Rubicon "buggy" build...

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Keep going Looking good. an you'er going to have this ready for PRICE??

Yes.... Actually, I should have it done by this time next week. There really isn't much left to do....

build the front axle (gears, lockers, knuckles, spindles, hubs, etc)
steering (hi steer arms, fab tie rod and drag link, etc)
front control arms
do something with the exhuast to clear them
brake lines, front and rear - frame down will be custom, I will no longer have two brake lines in the front for each wheel
possibly modify the front driveline to fit (shorten). Rear was already shortened (1350 LJ Rubicon driveline with 6" taken out) right now it has a 1330/1350 combo joint, so I do still need to change the yoke to a 1350. front will need the same.
install crusher corners and cut the tub to match (already painted and ready to go on)
install rocker guards
install fender flares
install gas tank and lines
build tube fenders
build tube radiator hoop
wire up the switches
take everything apart and paint it
install coil overs, adjust and charge them

...Yeah, I should have it done in a few days....:ugh: I leave for Hawaii on the 24th and get back in time to drive to Price. So it must be done by the ~22nd.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Been a while since an update... MIL went home not last Thursday but the one before. Meaning I've had my son full time again, which limits my availabilty on the fab stuff.....

Everything is about done. I finished putting the front end together and under the rig today. It's not sitting on jack stands under the axles, with coil overs supporting the full weight of the rig. It's a big *****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The bottom of the door (not rocker) comes to my belly button. It's all I can do to see over the hood, as it comes to my chin. The stands are all the way down right now (6 ton Harbor Freight jobbers), making the CL of the axle about 8", meaning with the tires on, it will be about 11" taller than what it is now. :eek::eek::eek: I'm going to need a step stool to get in!!!!!!!!!!

This is all preliminary, too... I need to get different spring rates in the rear and I also need to pull out the 16" shocks in the front and put some 14" in it's place, maybe even some 12". Right now the front is sitting about 4" taller than the rear.

All I have left to do is pick up some brake pads for the front (couldn't believe I didn't have them already!, run all of my brake lines (attach the clips and etc, too), hook up my tail/brake/license plate light wires, re plumb the evap canister (I relocated it above the axle on the underside of the tub), adjust the rear coil overs to see if I can even out the heights (doing so will probably make them close to being fully extended..)....Oh, change the 1330 u joint out to a 1330/1350 combo joint in the front driveline and hook it up. Then run through all of the bolts, etc and make sure everything is tight and go for a drive. Oh, I also have all of the ARB stuff to hook up and find a home for the shock reservoirs...

After spending the day relocating my exhuast, I found that I could not triangulate the front. My lower control arms right now are 40" long and the best I could do on the tops is about 27" - unless I spread them out further from center on the axle, but I'm afraid that will make it weak and problematic, so I went with the tried and true 3 link radius arm setup like I had before. When I have more time, I might go back and revisit the tri link upfront. I also want to go back sometime and extend the back end another 3", with longer control arms. With some longer uppers, I could probably get another 1" at least out of the lowers adjustment. Right now I'm at 99".

Oh, and I still need to make the tube fenders and a grille hoop, to protect the radiator in the (un)likely event of a roll over....
...Yeah, not much left...:ugh:
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Pics or ban!

:rofl:

It's at least driveable now and I've put about 1k miles on it testing, breaking things in, etc. I've heard such comments as "thats beautiful", "beautifully done", "thats dope", "thats the tallest Wrangler Ive ever seen", etc...etc...

Things left to do....
None of the lockers are hooked up, nor is the compressor...

Still need to hook up the switch center and all that entails...

The gas tank is messing up bad! It takes 30 minutes to put 15 gallons of gas in it. The nozzle keeps clicking off after about 8 cents. After looking into it, it's becuase there is no vent and the tank is filling up with air. I relocated the canister, and some of th elines were kinked, but I fixed that. So now I'm not 100% sure what I need to do to fix it...

The front sits really high! I need to swap out the 16" shocks for some 12". The top of the frame in the front is at 41" and the rear is at 35". The rear I have turned the springs down to get as much lift as I can, without binding the driveline and theres still a 6" difference. Also, becuase of this, the rear tires rub on the coils.

Since I'll be dropping the front end, I'll have to change the exhaust back to stock as the driveline will now hit. Dumby me when I was trying to triangulate the front and clear upper control arms, I didn't take into consideration the driveline :rolleyes: ...I agree, not too smart! I spent a day just on the exhaust, too.

After dropping the front and getting the ride height fixed, I need to hook up my anti rock. Right now I don't have any mounts on the axle, so I'll need to do that as well. The shock (valving)/spring combination does pretty good at keeping the thing from rocking side to side. I think it's better than it was before the swap.

Since the front end is so tall, I only have about 3* of caster and there is no more adjustment on the upper control arm to make it more. I'm hoping that by dropping the front down, the caster will be closer to 7* (which is what I want right now). If not, I'll have to shorten the link... Right now it really wants to wander!!!! Very scary over 70 mph....:ugh:

Nothing is painted and everything is bare metal/weld. After I get everything how I like it, I have to take it all apart and paint it - and before I have a rust pit!

