Tech tip: Penetrating oil test results

eh, where are you getting that spec from??

on a related note, ARP has been quietly working on torque tables for their new, specially formulated assembly oil, designed to eliminate metal-to-metal binding and give repeatable results. ;)
 
flexyfool said:
The silver anti-seize is a great preventive measure. It works for lug nuts, frame bolts, rubber bushing bolts, TRE's, etc. Remember to reduce torque by 45%; otherwise, the threads may strip.
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One must be cautious in reducing torque 45%, particularly in clamping applications such as knuckles, hubs, steering arms, etc. I'd love to see an authoritative source on exactly how much to reduce, I've read as little as 20% and as much as 50%.
 
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Interesting....
what would be the best thing to use on the rusted brake caliper bleeder ? I've broken many of them already...
 
WillyLin said:
Interesting....
what would be the best thing to use on the rusted brake caliper bleeder ? I've broken many of them already...
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PB Blast, in my experience, but it won't happen right away. When I know I'm going to run into rusted fittings, I like to hit them with PB a couple times a day for at least a couple days before I tackle the job, they seem to come free a lot easier when I do.
 
Wow, surprising results. PB blaster, often letting it sit a while, has always been my go-to option. I'm surprised how poorly it did in the test. Kinda makes me wonder if they'd have different results if they included a 24 hour soak.
 
cruiseroutfit said:
One must be cautious in reducing torque 45%, particularly in clamping applications such as knuckles, hubs, steering arms, etc. I'd love to see an authoritative source on exactly how much to reduce, I've read as little as 20% and as much as 50%.
Click to expand...

Good point. Loc-tite rather than anti-seize is better for the items you mention that may unscrew. It also prevents corrosion. Sometimes you find yourself debating whether to grab the anti-seize (messy but comes apart easy later) or the loc-tite (expensive and needs heat to come apart).

You definitely need to drop the torque with anti-seize. I've forgotten a couple times and stripped the threads.
 
Good info always like the hillbilly way that works as well or better for less coin. I have always had good luck with service removable blue loctite. And very rarely use red heat recomended for removal. Or green bearing mount for mercedes engines and dana 70 s that have spun the carrier bearings.
 
WillyLin said:
Interesting....
what would be the best thing to use on the rusted brake caliper bleeder ? I've broken many of them already...
Click to expand...

I used PB Blaster days before (like Kevin B mentioned) but no luck so heated them up with a propane torch & got all to break loose. Lots of Youtube videos of people doing it that way and it working great. I usually have great luck with PB Blaster but not by itself on my dad's 71 F250.
 
I was wondering if anyone had tried WD-40's new penetrating oil yet? I've seen it advertised on the tv and just wondering if it worked. I know the regular WD-40 isn't that great.
 
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