How to make a Range Rover reliable?
- Throw away the Air suspension better known as EAS (electronic air suspension
- Never ever overheat the engine
- Keep the fluids topped up
- Change the fluids regularly according to the service manual
- Work on it yourself, never trust anyone else to work on it unless they are like me. Anal and know how to work on it.
- Replace things before they completely break.
- Use regular low grade gas, no matter what anyone says, this is an engine designed in the 1950's and couldn't give a crap as long as it burns.
- If there is a coolant leak, fix it ASAP
- Use whatever oils you like, DINO or Synthetic. I like synthetic because I don't have to change my oil every month.
- Drive it, The worst thing you can do to any European car is let it sit in the garage. Its meant to be driven.
Realize this is not going to be a hard-core rock crawler. This is an extremely capable adventure vehicle. Smart upgrades will make it very capable.
Some parts can be expensive. But if you are resourceful you can find deals, and it really won't cost you much more then running a Toyota.
The most expensive items I have had to replace are:
- Radiator $350
- Underhood Fuse Box $250
- Windshield $1100 (replaced 3 times now by insurance, so total cost to me $300)
- Heater Blend Motors $450 (found some on eBay for $80 used, slapped them in and now i have heat or AC whenever I want)
- Heater Core $350 (found an Audi Heater core that fit with some minor modifications to hoses and some trimming. It'll never leak again and cost me $100 to convert)
- Fuel Injectors $1200 (found a part number reference that a Ford Escort used the same injectors. Found 8 on eBay with the right part number rebuilt for $125)
I bought it with 89K miles on it. and now 3.5 years later i have almost 140K miles on it. It burns about .5 quarts of oil over a 10000 mile oil change.
These trucks are built well. Very strong frame and very strong axles. The suspension has very good travel with longer shocks and removal of the front swaybar. You can buy poly-bushings for the radius arms that will help the suspension flex even more. I'm running these in the front.
I think the 2nd gen of my vehicle model is the best 1999-2002. It has Bosch fuel management, more horsepower, better economy and better torque ratings. The transmissions are better in my model as well, stronger then the older versions. Towing capacity is about 7500 lbs. I've towed 10K without much issue, other then it goes a little slower up hills.
I have not added any armor other then welding some plate over the front diff cover. That way I can bash that into rocks and not worry about putting a hole in it.
There is a fair amount of parts out there. but you have to do some research if you want to do custom stuff like I have. Not a lot of people use the spring and shock combo that I use. But I prefer the extra load capacity and a little firmer ride on the interstate.
