sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Congrats Kevin.
The Ham Radio Thread
- Thread starter sixstringsteve
- Start date
- Location
- Stinkwater
Thanks Steve and Dempsey, it's been on my list for a while. I'm happy to have something in the truck that'll let me reach out and touch somebody if I need to.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
Oh, hey, I forgot to keep an eye on the FCC... so I completely missed Kevin being issued his call sign. Congratulations, KI7IRH!
Now that you're legal and all, I'm happy to help you get on the air. Let me know if you want to get together and play with radios.
- Location
- Stinkwater
My wife says "Kevin is seven and I are hot".
I'd love to get together. I haven't bought a proper antenna or the programming cable yet so I haven't tried to do much yet.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
You may have heard me mention this before, but it is common for hams to find a cute/silly/appropriate phrase to help others remember the suffix of their FCC-issued call sign. When I saw it, the first thing I thought was "I'm Right Here." But if you want to use the wife's sugestion and refer to yourself by saying "I Are Hot," well, I won't stop you.Which model do you have? Is it a UV-5R?
- Location
- Stinkwater
No no, she's hot. I'm, uh, not hot. Unhot. Antihot, even.
UV-5R V2+. Which as near as I can tell is pretty much the exact same thing as the UV-5R but with a nasty blingy chrome speaker plate and minus the superfluous "band" button. It shares batteries and headsets and everything with the UV-5R.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
Hey, I am not here to judge anyone.
Yep, yep. I also have a V2+ (because that's what they sent me as a replacement when my UV-5RA broke). I'm pretty sure I have a programing cable for it. Once I dig it up, I can come to your place and help you get up and running.
- Location
- The Village of Kay
I'm signed up to take the test Wednesday night for technician. I plan to get a radio for Christmas, and have a gift card to Amazon. I am severely overwhelmed by the options. What do the more experienced operators recommend for a first radio? Budget is up to $200.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For $200 I'd say get a baofeng uv5-r, some accessories like a hand mic and car charger, and maybe a mag mount antenna. I've got a programming cable kicking around somewhere you could use. After the WC rally I was looking for my uv5-r and realized it didn't get recovered from my car theft so I'll probably add one to my christmas list. I like having a spare for trails or to just be able to hand off to someone without comms so they can listen in on the trail.
If you wanted to go all out get a hard mount antenna instead of a mag mount I think the standard recommendation by Dempsey and others that I also have is the larson nmo 2/70. Its a good all around antenna that will work on the most commonly used frequencies that you'll be able to access with a tech license. You'll also need the base and coax cable to run into your cabin. This is the one I've got but as long as the base connector is nmo you should be fine. Then you'd just need to find something to mount it all to your rig. I bought an SS bracket from Gamaviti a while back during a sale but it shouldn't be too bad to find something else or bend one up yourself. What this setup would get you paired with a UV5-r is an okay handheld you could connect to an awesome antenna that you could use long term if/when you decide to buy a mobile ham radio. (You'd still need an adapter cable to go from the PL259 on the larson nmo-k to I think female SMA on the UV5-R. I may have an extra one of these laying around or Ra-Elco should be able to make you one for a few bucks. Or get one online.) I think this is the right adapter cable but you should double check before buying.
Amazon link to larsen nmo 2/70
Amazon link to larson nmo-k (base and cable)
If you wanted to go all out get a hard mount antenna instead of a mag mount I think the standard recommendation by Dempsey and others that I also have is the larson nmo 2/70. Its a good all around antenna that will work on the most commonly used frequencies that you'll be able to access with a tech license. You'll also need the base and coax cable to run into your cabin. This is the one I've got but as long as the base connector is nmo you should be fine. Then you'd just need to find something to mount it all to your rig. I bought an SS bracket from Gamaviti a while back during a sale but it shouldn't be too bad to find something else or bend one up yourself. What this setup would get you paired with a UV5-r is an okay handheld you could connect to an awesome antenna that you could use long term if/when you decide to buy a mobile ham radio. (You'd still need an adapter cable to go from the PL259 on the larson nmo-k to I think female SMA on the UV5-R. I may have an extra one of these laying around or Ra-Elco should be able to make you one for a few bucks. Or get one online.) I think this is the right adapter cable but you should double check before buying.
Amazon link to larsen nmo 2/70
Amazon link to larson nmo-k (base and cable)
Last edited:
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Do you want a handheld, or an in-car (called mobile) unit? I have a kenwood handheld that I'd be willing to sell.
- Location
- The Village of Kay
Thanks for the great info Nate! I will definitely look into all of those options.
