master cylinder shaft with a small set screw. On Superdutys the clutch petal has strong spring tension on the petal and I’m worried the heim joint won’t hold and it will pop off Does any of that make sense?




What if I weld the heim joint to actuator shaft? Or something... 🤔

 

[glockman]

I'd say, JB Weld or drill a divot for the set screw to go into, or full on weld it.

 

[I Lean]

Can you get a welder to it? Or can you remove the rod? That would be the permanent fix.
And it's "pedal". 😉

 

[TRD270]

And it's "pedal". 😉

🌺

 

[Rot Box]

Hahaha yeah pedal

 

[Rot Box]

So I’m thinking it would be difficult to weld in place and I’m worried about pulling the master out of the firewall because the plastic looking hose might kink/break.. drilling a divot might work best as is..

I’ll tear into it tomorrow and report back. Thanks for the help you guys!

 

[Rot Box]

Thinking I can make this work. Keep the existing bolt and have this bushing between the bolt and rod eye. Should work I think 🤔

 

[Rot Box]

Went for a sweet drive with Tinky today. Truck did something funny I pulled onto the highway and there was no turbo... it fell flat on its face so I pulled her over. I thought maybe an intercooler boot blew off at least that’s what it acted like. Anyway I found nothing out of the ordinary no codes no weird sounds nothing. jumped back on the highway and it ran fine?? Oye 🤔

Drove to the Oneida Narrows in southern Idaho. Pics don’t do it justice. Even spotted a cool van!

 

[Mouse]

The boost problem is a weird one. I've had intercooler boots pop off, but never no boost, shutdown, then boost. Wonder if it could be a stuck wastegate or intermittent electrical connection.

 

[Rot Box]

It’s weird for sure. It has done it three more times and this is what I’ve found. Cold engine not up to operating temp it’s a complete dog it takes several blocks to get up to speed. No boost from turbo (that I can tell without boost gauge) but it runs fine other than having no power. Once close to operating temp I get a hissing or air whooshing sound and shortly after the truck runs like nothing happened. It’s like a light switch and it just runs fine afterwards.

Searching around the powerstroke boards I’m kinda leaning towards it being an EBPV (exhaust back pressure valve) issue. There’s a valve in the exhaust just off the turbo that closes when the engine is cold to help the truck warm up by restricting the exhaust. I think mine might be staying on too long or something. I can disable it which I might try but it doesn’t look easy to do.. plenty of vehicles out there that don’t have an EBPV so I think I’d be fine without it?