The Ham Radio Thread

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
Here is a new topic. In his original post, Steve said:

- only one person can talk at a time (just like a CB or walkabout)

This is true in the sense that only one person should transmit while everybody else listens. That's certainly easy enough when there are only two people in the conversation. But what happens in a group discussion? Especially on the repeater--where its wide area coverage means multiple people are listening and may want to jump into the conversation--it commonly happens that two people speak at the same time. When this happens, it is called doubling (or it may be referred to as a double).

When a repeater is keyed up by two transmissions, it just does what a repeater is supposed to do: it transmits what it hears. The result is usually garbled output. However, the exact effect will vary depending on a few factors. If both signals that hit the repeater are nearly equal in strength, the repeater will 'combine' them and the output will be unintelligible. If one signal is significantly stronger than the other, the output will still be a bit garbled but we will usually be able to make out what the person with the stronger signal is saying. If one person's signal is extremely stronger than the other, we probably won't hear any garbling at all; the only way to know there was a double is if the stronger signal person stops talking and un-keys before the weaker signal person does the same--the instant person A stops talking, suddenly we hear person B finishing off their thought.

How do we react? Usually somebody else (the next person to key up) will announce, "you guys doubled there" or something to that effect, and he'll invite each person to take a turn and restate whatever they just said. In the latter case where someone's signal was extremely stronger than the other person's signal, we might even say, "Steve walked all over you" or, "Steve stomped on you" or something similar. It's no big deal; we just give everyone a chance to again say what they said and then we move on.

As you might guess, the chances of this happening increase with the number of discussion participants. To minimize the chances of doubling, we try to have organized group discussions. As people enter a conversation, they take up a natural order of speaking (based on when/how they enter the conversation) and we usually try to keep things going in that same order. For example, say Steve and I are talking. The conversation obviously goes Steve/Dempsey/Steve/Dempsey/etc. But right after I un-key, John breaks in to make a comment. Steve invites John to speak, which he does, and then Steve proceeds to give his response. Assuming John stays in the conversation, it now goes like this: John/Steve/Dempsey/John/Steve/Dempsey/etc. After another few minutes, Steve un-keys and Brett breaks in. I invite Brett to speak (since I was next in line), and after he does I take my turn. Now it goes like this: John/Steve/Brett/Dempsey/John/Steve/Brett/Dempsey/etc.

Do not let this overwhelm you. If you're talking in a group and it's getting so large that you cannot recall who speaks next, there is no need to panic. To preserve order, you can conclude your comment by simply picking somebody and saying, "I'll turn it over to Steve." At that point, everyone will allow Steve to speak next. If this means going out of order, usually Steve will then pass the conversation to whoever was supposed to be next... or, if he can't remember, he might even somewhat sheepishly state, "I don't remember who is next. I'll hand it to you, Dempsey." No matter what happens, it's okay. Maybe you're multitasking, maybe a sudden distraction caused you to lose track, or whatever. It doesn't matter. Nobody will judge you for it, I promise. We're all friends on the air, so you have absolutely nothing to fear.


That brings up another thing: breaking in. Different regions of the country seem to have different protocols for properly breaking in to a conversation. In some places, using the word 'break' is acceptable. In other places, operators associate the word 'break' with some sort of emergency (at least according to what you read online). Is there a way to avoid this possible confusion? You bet--just use your call sign. Here locally on the 146.760 machine, we often go for shorthand by usually just using the suffix of our call sign; instead of saying, "KG7ETK" I might just interject with, "ETK" instead. The next guy in line is going to acknowledge you either way, so do whatever feels comfortable to you. What if it is your turn and you heard somebody break in? Acknowledge the break and ask him/her to speak. Easy.


One last thing. One common ham radio shorthand is the term 73. This is an end-of-conversation salutation which essentially means "have a good day/best wishes/take care/be safe/etc" all wrapped up into one. We ham radio operators are a courteous bunch, so we use this all the time. Imagine you are in a group chat as described above, with multiple participants, when one person says he needs to leave the conversation. We will each want to wish the outgoing operator 73 in turn, let him exit the discussion, and then we'll get back to the topic at hand. Be considerate and let everybody put in their 73 before you continue rambling on about the topic.
 
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HamRover

Level 1 dirt flinger
Location
Utah County
Thanks for typing all that up! You must have unlimited amounts of time on your hands... :)

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Hey Dempsey, what antenna do you have on your burb?


Currently, I have a Baofeng UV-3R, and I have a UV-3R+ on the way. (I'll be curious to compare the two. Overall, I've found the UV-3R easy to program, even without the keypad. I really like its compact size, light weight, and cheap price. I haven't talked on it much, but I just wanted to report that if an idiot like me can learn the menu, anyone can. I actually find it a lot easier to use than my buddy's Yaesu VX-7R. The one thing I wish it had were a way to enter a name for each preset. There are only 99 preset slots, and they're only saved as a number. Oh well, for $35, I can't complain.