I'm looking to start with a handheld, then mount a mobile unit in my rig when I have a better idea what I want, simply because I like the idea of having the handheld for when I leave the truck or need a spare.
What model is it, and how much do you want?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm looking to start with a handheld, then mount a mobile unit in my rig when I have a better idea what I want, simply because I like the idea of having the handheld for when I leave the truck or need a spare.
What model is it, and how much do you want?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
It's a TH-F6. Used once. I just saw your budget, it's going to be out of your budget. I've really liked this unit. It's the smallest one kenwood makes (something that's really important to me for backpacking).
- Location
- The Village of Kay
Looks like a great little radio, but yea, over my budget. Thanks though!
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
Usually, not a handheld (or an HT in ham radio speak). The cheap Chinese radios that are so prevalent have only one advantage: they are dirt cheap. Everything else about them is a drawback. Their low power output limits their range; their horrible stock antennas limit their range even further; they are much more complicated to operate than the higher quality radios; their build quality is hit-or-miss at best; warranty service is nearly impossible to get so you should consider all sales as final as-is, where-is, their audio output is often not as good as quality radios (meaning I can listen to operators and often tell who is on a Chinese HT and who is using a 'real' mobile radio), etc.
Having said all that, I will re-state something I've said many times before: if buying a Chinese handheld radio is what it takes for you to enter the hobby, then by all means buy yourself a Chinese handheld radio. With any luck, the difficulty of operation won't turn you off to the hobby**, you'll stick with it, and soon you'll decide to buy a quality radio and start using that instead.
**: this is a valid concern. I know a few people who got their license, bought a Baofeng, quickly got frustrated with it because they couldn't make it work properly and/or it wouldn't hit their desired repeaters, so they chucked the radio and left the hobby. This is why I am so against a Baofeng HT as a first radio.
Having a handheld and a fixed mobile radio is a fantastic strategy. Every time I go on a Jeep trip of any length (even just a day run in AF canyon), I put my Yaesu HT in my glovebox so I have it just in case. If you do this, it would be very wise to purchase an upgraded antenna for your HT--that way you can get a bit more use out of it should the need arise.
As far as usual recommendations for a first radio, I'll put that in a different reply to this thread.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
I forgot to mention:
Amazon is a great place to buy Chinese radios. It is a lousy place to buy Japanese name-brand radios, though. For the good stuff, you'll always get better prices at Ham Radio Online (www.hamradio.com) or GigaParts (www.gigaparts.com). Here in Utah, HRO items tend to ship faster since they have warehouses close to us. Gigaparts tends to take considerably longer, at least in my experience.
FYI
Amazon is a great place to buy Chinese radios. It is a lousy place to buy Japanese name-brand radios, though. For the good stuff, you'll always get better prices at Ham Radio Online (www.hamradio.com) or GigaParts (www.gigaparts.com). Here in Utah, HRO items tend to ship faster since they have warehouses close to us. Gigaparts tends to take considerably longer, at least in my experience.
FYI
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
My suggestions and recommendations for choosing a mobile ham radio
Rule #1: do not try using a handheld radio in your car! This is a bad idea for a whole lot of reasons: they put out very little power, your car will act like a faraday cage and block most of what little signal the radio does put out, they are bulky and bothersome when you're supposed to have your hands on the steering wheel anyway, and much more. Lots of new hams want to run out and buy a handheld as their first radio simply because they are cheap, but please take my advice and do not try using any such device as your mobile radio.
I'm going assume you've wisely decided not to use a handheld in your car, and are now instead considering a radio which was designed for mobile use. What should you buy? Well, you have many options. Rather than blindly suggesting one specific radio, I will instead introduce three considerations for you to ponder... and once you do, your answer should be pretty clear.
First consideration: which brand? I think you should stick to a quality brand name radio. In the last few years, a number of Chinese companies have jumped into the ham radio market. As a general rule, these radios have one common attraction: low price. However, think twice before grabbing your wallet, because these Chinese radios also share a number of common drawbacks: low power output, difficult operation, very shoddy documentation, poor signal output, and more. An experienced ham with lots of patience will often push through all these drawbacks and force themselves to deal with it, but new hams will most often quickly become frustrated and discouraged, sometimes to the point of giving up on the hobby. Don't be that guy. Buy a quality radio from the get-go and you'll be far happier, I promise. As they say: buying a quality, more costly product only hurts once (ie, when you spend the money) but buying a cheap, inferior product hurts every day you use it.
