RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
Yep. Done a few others like this. Spread the load out over a larger distance and in several different planes. No issues yet. And it has another upper arm to share the load.
Show Us Your PROJECTS!
- Thread starter MikeGyver
- Start date
Yep. Done a few others like this. Spread the load out over a larger distance and in several different planes. No issues yet. And it has another upper arm to share the load.
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
I built this over the weekend.
Going to try growing some veggies in it this summer.
- DAA
Going to try growing some veggies in it this summer.
- DAA
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
That planter looks great. Did you build it out of cedar?
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
Thanks!
Used redwood. Cedar would have been fine too, but redwood is what the Home Depot by my house had Saturday morning.
- DAA
Here's a project I'm putting together for a guy.
It's a home brewing setup. It's going to have three 30 gallon pots on it and a bunch of pumps and valve and other cool manly stuff. I talked him into using pre-brushed 304 stainless 1.5" sqaure .065" wall tubing and TIG welding it all.
Did some quick FEA analysis on the basic frame to ensure it'll hold the 800 pound load with acceptable deflection, and determine if/where diagonals should be used.
Study showing 3/32" max defection with a 2000lb top surface load.
It's turning out super rigid. I was jumping up and down in the middle of the frame, it felt as solid as a rock, no deflection whatsoever.
It's a home brewing setup. It's going to have three 30 gallon pots on it and a bunch of pumps and valve and other cool manly stuff. I talked him into using pre-brushed 304 stainless 1.5" sqaure .065" wall tubing and TIG welding it all.
Did some quick FEA analysis on the basic frame to ensure it'll hold the 800 pound load with acceptable deflection, and determine if/where diagonals should be used.
Study showing 3/32" max defection with a 2000lb top surface load.
It's turning out super rigid. I was jumping up and down in the middle of the frame, it felt as solid as a rock, no deflection whatsoever.
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
MikeGyver is doing some awful nice work that is for sure!
I like the repurposing on the cheap too though.
Like I said earlier, just a whole lot of talent and skill you guys have.
- DAA
I like the repurposing on the cheap too though.
Like I said earlier, just a whole lot of talent and skill you guys have.
- DAA
XJEEPER
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland Springs
I inherited one of these Craftsman block grinders from my grandpa, it needs the switch replaced because its getting buggy, but the grinder is awesome. Still has the tool rests and shields on it too.
cjncustoms
Well-Known Member
- Location
- West jordan
Here's a little project I'm building at work. It's a stand for 2 electrical boxes that sit side by side. The stands will mount on the top and middle rungs of a hand rail and the boxes will be flush with the front of the hand rail. Made 2 of them this week. The stand is built from 2x2x.120 stainless. Stick welded. I don't stick very often so don't not pic my welds to much
UNSTUCK
But stuck more often.
I had a bit of down time last week and, as luck would have it, picked up a little job. Normally I have a pretty strict "4 wheel drive" only mentality, but this sounded pretty fun. The customer had a pretty solid idea for a fireplace mantel that he wanted. He brought me all the material and I went to town on it. It's way heavier then it should be, but he wanted to use thick material, to make the different levels really stand out. These are the only pics I took, but you'll get the idea. He's going to blast it and then use a chemical that turns it blue. I don't know much about that part. My wife said it has the looks of an old treasure chest. I liked that idea, then thought I would blast it and then leave it out in the rain for a week or two then clear coat it. Make it look like we found it at the bottom of the ocean.
Anyways, it was a fun, quick project. Really, I should do these kind more often.
Anyways, it was a fun, quick project. Really, I should do these kind more often.
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
That's pretty cool. What did you use for the "rivets'' or whatever they are?
I'm guessing he's using one of those chemicals you can buy at Wasatch Steel that give it the hot metal look or something similar.
Working on building an awards podium for UVU. It is my first time welding aluminum. I really like how the spool gun welds, though it did take some getting used to. I am really enjoying learning something new.
In the close up pic it looks like holes, but they aren't it is just where it wasn't cleaned after welding as well as it should have been.
Some issues I ran into. The first time I loaded the wire into the spool gun it was pretty hard. The wire is so soft. Another thing is welding technique had to change. You can't drag with aluminum you have to push. Also, I found out you can't do the whole stitch method or stack dimes. You have to use a technique called washing(at least that is what the welder that told me called it) Basically, as you are pushing forward the weld puddle you move left to right alternating sides. On a flat straight weld it isn't needed. On that you just push forward and pause, then push forward and pause.
Next I have to skin the front and part of the sides with aluminum and then put stickers on for the WAC championships.
In the close up pic it looks like holes, but they aren't it is just where it wasn't cleaned after welding as well as it should have been.
Some issues I ran into. The first time I loaded the wire into the spool gun it was pretty hard. The wire is so soft. Another thing is welding technique had to change. You can't drag with aluminum you have to push. Also, I found out you can't do the whole stitch method or stack dimes. You have to use a technique called washing(at least that is what the welder that told me called it) Basically, as you are pushing forward the weld puddle you move left to right alternating sides. On a flat straight weld it isn't needed. On that you just push forward and pause, then push forward and pause.
Next I have to skin the front and part of the sides with aluminum and then put stickers on for the WAC championships.
Attachments
Here's a little mini project I did that turned out nice.
I'm starting to offer more of these LED upgrades for gauge clusters (as well as repairing them).
One of my cars had terrible looking incandescent bulbs for backlighting on the gauge cluster, and they only got more and more yellowish as you dimmed them.
I took the cluster apart and soldered in crisp, clean looking, white LEDs for the backlights, green for the turn signals, and blue for the high beam indicator. I also colored the face of the needles orange (they were pure white).
The difference is impressive; the car literally feels nicer and newer now since the gauge is the only part of the car you really see at night. And the gauges stay pure white as I dim them now.
These comparison pictures were taken with the same shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and white balance settings, so it is an accurate representation.
:thumbs:
I'm starting to offer more of these LED upgrades for gauge clusters (as well as repairing them).
One of my cars had terrible looking incandescent bulbs for backlighting on the gauge cluster, and they only got more and more yellowish as you dimmed them.
I took the cluster apart and soldered in crisp, clean looking, white LEDs for the backlights, green for the turn signals, and blue for the high beam indicator. I also colored the face of the needles orange (they were pure white).
The difference is impressive; the car literally feels nicer and newer now since the gauge is the only part of the car you really see at night. And the gauges stay pure white as I dim them now.
These comparison pictures were taken with the same shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and white balance settings, so it is an accurate representation.
:thumbs:
Last edited:
- Location
- West Jordan
Jesser04
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville Utah
What would you charge to do 2007 silverado?Here's a little mini project I did that turned out nice.
I'm starting to offer more of these LED upgrades for gauge clusters (as well as repairing them).
One of my cars had terrible looking incandescent bulbs for backlighting on the gauge cluster, and they only got more and more yellowish as you dimmed them.
I took the cluster apart and soldered in crisp, clean looking, white LEDs for the backlights, green for the turn signals, and blue for the high beam indicator. I also colored the face of the needles orange (they were pure white).
The difference is impressive; the car literally feels nicer and newer now since the gauge is the only part of the car you really see at night. And the gauges stay pure white as I dim them now.
These comparison pictures were taken with the same shutter speed, aperture, ISO, and white balance settings, so it is an accurate representation.
:thumbs: