Rot Box’s Superduty

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Still happy with the truck! Went ice fishing the other day and noticed a big hesitation while accelerating along with being low on power randomly. After a lot of research everything points to the cam position sensor (CPS). Funny thing is my wipers were on the intermittent setting which turns out can effect how the CPS acts.. weird. When these fail completely you’re dead in the water so I’m going to carry a spare.

I ordered a new CPS. This one is said to work great with the Superduty even though it’s only listed for OBS 7.3 trucks. Fingers crossed.. if it doesn’t cure the problem I’m not sure what else to do.


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Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
I have a few different CPS' that I've run in my truck. The best idle quality came from an Echlin unit, but it is extremely sensitive to electrical noise. I eliminated the wiper motor electrical noise by placing electric chokes on each of the wires in the cowl area. The Echlin CPS is still picking something up at higher RPM though. I like the OEM "black" or "gray" CPS. I use Autoenginuity cylinder contribution test to see which CPS is most efficient.

The one you list above should be a good one. I recommend carrying a spare in the glove box along with a 1/4" ratchet and deep well 10mm socket to change it.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Thanks @Mouse I was hoping you’d chime in 😎. I read up on the Echlin CPS and almost went that route.. still might with the added chokes. My truck has (from what I can tell) the recall grey sensor and it definitely has the rough idle associated with it. The one I ordered is said to clear that up and add a little more throttle response. We’ll see.
 
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Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
I'm running the gray one, but have the original (2002) black OEM in the glovebox.

When I'm not lazy, I'll continue to troubleshoot the Echlin. I really want to run it. The idle is VERY smooth. The engine is almost as quiet as a 6.7 (at idle only).
 

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
Be sure to check the caliper slide pins for binding and enough lubrication. On my 2 superduty pickups I've done annual inspections of those pins after finding one on my first F350 where the caliper was stuck, wearing out the pads in short order and destroying the rotor. I'd like to say I check them each year (but I've probably missed one or two along the way).
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Be sure to check the caliper slide pins for binding and enough lubrication.

Oh I did thanks for the heads up. One pin was seized solid and I ended up replacing the bracket altogether. Park brake pads were in rough shape as well but I’m going to run them. Not ready to pull the hubs to replace them I’ve been lazy lately..
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Just finished installing new front wheel bearings and brakes. My bearings were well used but still good. The brakes were not in great shape and of course I had another seized pin on the driver side caliper—weird haha.

I went with the 99.5 and newer bearings/brakes as they’re a slight upgrade in strength over the early 99 components mine had. They’re a lot more common which makes them easier to find and the price is a LOT less expensive.. win win 😎

So if anyone is reading this that has an E99 you need the wheel bearings and brake rotors from a 99.5 and newer to make it all work. Easy peasy.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Spent the last several days exploring Vernal with @Blauer Geist and our families. I have never been and we all had such a good time! Took the TrailManor out for the first time and it was great we love it! Truck made the drive pulling the trailer just fine aside from lightly cutting out on a steepish I80 climb heavy on the throttle for about five seconds—not sure what was going on there. I’ll have to get some pics together Vernal is amazing.

Spent today installing my new Soft Topper! Quality wise I like it but the look of it is still growing on me. It’ll be nice to have a place for the dogs to ride and it folds up for the times when I take the dirt bikes. I picked grey in hopes to match the stripe on the truck—they didn’t have purple 😣

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Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Had some gauges installed along with a 4” turbo back exhaust. Went with isspro gauges as I’ve had bad luck with auto meter pyrometers. Turns out my truck is very low on boost... struggles to make 10psi and the egts get hot quick 😳. I must have a leak in one of the intercooler boots or something. I think these gauges should come stock on diesel trucks as they tell you a LOT. I will say the 4” turbo back with no muffler sounds fantastic and there’s no drone so that’s good.

Shout out to Moonlight diesel here in Cache Valley for doing a very professional install!




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Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
Same gauges I've run in my truck for 12 years plus (no problems). Definitely sounds like a boost leak - its easy to build your own detector with PVC and use an air compressor to track it down. Lots of possible culprits. When you get the boost back, she'll run much happier too!
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
I ordered all the stuff to make my own leak detector should be here by the end of the week.

I pulled my intercooler pipes and looked for any rips in the boots and found none.. I suppose it could be my up pipes but I really hope not—that’s not an easy fix. No signs of leaking there that I can see. Kinda stumped at this point.

Pulled my camp trailer out west this weekend and it took some throttle work to keep it below 1250* and the boost was hovering around 6psi. It could hit 10 if I hammered on it but the egts would spike up quick doing that.

Truck was used for hauling horses with the programmer set on the highest setting (I put it back to stock when I bought it).. what have I got myself into?! haha. I don’t think any major damage has been done or I’d know about it by now.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I ordered all the stuff to make my own leak detector should be here by the end of the week.

I pulled my intercooler pipes and looked for any rips in the boots and found none.. I suppose it could be my up pipes but I really hope not—that’s not an easy fix. No signs of leaking there that I can see. Kinda stumped at this point.

Pulled my camp trailer out west this weekend and it took some throttle work to keep it below 1250* and the boost was hovering around 6psi. It could hit 10 if I hammered on it but the egts would spike up quick doing that.

Truck was used for hauling horses with the programmer set on the highest setting (I put it back to stock when I bought it).. what have I got myself into?! haha. I don’t think any major damage has been done or I’d know about it by now.


New turbo???
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
Hopefully tomorrow I can check for boost leaks with my home brew tester. I’ll post some pics as I do it as it’s probably a good idea for anyone with a 7.3 (or other diesels) to do.

One thing I hadn’t considered is my intake plenums leaking. They’re the manifold type thingy that goes into the head. I highly doubt mine have been off before and they’re a common leak point. If they do leak I have some serious work cut out for me as the turbo has to come off along with a bunch of other stuff to reseal them.. ugh I’m ok with a wrench but it’s quite a bit more work than I care to do. Fingers crossed.
 

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
I've had my truck's plenum off plenty of times without removing the turbo. The boots from the plenum into the heads are sometimes tough to hook back up and the stamped sheetmetal for the part that seals to the heads are weak. I bought some inserts for the stamped sheetmetal part and they allow me to tighten them up without fear of bending.

After removing all the boots, I like to wash them in dish soap and water. When putting them back in (esp. the CAC pipes) I lubricate the boot joints with hair spray ("borrowed" from wife - shhh) and that helps to make and maintain a good seal.

BTW, I hate reinstalling the turbo - lining up the back on the turbo on the up-pipes always fights me. Last time I had it off, I replaced the up-pipes with bellowed versions in hopes of not needing to do that job again for many years.
 
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