What are some quality brands? Experienced hams generally stick to the "big three" well-known Japanese names: Yaesu, Kenwood and Icom. Some ham operators are fiercely loyal to one of these companies; other operators readily buy equipment from all three. Of these three brands, I personally have so far only purchased Yaesu ham radios--and I've been delighted with them all. Because of this, I will only suggest Yaesu radios below. However, I have full confidence in just about any radio from Kenwood or Icom. Feel free to study each brand, decide which one has the look/design/layout you like best, and go with that. I am certain any radio from these three brands will offer more user satisfaction than any Chinese model.
Second consideration: single band verses dual-band (or multi-band). Ham radio has a number of frequency ranges ("bands") available, depending on your license. For a variety of reasons, the two meter band (2m) is the one most commonly used in mobile installations. As a result, the lowest entry-level mobile radios will operate on 2m only. As your budget increases, one or two steps up the ladder of capability will result in dual-band radios that operate on 2m and 70cm (often also called "440"). As you spend even more, you'll see multi-band radios that operate on 2m, 70cm, plus 6m and 10m. How many bands do you need? Well, that's sort of a regional thing. It might be a good idea to ask around and see what experienced hams in your area have to say on the matter. For example, 70cm is commonly used here in Utah; however, I've spoken with ham operators out east who say 70cm is virtually silent and largely useless in their area.
Some people would tell you not to stress too much about this, particularly when you're new to the hobby. To a certain extent, I agree--I really don't think there is a strong case for a four-band mobile radio which isn't an all-mode, all-band dedicated HF unit. However, I still think you ought to put some thought into single band (2m) verses dual band (2m + 70cm), and here's why: the first mobile radio I bought (for my commuter car) was a 2m-only FT-2900R. I chose it because it was significantly cheaper than a dual-band radio. Six months later when I wanted another radio for my Jeep, I splurged and bought a dual-band FT-7900R solely because I needed a removable face. I quickly fell in love with the 70cm capability--plus some other benefits that radio had compared to the FT-2900R--so I sold that 2900 (for less than I paid for it, obviously) and then bought another FT-7900R to replace it. Had I simply bought a 7900 in the first place, I would have spent less money overall. So, again, think about what you really want before you make a purchase--it can save you money in the long run.
Third consideration: ease of installation in your specific vehicle. This idea encompasses two aspects: physical size of the radio, and remote mount capability. Radio size is an obvious thing; as you look around your vehicle for a place to mount your soon-to-be-purchased radio, it is easy enough to take some measurements and see where it can fit. Is your car short on space? Not to worry--that's why some radios offer remote mount capability. Such radios have a removable face, allowing you to mount the body of the radio in a convenient place (under a seat, in the trunk, etc) and then only needing to mount the face itself close to the driver. This made for a very clean, elegant installation of the FT-7900R in my Jeep.
Once you have your answer for each of these three considerations, I'd say you are ready to begin selecting a radio.
(At this point, I would normally delve into listing a few specific radios. However, Yaesu has just re-vamped most of their lineup, which means some of my info is out-of-date. As a result, I'll stop here for now as far as the radios themselves are concerned.)
Rule #1: do not try using a handheld radio in your car! This is a bad idea for a whole lot of reasons: they put out very little power, your car will act like a faraday cage and block most of what little signal the radio does put out, they are bulky and bothersome when you're supposed to have your hands on the steering wheel anyway, and much more. Lots of new hams want to run out and buy a handheld as their first radio simply because they are cheap, but please take my advice and do not try using any such device as your mobile radio.
I'm going assume you've wisely decided not to use a handheld in your car, and are now instead considering a radio which was designed for mobile use. What should you buy? Well, you have many options. Rather than blindly suggesting one specific radio, I will instead introduce three considerations for you to ponder... and once you do, your answer should be pretty clear.
First consideration: which brand? I think you should stick to a quality brand name radio. In the last few years, a number of Chinese companies have jumped into the ham radio market. As a general rule, these radios have one common attraction: low price. However, think twice before grabbing your wallet, because these Chinese radios also share a number of common drawbacks: low power output, difficult operation, very shoddy documentation, poor signal output, and more. An experienced ham with lots of patience will often push through all these drawbacks and force themselves to deal with it, but new hams will most often quickly become frustrated and discouraged, sometimes to the point of giving up on the hobby. Don't be that guy. Buy a quality radio from the get-go and you'll be far happier, I promise. As they say: buying a quality, more costly product only hurts once (ie, when you spend the money) but buying a cheap, inferior product hurts every day you use it.
What are some quality brands? Experienced hams generally stick to the "big three" well-known Japanese names: Yaesu, Kenwood and Icom. Some ham operators are fiercely loyal to one of these companies; other operators readily buy equipment from all three. Of these three brands, I personally have so far only purchased Yaesu ham radios--and I've been delighted with them all. Because of this, I will only suggest Yaesu radios below. However, I have full confidence in just about any radio from Kenwood or Icom. Feel free to study each brand, decide which one has the look/design/layout you like best, and go with that. I am certain any radio from these three brands will offer more user satisfaction than any Chinese model.
Second consideration: single band verses dual-band (or multi-band). Ham radio has a number of frequency ranges ("bands") available, depending on your license. For a variety of reasons, the two meter band (2m) is the one most commonly used in mobile installations. As a result, the lowest entry-level mobile radios will operate on 2m only. As your budget increases, one or two steps up the ladder of capability will result in dual-band radios that operate on 2m and 70cm (often also called "440"). As you spend even more, you'll see multi-band radios that operate on 2m, 70cm, plus 6m and 10m. How many bands do you need? Well, that's sort of a regional thing. It might be a good idea to ask around and see what experienced hams in your area have to say on the matter. For example, 70cm is commonly used here in Utah; however, I've spoken with ham operators out east who say 70cm is virtually silent and largely useless in their area.
Some people would tell you not to stress too much about this, particularly when you're new to the hobby. To a certain extent, I agree--I really don't think there is a strong case for a four-band mobile radio which isn't an all-mode, all-band dedicated HF unit. However, I still think you ought to put some thought into single band (2m) verses dual band (2m + 70cm), and here's why: the first mobile radio I bought (for my commuter car) was a 2m-only FT-2900R. I chose it because it was significantly cheaper than a dual-band radio. Six months later when I wanted another radio for my Jeep, I splurged and bought a dual-band FT-7900R solely because I needed a removable face. I quickly fell in love with the 70cm capability--plus some other benefits that radio had compared to the FT-2900R--so I sold that 2900 (for less than I paid for it, obviously) and then bought another FT-7900R to replace it. Had I simply bought a 7900 in the first place, I would have spent less money overall. So, again, think about what you really want before you make a purchase--it can save you money in the long run.
Third consideration: ease of installation in your specific vehicle. This idea encompasses two aspects: physical size of the radio, and remote mount capability. Radio size is an obvious thing; as you look around your vehicle for a place to mount your soon-to-be-purchased radio, it is easy enough to take some measurements and see where it can fit. Is your car short on space? Not to worry--that's why some radios offer remote mount capability. Such radios have a removable face, allowing you to mount the body of the radio in a convenient place (under a seat, in the trunk, etc) and then only needing to mount the face itself close to the driver. This made for a very clean, elegant installation of the FT-7900R in my Jeep.
Once you have your answer for each of these three considerations, I'd say you are ready to begin selecting a radio.
(At this point, I would normally delve into listing a few specific radios. However, Yaesu has just re-vamped most of their lineup, which means some of my info is out-of-date. As a result, I'll stop here for now as far as the radios themselves are concerned.)
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
But, wait... there's more!
So you've made your decision and placed an order for a radio. You're not out of the woods yet. Now you need to purchase an antenna, a cable to connect it to your radio, and--depending where/how you intend to install the antenna--perhaps a mounting bracket. Let's start at the top.
Choosing an antenna
While there are many different styles of antennas that can work, I am going to simplify this part of my recommendation and narrow down your choices to two general (dual-band) designs: a 1/4 wave 2m type (which will be around 18" tall) or a 1/2 wave 2m type (which will be around 36" tall). The mathematical genius hams will endlessly discuss the differences between these designs, and they'll tell you how the output patterns differ. While they would be exactly correct, let me save you the trouble: if at all possible, choose the taller 1/2 wave design. Having run both types, I have enjoyed better performance with the 1/2 wave than I have with a 1/4 wave... and I think the majority of people across the country would have a similar experience.
Just like I suggested with the radio, I will also recommend you select a quality brand antenna. Here, however, I will go further and recommend a specific 1/2 wave model: the Larsen NMO-2/70B. Reasonably priced at $70 at HamRadio.com, this antenna offers proven performance and ruggedness. Even if your radio only operates on 2m, buying a dual-band antenna is still a wise choice. If you ever change your mind in the future and upgrade to a dual-band radio--like I did--you'll already have the antenna for it.
If for some reason you absolutely cannot fit a 1/2 wave antenna, only then should you choose a smaller 1/4 wave antenna. Yes, this will save you a little money... but consider this: the antenna (and its installation) is the single most important part of any ham radio system! This is where spending a few extra dollars will greatly increase your radio's performance, and it really is worth the stretch. An old ham radio rule of thumb states: a poor radio with an excellent antenna will outperform an excellent radio with a poor antenna. Once again, don't be that guy. Unless it is absolutely impossible, use a Larsen NMO-2/70B 1/2 wave antenna. Trust me.
