Spray transfer

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
cruiseroutfit said:
Hmmm... cool....

So good looking... one of those links said that is is a "low-penetration" method... yet they used it for everything on that desert rig... any comments?
wait a second.....it says short circuit is the low penetration...only good on 1/4" and smaller.

Spray-transfer was the ideal method for thicker materials.

Or did I read it wrong.....?

damn...where's my helmet?
 
Last edited:

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
bryson said:
wait a second.....it says short circuit is the low penetration...only good on 1/4" and smaller.

Spray-transfer was the ideal method for thicker materials.

Or did I read it wrong.....?

damn...where's my helmet?


well, the way you are taught is that anything thicker than 1/4" you should bevel the edges, so technicaly thats pretty accurate...in reality most welders 175 and up can do 1/4" in a single pass, 210 and larger machines can do even thicker material with no bevel in a single pass... :-\

I think for the most part that true spray transfer (not pulse) doesn;t apply too much to us because it is good for flat horizontal welding only...it gets the material too hot to be able to do overhead or verticle and be done properly, and most parts on our rigs we weld may be able to be bench welded horizontally but when fitting it up rarely are we welding horizontally...just my $.02:D
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
supergper said:
well, the way you are taught is that anything thicker than 1/4" you should bevel the edges, so technicaly thats pretty accurate...in reality most welders 175 and up can do 1/4" in a single pass, 210 and larger machines can do even thicker material with no bevel in a sincle pass... :-\
I agree that short-circuit is more than adequate.....but according to the article....spray-transfer was stronger....right?
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
supergper said:
well, the way you are taught is that anything thicker than 1/4" you should bevel the edges, so technicaly thats pretty accurate...in reality most welders 175 and up can do 1/4" in a single pass, 210 and larger machines can do even thicker material with no bevel in a sincle pass... :-\
In the last link I posted, he beveld the metal with a mill, and made 3 spray passes.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Hiker said:
In the last link I posted, he beveld the metal with a mill, and made 3 spray passes.


the one to the hobart site? I cant get the link to work for me...


I can see spray being able to do thicker material because its so much hotter than you would generally do mig with...and you use thicker wire which also makes a big difference...
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
supergper said:
well, the way you are taught is that anything thicker than 1/4" you should bevel the edges, so technicaly thats pretty accurate...in reality most welders 175 and up can do 1/4" in a single pass, 210 and larger machines can do even thicker material with no bevel in a single pass... :-\

I think for the most part that true spray transfer (not pulse) doesn;t apply too much to us because it is good for flat horizontal welding only...it gets the material too hot to be able to do overhead or verticle and be done properly, and most parts on our rigs we weld may be able to be bench welded horizontally but when fitting it up rarely are we welding horizontally...just my $.02:D
Actually, from what I have been reading, the only reason it isn't used more widely, is because you are basically spraying a fluid, and it will "run" in any other position. It really doesn't seem to heat up the base metal as much as you think. It would be more accurate to say that it spreads the heat very evenly throughout the bead.
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
supergper said:
...I can see spray being able to do thicker material because its so much hotter than you would generally do mig with...and you use thicker wire which also makes a big difference...

I think your right... but that brings up a whole new subject... annealing and hardening... in other words... sometimes heat can be bad... I guess in the end, there is a time for both... I need to read some more about it, I am having a hard time understanding how to get the "spray" method to work...
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
cruiseroutfit said:
I think your right... but that brings up a whole new subject... annealing and hardening... in other words... sometimes heat can be bad... I guess in the end, there is a time for both... I need to read some more about it, I am having a hard time understanding how to get the "spray" method to work...
If you are using .035 wire in your mm210, set the heat at 7 and the wire speed at 55 or 60. try not to jump when you hear the sound difference. ;)
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
cruiseroutfit said:
I think your right... but that brings up a whole new subject... annealing and hardening... in other words... sometimes heat can be bad... I guess in the end, there is a time for both... I need to read some more about it, I am having a hard time understanding how to get the "spray" method to work...


yep, I was thinking about the same thing...I guess if you really know what you are doing it could be beneficial...
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Hiker said:
Actually, from what I have been reading, the only reason it isn't used more widely, is because you are basically spraying a fluid, and it will "run" in any other position. It really doesn't seem to heat up the base metal as much as you think. It would be more accurate to say that it spreads the heat very evenly throughout the bead.


yeah, BUT anytime you are welding you are controlling a liquid puddle and yet you are still able to do it overhead...it is a good point about it being a liquid form the get go but when you are working with that much heat the base metal is going to get very hot...
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Hiker said:
If you are using .035 wire in your mm210, set the heat at 7 and the wire speed at 55 or 60. try not to jump when you hear the sound difference. ;)

What shielding gas are you using? I'm gonna try it in a few minutes, but from the links I read earlier, 75/25 isn't the best mix for spray.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
I Lean said:
What shielding gas are you using? I'm gonna try it in a few minutes, but from the links I read earlier, 75/25 isn't the best mix for spray.
I have the same gas. After more reading, I have realized that I havn't quite reached Spray transfer, what I am doing is Globular transfer, which is close to spray, but still produces some spatter. Looks like it will take the 90/10 gas to reach spray with my 210. But try it anyway, it is still kinda neat.
 
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