Rot Box’s Superduty

jeeper

I live my life 1 dumpster at a time
Location
So Jo, Ut
I bought a 7.3 IDI for a KILLER deal one time because it had a rear main oil seal leak. It was coming out from the bell housing. After a week or two the oil leak went away and I had a fuel leak. a $20 part from the Pick-N-Pull had me up and running for years.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
It’s definitely oil but I checked all the suspect places for fuel leaks as well just in case. Everything has checked out good. Just the one plug on the oil rail (where the aftermarket crossover rail would go) has me wondering because it was slightly damp with oil. I’ll be able to watch that one when it’s running again it’s pretty easy to see with everything in place.

I’ll try to grab some pics if it’s still leaking after putting it back together.. I assume it will be I haven’t changed anything.
 

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
Sometimes fuel leaks in the valley pick up enough grime and oil to make it look like an oil leak. The pedestal, oil lines and HPOP are the most common culprits.

If you're having problems locating it, you might want to wash the engine and clean everything up and have another go at locating it.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Thanks again @Mouse !

Cleaned it up real nice and I’m still getting oil in the valley. The only place I could see that is suspect is this oil plug and it’s just damp no signs of leaking though at least not enough to worry me too much. Here’s a crappy pic of it anyway.

CBF914FC-4E27-4C39-A390-A61FC81A0D61.jpeg
 

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
You really should be able to find a wet spot. Oil leaks are easier to find since they are of a thicker viscosity. Fuel might not be as easy.

The passenger fuel line runs close to that plug and has been known to have a clamp chaff a hole in it. working on your turbo recently might have been enough to create more wear. I replaced that steel fuel line in my truck about 5 years ago, it had a decent chaff in it, but not all the way through.

 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
While it was apart I checked that fuel line really close. No signs of chafing but wow it doesn’t look fun to change if needed!

On an unrelated note do you think the oil rail crossover line would be worthwhile to have? Or just more opportunities to leak?

CA9E563C-2993-4991-B604-72D704A5067D.png
 

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
I'm running both the oil and fuel crossovers on my truck. The oil crossover made a huge difference in how the engine sounds and when running the truck on AutoEnginuity, the percels (cylinder contributions) are more even and smooth. I'd recommend it.

The only thing the fuel crossover helps with is bleeding air out (wouldn't recommend it).

If you have time to drop by sometime, I can show you the truck and how smooth it runs
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Not to make light of your pain, but I came across this a while back and it seems appropriate right now haha. 7.3's are great, but I have a couple buddies that have/have had them and they have dealt with some oil leaks.

 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
So here’s what I did. There’s nothing to keep the oring from squishing out on these plugs and the torque is so light on them that I worry about it blowing again.

The hydraulic shop here in town recommended this washer—should work pretty good I think!
E822C2B1-9F32-4705-BA97-B5E53875D9D2.jpeg
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Had a great weekend at the Wyoming badlands. Right around 300 miles round trip I didn’t get a whole lot of riding in but my daughter sure did. The fixer-upper Polaris did great she had a lot of fun on it.

The truck ran amazing. Logan canyon put it to the test and I could mash the petal and not put the egts past 1200* so that’s right where it needs to be. Boost peaks at 24psi… Oil leak is gone too which is nice!


EF4588A5-5364-4210-9AEE-86C2035E19CC.jpeg
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
So my AC doesn’t work and I’m hoping this fixes it. Someone (again farm truck) used butt connectors at some point to make the connection which resulted in burnt connections… oye…

Found a new pigtail and switch from Napa. It’s made in China so it should last a long time. We’ll see if the AC works after this repair!

B1901AFA-18DE-40CB-A842-56604F956A3F.jpegB1E389C6-9F65-4CB3-837B-D94793964638.jpeg
 

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
Good luck. The AC just went out on my superduty. Looks like the refrigerant leaked out of the manifold line (original '02 line). I've got new lines on order and a new drier ready to go in. Once parts are here I hope to get it squared away. No fun without AC in this heat!
 
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