There is one more aspect about the antenna you must decide: how will it attach to your car? You have two choices: a permanent mount antenna, or a magnet-mounted antenna. A permanent mount antenna will have a threaded fitting at the bottom; it must be screwed onto a matching antenna mount. A mag mount antenna will have a large base with a magnet at the bottom, allowing one to simply plop it onto the car's sheet metal.
Once again, I'll get right to the point: mag mount antennas are for temporary use only... and by temporary, I mean a time span of a few days at the very most. If you're going to leave the antenna in place longer than that--and that's the whole point of this web page--then you do not want to use a mag mount. Instead, get a proper antenna and a proper mount and attach it to your car in the proper fashion. There are a few different mount types; the one you want is called an NMO mount.
Depending where you mount the antenna, this might mean drilling a small hole in your car. Upon hearing this, new hams typically gasp, "are you kidding?!? There is no way I'm going to ruin my car in such a manner! I'll just use a harmless mag mount antenna instead." I've got news for you: magnet mounts are not harmless. They are exactly the opposite, in fact. Over time, a magnet mount will move around a bit. Even worse, a magnet mount allows for tiny dirt particles to get between the magnet and your car's sheet metal... and then when the magnet moves slightly, these particles act like sandpaper and chafe the finish. After just a few months, there will be a permanent scar which will require professional paint work to repair. If you shy away from drilling a hole because you don't want to cause permanent damage, or you're worried about a loss of future resale value, using a mag mount is not the answer... so why not just install a proper NMO mount? If you ever do sell the car, just remove the antenna (but leave the cable and mount) and then tell the next buyer the car is pre-wired for a two-way radio. In all probability, they won't even care.
There is an even more important reason to avoid a mag mount antenna: the cable. If you plop a mag mount antenna on your car's exterior, you've got to get its attached cable into your car's interior. This inevitably means you run it through a trunk opening, or a hatchback opening, or a door opening. In all these cases, that means the cable will be crushed slightly every time the trunk/hatch/door is closed. As it turns out, coax cable hates being crushed. Do it often enough over time and the internal antenna wire will be compromised... until it finally breaks (or shorts). This won't seem like a big deal until the next time you key up your radio; trying to transmit without an antenna attached will usually cause internal failure of a ham radio. In this scenario, you'd have to buy a new antenna and a new ham radio.
Once again, don't be that guy! Route the cable properly into your car's interior. In most cases, this will involve drilling a small hole somewhere on your car. And since you're going to be doing that anyway, why not just purchase a proper NMO antenna mount and attach a proper antenna to it?
Proper antenna placement
Now that you have a proper NMO antenna, you need to install it on your car. But where? This is actually extremely important, because where you mount your antenna will greatly influence its effectiveness. In order from best to worst performance, here are three locations for you to consider:
-center of the roof
-center of the trunk lid
-on either front fender
For many reasons, the center of the roof is by far the best place to install your antenna. Some cars might not allow this location due to having a power sunroof, or rear air conditioning, or maybe even because of the side curtain air bags. If the roof is a no-go, your next-best option is the center of the trunk. Best results will again require drilling a hole, but don't let this scare you--I did it to my car, and you can do it to yours, too. Because that car had a power sunroof, I had to skip the rooftop mounting option and thus I went for the trunklid. I chose a small 1/4 wave antenna because, at the time, I thought it didn't matter very much (I was still learning). This antenna arrangement did indeed seem to work fine, so I was happy... until the day I did a side-by-side test with my Jeep. (More on that in a minute.)
But what if your roof option is out and you cannot mount your antenna on the trunk? For example, maybe your car is a hatchback or an SUV which doesn't have a trunk at all. In that case, you can look at your third and final option, one of the front fenders. I had to do this on my Wrangler, because (1) it has no roof and (2) it has no trunk lid. Since my Jeep does have a small piece of horizontal fender steel, I decided to drill a hole and mount the antenna there.
It is common for Jeeps to mount the antenna much closer to the windshield. I decided to push mine out and keep it as far away from the windshield frame as possible. My thought process was simple: I wanted to minimize the windshield "blocking" the antenna's output. To date, this setup has proven to perform very well. As an added bonus, the flexible nature of this antenna has not caused any problems when it contacts tree branches, nearby rock walls or overhangs, etc when I am out Jeeping.
