Suzuki TDI Swapped Samurai Truck Conversion

[Tonkaman]

That IS beefy!

 

[The_Lobbster]

Got the new steering arm mounted, and it steers so much better without the arm bending and springing back, what it was doing with the Mercedes arm. With the merc arm, the steering wheel would pretty much snap back as soon as you let go of it.

 

[The_Lobbster]

Here's a short video of the electric power steering, originally I had made the bracket for the EPS motor removable, but had to rework it, so I decided to just lay a bead on each side, if I need to remove it later for some reason, I can just cut the weld and hammer it off. The EPS works awesome, and steering is so much smoother and better after getting rid of the mercedes arm, and switching to a legit billet high steer arm.

 

[Greg]

Here's a short video of the electric power steering, originally I had made the bracket for the EPS motor removable, but had to rework it, so I decided to just lay a bead on each side, if I need to remove it later for some reason, I can just cut the weld and hammer it off. The EPS works awesome, and steering is so much smoother and better after getting rid of the mercedes arm, and switching to a legit billet high steer arm.

That's pretty awesome, nice work!

 

[Greg]

Bump!

 

[The_Lobbster]

So, back to this! I deleted my other thread since Greg brought this back.
Long story short, sold this thing back in May, was pretty bummed because it was my first car at 16, had always wanted to take it to Moab at least once, but then I sold it. Kept in contact with the guy I sold it to though. Around July or August, maybe later, he texted me that he had to get it moved out of the garage he had it stored at, so he decided to just rip the drivetrain out, keep the axles, and offered me back the frame and body for free. I already had bought another sami at this point, so I just robbed the axles from that one, and threw them under this one. This is pretty much how it sat when I sold it.

 

[The_Lobbster]

I got it back with no front clip either. However, I did get the Suzuki Swift GTI seats back from him too, which I really like, so that was a win as well I suppose.

 

[The_Lobbster]

I traded the guy I sold the rig to the hood from my other sami I bought, so I could get my old one back. Also got an auto tranny, a tracker 2wd 5 speed, other odds and ends. Also, when Lowrange closed the Orem location, I grabbed a bunch of Samurai high steer arms. Had mostly left hand drive, but also had a few right hand drive. Traded one of each to a guy in Payson who was building a small buggy with Sami axles, for a front clip minus hood. Core support was trashed and bashed in, so I ordered an SJ410 grill, which came from India, and well, the quality was garbage. Under the primer, it is rusting out already. I'm hoping to just wire wheel it down, and I'll just rattle can it, because, I'm a cheapo Samurai owner like 99% of them are. I picked up a set of Pacer wheels for $50, and some 235/75r15's for $60. It's nice to be able to at least roll it around.

 

[The_Lobbster]

When I "built" this thing the first time around, and stretched the frame, I used 1/4" plate, and tried to weld it all together with my little 110 miller. Let's just say I should not have ever attempted such a thing because I didn't have near enough heat for the 1/4". No point in hiding it, the welds were garbage, and so were the fish plates I made. I need to get some new ones cut that are proper. So far I have cut off all the outside fish plates, and will be rebuilding this frame the right way, using a little thinner fish plates so that I can actually get it all burned together. I sold the 110, and have a 125 now, hopefully that'll be enough! I also cut off my shock mounts, and will be changing them up.

Strongly considering a radius arm setup, everybody on here is very knowledgeable, so I feel confident I can figure it out.

 

[The_Lobbster]

Cut up some new frame fish plates with a rosette weld hole. Started mocking up my tcase position, moving it back about 6” from stock.

 

[The_Lobbster]

This is pretty crude, but I think this very basic bracket would work. Passenger side tube is slightly larger, so I accounted for that in the drawing there. It's not super pretty. Anybody have any suggestions of how I could or should draw it differently? Move the axle forward in the bracket? As it is, I pretty much just split the difference for the tubes between the two bushings.

 

[I Lean]

This is pretty crude, but I think this very basic bracket would work. Passenger side tube is slightly larger, so I accounted for that in the drawing there. It's not super pretty. Anybody have any suggestions of how I could or should draw it differently? Move the axle forward in the bracket? As it is, I pretty much just split the difference for the tubes between the two bushings.

The only thing I can see needing to change is to make the slotted rear hole an arc, rather than a straight slot. The arc will be pivoting around the front bolt as you adjust caster. That could easily be accounted for by making the slot just a bit extra sloppy too, but that's just.....sloppy.

 

[The_Lobbster]

The only thing I can see needing to change is to make the slotted rear hole an arc, rather than a straight slot. The arc will be pivoting around the front bolt as you adjust caster. That could easily be accounted for by making the slot just a bit extra sloppy too, but that's just.....sloppy.

It actually is arced, but only on a 7.25" radius, with a .75” center to center range, which isn’t much. I figure though I can get everything setup to pretty close to perfect, weld up the mounts, then fine adjust with that .75” swing.

here’s a pic to prove it’s arced, it’s just hard to see otherwise.

 

[I Lean]

It actually is arced, but only on a 7.25" radius, with a .75” center to center range, which isn’t much. I figure though I can get everything setup to pretty close to perfect, weld up the mounts, then fine adjust with that .75” swing.

here’s a pic to prove it’s arced, it’s just hard to see otherwise.

👍

 

[The_Lobbster]

Got my 80 arms. Mocking them up. I am thinking about some sort of subframe mounts, but unfortunately it would be in the way of the front driveshaft. Thinking I’ll just have to build two separate mounts and try to keep everything square, which will probably be a bit of a challenge I’m sure.
I’m gonna wire wheel these things up and blast them with some Steel-it!

 

[The_Lobbster]

Or I could possibly flip them, and run them top side of the axle?

 

[I Lean]

Or I could possibly flip them, and run them top side of the axle?

The only reason you don't see this more often on 80's is that it's a fair amount of fab work to flip them. You're doing all the brackets either way anyway, so if they fit better that way, do it! The only reasons I can think against it, is if it gets in the way of your coil/shock or coilover...or if it gets into the body mount worse.

 

[The_Lobbster]

The only reason you don't see this more often on 80's is that it's a fair amount of fab work to flip them. You're doing all the brackets either way anyway, so if they fit better that way, do it! The only reasons I can think against it, is if it gets in the way of your coil/shock or coilover...or if it gets into the body mount worse.

Yeah that was the one thing that crossed my mind, another guy on Facebook suggested it, but after thinking about it, it might be difficult. I really only plan on maybe 32” tires max, so it’s probably not too necessary, the objective of this build is extreme comfort, very stable on road, and still able to hit some lighter trails.

 

[The_Lobbster]

I kinda feel like I wouldn’t even really benefit from flipping the arms. I’m not going for crazy lift, so I’ll just keep them under.

 

[The_Lobbster]

Picked up some springs on clearance from rock auto, from a Honda, which is what some Suzuki guys use....except I ordered front springs, and have since found out, they are about 100 pounds stronger than what I should’ve gotten. They were $15 each though, so I’m not out a ton if I can’t return them. Right idea, poor execution 😂