Steve's 81 Toyota "angelo" build

AlienXtx

Member
Nice truck man, I wish I would have kept the 83' I had because I like that body style much better then my 87', but I got a hell of a deal on it so I'll just work with what I got "Flatbed" and all....lol
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Yeah, there is something special about those 1st gens. The 2nd gens are cheaper and have more of the good parts, and the longer frame, and PS, and the 22RE, and the w56, but the 1st gens are just so cool.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'll be having a wrenching party at my house tonight. 8PM till midnight. Feel free to stop by if you want to wrench on my truck with me. Here are some things that need to be done:

brakes
- install manual prop valve
- install extended brake line on Pass front
- bleed brakes

Gas tank
- re-mount between the frame rails (cut out spare crossmember)
- re-plumb lines (get longer lines)

Steering
- install hydro assist

T-case
- install twin-stick

Assuming all that gets done, we can fire it up and see if it starts.


Body
- put herculiner on the underside of the tranny tunnel
- put herculiner on inner front fenders

And, if there are a ton of workers and we just have so much help that we don't know what to do with ourselves (yeah right), we can build my sliders too.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
just dropped off my rear driveline today. Should be ready by tomorrow. I'll drop off my front driveline tomorrow, so I should have drivelines by this weekend. It sounds like I may even be able to drive it out of my garage this weekend.
 

864runner

I know I'm your hero
Location
West Jordan, UT
I would love to come down tonight Steve but I gotta be up at 4 a.m. and I really need my beauty sleep. haha. I'll be camping next weekend so if you still need help after that then I can come down. I can also bring my welder down If you wanted to weld those sliders with a little bigger machine?
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I would love to come down tonight Steve but I gotta be up at 4 a.m. and I really need my beauty sleep. haha. I'll be camping next weekend so if you still need help after that then I can come down. I can also bring my welder down If you wanted to weld those sliders with a little bigger machine?

Sweet. My buddy is coming over tonight to help with the sliders. I can handle 1/4" with my little 110, but that's about as thick as it likes to weld in one pass. Thanks for the offer. I will be needing help this weekend, so if you're in the area let me know.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
My buddy had homework and didn't show, so no sliders unfortunately.

Nick from Low Range stopped by and we got the manual proportioning valve working. Brakes are almost done, just need to attach an extended line and bleed them.

The rest of the night was spent cutting out the old spare tire mount:

DSC06371.JPG



...and trying to figure out where I'm going to put my gas tank.

DSC06372.JPG


DSC06373.JPG


DSC06374.JPG
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Ok, I need lots of informed opinions. I've got the 3" springs. Assuming I have my bumpstops right before the springs go to negative arch, what's the most the rear diff will move up? Let's say worst case scenario, that I jump it (never going to happen). Will that rear axle move up more than 5 inches? I just don't see that happening. I need advice/opinions/thoughts on whether or not I'm going to have issues with the tank in front of the axle.

I'd do behind the axle like everyone else, but I don't want it hanging out in the back, ready to get tagged on a big drop.


I really don't think the axle or the driveshaft will hit it if I put it here.
DSC06375.JPG


I've got 9" from the top of the axle to the bottom of the tank, but it's the diff that'll get the closest. I'd guess I have about 6-7" clearance.
DSC06376.JPG


I'm sure it'll be fine for flexy, articulated stuff, but if I drop off a ledge and my weight falls on both rear wheels at once, I want to make sure I don't puncture my tank.

Diff looking up at the t-case. It's impossible to tell from this picture how far away the tank is.
DSC06377.JPG


DSC06378.JPG


DSC06379.JPG


Here you can see that it's just barely in front of the axle.
DSC06380.JPG
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Good point chandler. Maybe I'll put some type of crossmember where in the event of a driveline break, the driveline will hit the crossmember before it lifts up enough to puncture the tank. Good point. I guess it isn't any worse than stock location though.

Why dont you get a fuel cell? Thats what I plan on doing with mine, ofcourse im building a tube/flatbed on the back of mine.

I don't have the money for a fuel cell, and I am keeping the original bed.


...any other opinions?
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Good deal. Thanks. I'll see if it's for 4 or 5. I may have to wait a month or so for tires, I just dropped almost a grand at Low Range yesterday alone.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
long-slip driveline, 4 billsteins, twin stick, shock hooops (front and rear) and a few more things I can't remember. They hooked me up though, they're great guys.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I feel like a rock star. I went down to drop off my driveline and I ran into a fellow RME'er (sorry I forgot your username but I do know you drive a white xj on 33's.), and he recognized me from this thread. Whoever you are, thanks for saying hi, it was nice to meet you.
 
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