And now a word on performance. After installing the FT-7900R in my Jeep and then later upgrading my commuter car's radio to another identical FT-7900R, I gradually began realizing that the Jeep's radio performed better--it seemed to hit distant repeaters with a better/stronger signal than my car's radio did. I eventually did a side-by-side test in my own driveway, wherein I observed a need to increase my car's radio output power so it could hit repeaters that my Jeep's radio could hit on low power output. The only differences between the two vehicles were the antenna style used (1/2 wave verses 1/4 wave, with the Jeep being better) and its location (trunk lid verses fender, with the car being better). Long story short, this is when I became a big fan of using a 1/2 wave antenna rather than a 1/4 wave, and that's why I made this same recommendation to you.
Back to fender mounting an antenna. Most of you won't have flat fenders on your car like my Jeep. In the majority of cases, mounting an antenna at a front fender will require a bracket attached to the fender channel. This is how I had to setup my Suburban, since the rear A/C eliminated the roof as an option and there is no trunk. Due to their common use by law enforcement, my Suburban has a vehicle-specific bracket that I found. If your car isn't commonly used by the cops and thus you can't find a custom bracket for it, don't fret. Just get a universal one.
Depending which exact mount you choose and where you buy it, it will only cost you around $10-$15. One last word of advice: if you're going to mount your antenna on a bracket rather than directly in the center of a flat piece of steel--in other words, if you're mounting it on a fender rather than on the trunk lid or the roof--then make sure you only use a 1/2 wave antenna. The performance of a shorter 1/4 wave antenna is significantly compromised if it is not sitting in the center of a flat piece of steel; taller 1/2 wave antennas seem to be more forgiving in this regard.
Antenna cable
Now that you have an antenna (and a bracket, if needed), the last item you need is the cable to connect the antenna to your radio. You can easily find NMO-style cables where you buy your radio; just ask them for RG58 cable (not RG58/U). A 17-foot cable will typically cost you about $20. Some cables have the radio-end fitting (called a PL-259 connector) already attached; others ship with this connector loose in the bag and require you to attach it to the cable with a soldering iron. It is actually an advantage to attach the connector yourself, for two reasons. First, it is easier to route the skinny RG58 cable through a hole in the firewall than it is with the large connector already on the cable. Second, if the connector is not yet installed then you can easily cut the cable to length and thus avoid having lots of excess antenna cable (which is undesirable for multiple reasons I won't go in to now).
Have you never used a soldering iron in your life? If not, now's your chance to learn how to use one! Seriously, it is very simple to attach the connector to the cable; you can find a number of YouTube videos which show just how easy it is. If you watch a video and you're still worried, I'm sure you can find a local ham who would be willing to assist you.
That's about all you need to know to purchase a quality ham radio system for your car. I hope to hear you on the airwaves someday!
So you've made your decision and placed an order for a radio. You're not out of the woods yet. Now you need to purchase an antenna, a cable to connect it to your radio, and--depending where/how you intend to install the antenna--perhaps a mounting bracket. Let's start at the top.
Choosing an antenna
While there are many different styles of antennas that can work, I am going to simplify this part of my recommendation and narrow down your choices to two general (dual-band) designs: a 1/4 wave 2m type (which will be around 18" tall) or a 1/2 wave 2m type (which will be around 36" tall). The mathematical genius hams will endlessly discuss the differences between these designs, and they'll tell you how the output patterns differ. While they would be exactly correct, let me save you the trouble: if at all possible, choose the taller 1/2 wave design. Having run both types, I have enjoyed better performance with the 1/2 wave than I have with a 1/4 wave... and I think the majority of people across the country would have a similar experience.
Just like I suggested with the radio, I will also recommend you select a quality brand antenna. Here, however, I will go further and recommend a specific 1/2 wave model: the Larsen NMO-2/70B. Reasonably priced at $70 at HamRadio.com, this antenna offers proven performance and ruggedness. Even if your radio only operates on 2m, buying a dual-band antenna is still a wise choice. If you ever change your mind in the future and upgrade to a dual-band radio--like I did--you'll already have the antenna for it.
If for some reason you absolutely cannot fit a 1/2 wave antenna, only then should you choose a smaller 1/4 wave antenna. Yes, this will save you a little money... but consider this: the antenna (and its installation) is the single most important part of any ham radio system! This is where spending a few extra dollars will greatly increase your radio's performance, and it really is worth the stretch. An old ham radio rule of thumb states: a poor radio with an excellent antenna will outperform an excellent radio with a poor antenna. Once again, don't be that guy. Unless it is absolutely impossible, use a Larsen NMO-2/70B 1/2 wave antenna. Trust me.
There is one more aspect about the antenna you must decide: how will it attach to your car? You have two choices: a permanent mount antenna, or a magnet-mounted antenna. A permanent mount antenna will have a threaded fitting at the bottom; it must be screwed onto a matching antenna mount. A mag mount antenna will have a large base with a magnet at the bottom, allowing one to simply plop it onto the car's sheet metal.