The brakes are awesome! I haven't had as good of brakes on this thing in.... I never have! Not even new with 31" tires.... However, there is a lot of peddle movement and when the motor is running, they are kind of spongy becuase of it. I may put a master cylinder in from a newer 1 ton Dodge - it's a bolt in but has a larger bore and will supply a lot more fluid to run those very large dual piston calipers. But I can lock up all four 39" tires at 40 mph on pavement. Did I mention I really like the new brakes? ;)

I'm sure there is more, but I can't think of it...?

My gearing/tire combo is perfect. My speedo is only 3 mph fast. Before the swap (35's/4.88's), my speedo was 15 mph fast. Much better...

After I got it done, I lifted the driver front tire with a fork lift 42" off the ground before lifting any other tires. All four shocks were either fully compressed or completely extended. Pushing on the Jeep trying to make it rock, it seemed pretty stable.

Anyway... I should be back from Hawaii the end of next week. I'll work on getting more pics up then.... I'm hoping to have it completely done by June 6th, so I can head down to Price for the King Challenge - right now I'm thinking probably not.... I'm very burned out on this thing and ready to put it way out back where I dont' have to look at it. Hopefully the vacation will fix that and I can come back and work on it.
 

Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
I may put a master cylinder in from a newer 1 ton Dodge - it's a bolt in but has a larger bore and will supply a lot more fluid to run those very large dual piston calipers.

That answered a question that I had in my head about the 60s I just scored.
THanks, and I'm glad to see this coming together for you.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
That answered a question that I had in my head about the 60s I just scored.
THanks, and I'm glad to see this coming together for you.

Remind me in a week and I'll get you the part number.... I'm honestly not even sure I'll mess with it. The brakes are definately different, but not in a bad way... Before, when you pushed on them you only had about 2" of movement and then it was solid. Now I have more like 4" or more. It feels like there is more of a variable braking than before. The more I drive it the more I like it.
 

Lifelong Jeeper

Well-Known Member
Location
Murray
Wow!! You have done a ton and I can't wait to see what you've ended up with. After reading all of that I have a pretty good image in my head but pics sure would help (hint, hint).

Great job!!
 

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
I know what you mean about the front drive line fitting. I did mine and it looked 2" too long. Had it shortened, then when I was setting angles and adjusting caster and centering it turned out... yep, 2" too short. : (

Oh yeah, and what Joe said, no one feels sorry for you being in Hawaii. Have a great one.
 
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JoeT

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman
Hawaii?! WTF?! How the hell are we supposed to get pics of your rig? geezzz

BAN!

Where are you at in Hawaii? My brother lives near Waikiki beach. Friggin punk goe's surfin and swimin about everyday there.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
I'm in Konahoe (sp?) right now. The first couple of nights we stayed at Kathleen's aunt's house in Kialua (she is in the hospital with lung problems, so her huge house with pool and water slide was empty)....Now we're staying at Kathleen's mothers condo - much smaller, with no pool or water slide :(

I have pictures on my camera here, but no cable to download them. I'll get them downloaded, resized and posted by this time next week.

I have the new (shorter 12") shocks on order. I'll get them put on, figure out ride height and spring deflection and then order up the correct springs.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Here is what I decided to do with the exhuast to gain clearence to triangulate the front end. In order to cross the uppers, the exhaust had to be moved... One thing that I failed to pay attention to was the driveline! So now I might have to put the exhuast back to stock to clear the driveline. I didn't end up triangulating the front becuase even with the exhuast moved, the uppers would have only been able to go about 27" and with the 40" lowers, there is just too much of a difference there. So after spending a day working on the exhuast and ordering parts in from Summit Racing to do it, I'll be goign back... :( Also the exhuast crosses under the tranny and heat is an issue. It doesn't get near as hot as it used to when I was running stock Jeep tranny lube, but it does have some heat buildup. I could probably fix it with a peice of aluminum as a heat sheild, but why at this point???
 

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waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Here is a side view of it all done... Well, street safe anyway. In this pic, I'm installing the fender flares... New, Rubicon take offs.
 

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waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Here's some pics with the fork lift... I'm able to lift the front tire 42" off the ground before lifting any other tire. At this point, all of the shocks are either compressed or fully extended. At this point, the rear tires do rub on the springs, otherwise everything else is clear.
 

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waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
If you are wondering about the spare wheel.... I did not want to run a full 39" spare (weight issues for one), but I know I want a spare. So I picked up the 5th wheel and hope to find a 35x16" Baja Claw or MTR for a spare. This will give me a good enoguh spare that I can limp anywhere (off the trail or home), still be light and not turn out getting me hung up on obstacles or etc.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Here's some under neath pics.. I've been pretty bad about getting the tech style pics, but these will show what I've done and where.

If you look at the brake lines, you'll notice they T in the front and rear. I basically took the second line off the front and capped the proportional valve. Then re routed both front and rear to run down the control arms, T, then go out to each wheel. This way I don't have to have LLLOOOOONNNNG brake lines! In fact, I have 4 - 18" and 4 - 12". I wish I had all 12", as even the few 18" lines were long. To help that out, I used two of the 18" lines on the front at the calipers. I may relocate the mounts and go to 12" lines as I'm not really liking the longer 18" lines in the front - I'm afraid they will get hung up on something being that long. ..Doubtful, but I don't have very good luck, so I'm expecting it! :D
 

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