Here's a link to the Baofeng UV-3R+ radio I bought. Remember anyone can buy one and listen in, they just can't transmit without a license.
http://amzn.to/24qRoWS
And here's an actual usable manual for it: https://hamgear.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/uv-3r_faq_2011-10-12.pdf

And then I ordered a comet antenna for each:
http://amzn.to/24qRZYt

I'm thinking about picking up a Yaesu FT2DR for a more reliable, feature-ful handheld. It's .7 lbs vs my .25 lbs Baofeng, so I probably won't take it backpacking, but it does gps logging, which could come in handy on trips. http://amzn.to/24qDzHY

And I think the FTM-100DR would be cool for the van and Airstream.
http://amzn.to/1SMDruW
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Next week I'll be in Moab, and I plan on getting on the sinbad system in the evenings if anyone wants to follow along on our journey and chat.
 

McFate

Active Member
Location
Herriman
I'm thinking about picking up a Yaesu FT2DR for a more reliable, feature-ful handheld. It's .7 lbs vs my .25 lbs Baofeng, so I probably won't take it backpacking, but it does gps logging, which could come in handy on trips. http://amzn.to/24qDzHY

And I think the FTM-100DR would be cool for the van and Airstream.
http://amzn.to/1SMDruW

Just a quick tip - I'd suggest that you don't buy your radios from Amazon, at least, anything nicer than the Baofengs. Radios are one of the areas where Amazon tends to be a bit more expensive than getting things from a dedicated shop. For the two radios you're looking at:



When I bought my FT-8800R, I saved about $50 getting it from HRO vs. Amazon, and at the time, HRO offered a few accessories with the radio that Amazon didn't.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I like using Amazon to read the reviews and do research. I plan on purchasing from ham radio outlet. Thanks for the tip.
 

HamRover

Level 1 dirt flinger
Location
Utah County
Next week I'll be in Moab, and I plan on getting on the sinbad system in the evenings if anyone wants to follow along on our journey and chat.

That would be great if the Moab SDARC repeater is up. Last time I remembered to try it (a few years ago) it was down at the time. I have been back several times, even as recently as Easter Jeep Safari and forgot to try it.

Please let us know if you end up getting either Moab or Bald Mesa to work, and if the links are up.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Sixstringsteve, it's very easy to use the chirp software to label your channels. Chirp will first import the settings from your radio. Then, all you have to do is change the name of the channel from 23 to HAM42 or whatever you like. Youtube is full of tutorials.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I could be wrong, but I don't think the UV-3R can display names for channels, only frequencies. I hope I'm wrong. It looks like the UV-5R can though.

From what I read here, it looks like the "name" function in chirp is disabled with the UV-3R
 
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gijohn40

too poor to wheel... :(
Location
Layton, Utah
This is the antenna that I have always used... I love it. Dempsey mentioned on one of the other posts that I had trouble with it... it was the coax that was causing me troubles once I replaced that it was good to go. And for $20 you can not beat this antenna!

http://www.dxengineering.com/parts/...LZ8M0jgQIL7iP6eOTfWqixMKVREjUdq79LhoCfY_w_wcB

These are the two things you need to watch for... the higher the DB gain the better the signal and 5/8 wave is better then a 1/4 wave...


* 3.4 dB gain
* 5/8 wave, stainless steel construction
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'd like to mount my antenna on the hood of my van. The hood slopes down quite a bit. Does anyone have any recommendations on which mount to go with?
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Interesting tidbit I learned about my Baofeng UV-3r (Mk2). It has a SMA-male antenna. My Baofeng UV-3R+ has a SMA-female mount. Super confusing. They also use different cables to connect to USB. Hopefully this saves someone the pain of not ordering the wrong antenna like I did.

ALso, SMA-male refers to a male fitting on the RADIO, not the antenna. Ironically, an SMA-male antenna has a female receiving end.
 

McFate

Active Member
Location
Herriman
I'd like to mount my antenna on the hood of my van. The hood slopes down quite a bit. Does anyone have any recommendations on which mount to go with?

Maybe try something like this? http://www.wearecb.com/kalibur-kcomm1-stainless-steel-fender-nmo-antenna-mount.html

I've got a pair of these on each side of the Bronco - one for the ham, the other for the CB. They weren't an exact fit though, so I had to do a little bending, but they went on pretty easy. Just loosened one bolt, slid the mount in, and tightened it back down. Even if you couldn't find an E350-specific mount, there really isn't much to this thing - if you've got access to the right toolkit, you could probably make a handful of these things pretty easily.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I like the idea of a stainless bracket. I can make one myself out of steel, I just need to know if I need to ground it to the chassis or not.
 

TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
sounds good. Does the mount have to be grounded to bare metal?

In my experience, no. Grounded, yes, but I'm getting great continuity even though I didn't scratch off my paint.

EDIT: on my Burb, I attached my brackets with pre-existing bolts which are obviously well grounded. That may be why I never had to remove my paint.
 
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TurboMinivan

Still plays with cars
Location
Lehi, UT
Hey Dempsey, what antenna do you have on your burb?

As you've already found out, the Larsen NMO2/70B. This is a fabulous antenna, and is easily worth every penny of its $70 price tag.

And I think the FTM-100DR would be cool for the van and Airstream.