Once again, I'll get right to the point: mag mount antennas are for temporary use only... and by temporary, I mean a time span of a few days at the very most. If you're going to leave the antenna in place longer than that--and that's the whole point of this web page--then you do not want to use a mag mount. Instead, get a proper antenna and a proper mount and attach it to your car in the proper fashion. There are a few different mount types; the one you want is called an NMO mount.
Depending where you mount the antenna, this might mean drilling a small hole in your car. Upon hearing this, new hams typically gasp, "are you kidding?!? There is no way I'm going to ruin my car in such a manner! I'll just use a harmless mag mount antenna instead." I've got news for you: magnet mounts are not harmless. They are exactly the opposite, in fact. Over time, a magnet mount will move around a bit. Even worse, a magnet mount allows for tiny dirt particles to get between the magnet and your car's sheet metal... and then when the magnet moves slightly, these particles act like sandpaper and chafe the finish. After just a few months, there will be a permanent scar which will require professional paint work to repair. If you shy away from drilling a hole because you don't want to cause permanent damage, or you're worried about a loss of future resale value, using a mag mount is not the answer... so why not just install a proper NMO mount? If you ever do sell the car, just remove the antenna (but leave the cable and mount) and then tell the next buyer the car is pre-wired for a two-way radio. In all probability, they won't even care.
There is an even more important reason to avoid a mag mount antenna: the cable. If you plop a mag mount antenna on your car's exterior, you've got to get its attached cable into your car's interior. This inevitably means you run it through a trunk opening, or a hatchback opening, or a door opening. In all these cases, that means the cable will be crushed slightly every time the trunk/hatch/door is closed. As it turns out, coax cable hates being crushed. Do it often enough over time and the internal antenna wire will be compromised... until it finally breaks (or shorts). This won't seem like a big deal until the next time you key up your radio; trying to transmit without an antenna attached will usually cause internal failure of a ham radio. In this scenario, you'd have to buy a new antenna and a new ham radio.
Once again, don't be that guy! Route the cable properly into your car's interior. In most cases, this will involve drilling a small hole somewhere on your car. And since you're going to be doing that anyway, why not just purchase a proper NMO antenna mount and attach a proper antenna to it?
Proper antenna placement
Now that you have a proper NMO antenna, you need to install it on your car. But where? This is actually extremely important, because where you mount your antenna will greatly influence its effectiveness. In order from best to worst performance, here are three locations for you to consider:
-center of the roof
-center of the trunk lid
-on either front fender
For many reasons, the center of the roof is by far the best place to install your antenna. Some cars might not allow this location due to having a power sunroof, or rear air conditioning, or maybe even because of the side curtain air bags. If the roof is a no-go, your next-best option is the center of the trunk. Best results will again require drilling a hole, but don't let this scare you--I did it to my car, and you can do it to yours, too. Because that car had a power sunroof, I had to skip the rooftop mounting option and thus I went for the trunklid. I chose a small 1/4 wave antenna because, at the time, I thought it didn't matter very much (I was still learning). This antenna arrangement did indeed seem to work fine, so I was happy... until the day I did a side-by-side test with my Jeep. (More on that in a minute.)
But what if your roof option is out and you cannot mount your antenna on the trunk? For example, maybe your car is a hatchback or an SUV which doesn't have a trunk at all. In that case, you can look at your third and final option, one of the front fenders. I had to do this on my Wrangler, because (1) it has no roof and (2) it has no trunk lid. Since my Jeep does have a small piece of horizontal fender steel, I decided to drill a hole and mount the antenna there.
It is common for Jeeps to mount the antenna much closer to the windshield. I decided to push mine out and keep it as far away from the windshield frame as possible. My thought process was simple: I wanted to minimize the windshield "blocking" the antenna's output. To date, this setup has proven to perform very well. As an added bonus, the flexible nature of this antenna has not caused any problems when it contacts tree branches, nearby rock walls or overhangs, etc when I am out Jeeping.
And now a word on performance. After installing the FT-7900R in my Jeep and then later upgrading my commuter car's radio to another identical FT-7900R, I gradually began realizing that the Jeep's radio performed better--it seemed to hit distant repeaters with a better/stronger signal than my car's radio did. I eventually did a side-by-side test in my own driveway, wherein I observed a need to increase my car's radio output power so it could hit repeaters that my Jeep's radio could hit on low power output. The only differences between the two vehicles were the antenna style used (1/2 wave verses 1/4 wave, with the Jeep being better) and its location (trunk lid verses fender, with the car being better). Long story short, this is when I became a big fan of using a 1/2 wave antenna rather than a 1/4 wave, and that's why I made this same recommendation to you.
Back to fender mounting an antenna. Most of you won't have flat fenders on your car like my Jeep. In the majority of cases, mounting an antenna at a front fender will require a bracket attached to the fender channel. This is how I had to setup my Suburban, since the rear A/C eliminated the roof as an option and there is no trunk. Due to their common use by law enforcement, my Suburban has a vehicle-specific bracket that I found. If your car isn't commonly used by the cops and thus you can't find a custom bracket for it, don't fret. Just get a universal one.
Depending which exact mount you choose and where you buy it, it will only cost you around $10-$15. One last word of advice: if you're going to mount your antenna on a bracket rather than directly in the center of a flat piece of steel--in other words, if you're mounting it on a fender rather than on the trunk lid or the roof--then make sure you only use a 1/2 wave antenna. The performance of a shorter 1/4 wave antenna is significantly compromised if it is not sitting in the center of a flat piece of steel; taller 1/2 wave antennas seem to be more forgiving in this regard.
Antenna cable
Now that you have an antenna (and a bracket, if needed), the last item you need is the cable to connect the antenna to your radio. You can easily find NMO-style cables where you buy your radio; just ask them for RG58 cable (not RG58/U). A 17-foot cable will typically cost you about $20. Some cables have the radio-end fitting (called a PL-259 connector) already attached; others ship with this connector loose in the bag and require you to attach it to the cable with a soldering iron. It is actually an advantage to attach the connector yourself, for two reasons. First, it is easier to route the skinny RG58 cable through a hole in the firewall than it is with the large connector already on the cable. Second, if the connector is not yet installed then you can easily cut the cable to length and thus avoid having lots of excess antenna cable (which is undesirable for multiple reasons I won't go in to now).
Have you never used a soldering iron in your life? If not, now's your chance to learn how to use one! Seriously, it is very simple to attach the connector to the cable; you can find a number of YouTube videos which show just how easy it is. If you watch a video and you're still worried, I'm sure you can find a local ham who would be willing to assist you.
That's about all you need to know to purchase a quality ham radio system for your car. I hope to hear you on the airwaves someday!
- Location
- The Village of Kay
Thanks for the great info Dempsey! I was hoping you would chime in.
For my purposes, I am definitely getting a mobile unit to install in my vehicle, but I am not sure I am ready to do that right now as I am undecided on long term vehicle use...
When considering my motivation for getting licensed at all, it is (at least initially) for communication while on the trail with the group I am traveling with. Super long range isn't my biggest concern just yet, so a HT with a better antenna and hands free extras is where I am leaning. That way, I can mount an antenna on each of my rigs and then take the radio from one to another until I decide on my dedicated off-road rig and buy a permanent radio for that rig.
While you have successfully convinced me to stray from the cheap Chinese radios, i am not sure what name brand HT to look at. The features still don't make a lot of sense to me (being a total noob to all of this), and I am operating under a budget.
Most of the info still doesn't make a ton of sense, and I have a crap ton of studying to do to pass the test tomorrow night, but I do really appreciate all of the great info!
For my purposes, I am definitely getting a mobile unit to install in my vehicle, but I am not sure I am ready to do that right now as I am undecided on long term vehicle use...
When considering my motivation for getting licensed at all, it is (at least initially) for communication while on the trail with the group I am traveling with. Super long range isn't my biggest concern just yet, so a HT with a better antenna and hands free extras is where I am leaning. That way, I can mount an antenna on each of my rigs and then take the radio from one to another until I decide on my dedicated off-road rig and buy a permanent radio for that rig.
While you have successfully convinced me to stray from the cheap Chinese radios, i am not sure what name brand HT to look at. The features still don't make a lot of sense to me (being a total noob to all of this), and I am operating under a budget.
Most of the info still doesn't make a ton of sense, and I have a crap ton of studying to do to pass the test tomorrow night, but I do really appreciate all of the great info!
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
The Yaesu aren't that permanent. I have mine on a "quick" disconnect (electrical, coax and side lugs) with a permanent antenna in each rig.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
Not a bad idea, and I did this exact same thing back when I was daily driving my Protege. I ended up going a step further: I bought a second radio bracket and power cables, and installed those in the Suburban (along with its own antenna, of course). I left the radio in the Protege most of the time, and would move it to the Suburban when the need arose. With the bracket and cables already in both vehicles, moving the radio was a simple matter of removing four screws in one car, then inserting them (with the radio) in the other. It only took me a couple of minutes.
Don't worry about all this radio stuff for now. Just focus on your test. Once that hurdle is cleared, we'll worry about installing a radio.