The FTM-100DR is the newer version of my trusty FT-7900R dual band but with digital capability added (along with a very nice readout screen). If you think you want the Yaesu digital capability, I'm sure it will be a great radio. If you don't care about the digital capability, then you ought to hurry up and buy an FT-7900R while you can still get one--its price is now down to $280 at HRO.

Just a quick tip - I'd suggest that you don't buy your radios from Amazon, at least, anything nicer than the Baofengs.

Thank you for mentioning that, as I forgot to do so. Amazon can help you during your research phase, but HRO is usually the way to go when it comes time to shell out cash for a brand name radio.

That would be great if the Moab SDARC repeater is up. Last time I remembered to try it (a few years ago) it was down at the time.

At EJS16, I used the Bald Mesa repeater multiple times to connect to friends back home in Utah county. It was working then.

I could be wrong, but I don't think the UV-3R can display names for channels, only frequencies. It looks like the UV-5R can though.

It sounds like the 3R cannot do that. I can confirm that the 5R family definitely can, though.

These are the two things you need to watch for... the higher the DB gain the better the signal and 5/8 wave is better then a 1/4 wave...

* 3.4 dB gain
* 5/8 wave, stainless steel construction

For the record, Larsen advertises the gain of the NMO2/70B is 3.8 dBi on 2m, and 5.2 dBi on 70cm. Looks like I'm the winner, right?

Be very wary here. Selecting an antenna simply because of its advertised gain rating is highly likely to lead to a poor choice, for many reasons. As Alan Applegate likes to summarize it, "Don't play the gain game!" He continues: "The most common mistake newcomers make is the selection of their mobile antenna. Apparently, their only consideration seems to be the amount of advertised gain. Trust me on this, there is more to VHF/UHF mobile antennas than their advertised gain figures! Like sturdiness and weather resistance, to name just two."

"Keep in mind that antennas don't achieve gain in the usual sense. If you feed an antenna with 50 watts, the radiated power is still 50 watts. What does happen is the radiation pattern is changed. This results in more power being radiated in a specific direction, and less power being radiated in other directions. It is this differential which is expressed as gain."

"There is another unfortunate aspect of the Gain Game. If you don't know what the gain figures are measured against, they mean absolutely nothing! Because each manufacturer does their own testing, you cannot and should not compare these figures from one brand to another. One manufacturer's fine print states their gain is measured against the average HT antenna; in other words, a rubber ducky." That is horribly misleading.

So how do you decide? Well, I suggest you learn about radiation patterns and begin to form your own opinion about what might work best for you. How can you do that? A great place to start is by reading Larsen's "Amateur Antenna Products, Vol 2" catalog. It is a great pdf which is free to download; just google 'larsen antenna catalog' and it should be the first result. (I'd link it here but Google won't just give me the URL to copy and paste, sorry.) Pages 4 and 5 are chock full of technical information, including diagrams of radiation patterns for 1/4 wave, 1/2 wave, 5/8 wave and more. Lots of great information there.

Having said all that, let me now share some personal experience. My first mobile antenna was a (dual band) Tram 1181. This is a 1/4 wave 2m antenna, measuring about 19" tall. My econocar had a power sunroof, so I installed this antenna by drilling a hole in the center of the trunklid (it was an NMO mount). All the online resources (including that Larsen catalog) explain how a 1/4 wave antenna radiates its signal in a more vertical direction than a 1/2 wave antenna. Being surrounded by mountains, it seemed this would be the right choice for me.

Later, I finally installed another ham radio in my Jeep. This time around, I opted to go for the (dual band) Larsen NMO2/70B which is a 1/2 wave 2m antenna measuring about 34" tall. I drilled into one front fender and mounted it there. Despite the different output pattern, I was surprised to observe that it behaved at least as good as the Tram when it came to hitting repeaters which are close to me but high up (such as the 146.760 on Lake Mountain). Because I could not notice a difference in such situations, I have come to the conclusion that a 1/4 wave might only be superior to a 1/2 wave if you are right at the bottom of the mountain. Where I did notice a difference was when trying to hit more distant repeaters. I remember one day when I was testing both vehicles which were parked side-by-side in my driveway. I was trying to hit a repeater either on Antelope Island or Farnsworth Peak (I can't recall which). In the car, I had to go all the way to max power (50w) to bring up the repeater at all; even on the next step down (20w), I could never get the machine to respond. When I got into my Jeep and tuned in to the same repeater, even at only 10w I could get the machine to respond every time I keyed the mic. Every. Time. Both vehicles had identical FT-7900R radios. Is it any wonder why I decided to install another NMO2/70B on my Suburban?

Based on all the above experience and research, this is why I generally suggest a taller 1/2 wave antenna rather than a shorter 1/4 wave design. Unless you are operating a fixed base station at the very foot of a mountain and your repeater is at the top of it, I think you're gonna get better performance from the taller design. Also, be sure to choose an antenna which is rated to handle more power than your radio can feed it. It's nice to have a 'cushion' to make sure you don't burn up your antenna, or to allow for a potential future radio upgrade, etc. My Larsen is rated for 100w, and my FT-7900R only puts out 50w max, so I'm comfortable with that.

HTH
 
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