_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Oh it's the fanciest of fancies and they have Gucci symbols in place of electrodes 🤘
The Trailantula
- Thread starter _Auzzy_
- Start date
Oh it's the fanciest of fancies and they have Gucci symbols in place of electrodes 🤘
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Allright more motor prep! Main reason it's in the spotlight is cause alot of the chassis will be built around its position. Ideally it's gonna be up close and personal to the front diff as possible at full bump (where the axle is currently set at in its fixtures in previous pics) so once the motor is all together we can start slinging metal 🤘
Allright first things first, tear it down, clean it up, throw it back together. Always leave it better than ya found it right? Well hopefully I've done that in this case. New gaskets in the top end should help a previous oil leak situation and some new painted pieces oughta help it feel prettier and get some extra eagle screams out the tail pipe when we're done. Did a 4 point steam line kit on it as well, they're proven to help these older ls motors run cooler on the back ports so a worth while investment in my opinion. Did some new ac Delco knock sensors and a Dorman wiring kit as well. Had that on my last buggy with no issues so hopefully it's the same luck here.
All purty. Stupid fun fact, LM4 motors did not come with the conventional through the block dipstick like other LS motors. Instead they went into the pan, so if anyone gets a hold of one of these there still is a lug on the passenger side of the block you drill with a 3/8 bit and a conventional dipstick goes in nice and snug 👍
On to the stuff that will turn you....left and right. Running a goat built bracket kit to help move the pump and alternator to a more desirable to me location but needs modified to run the pump I'm experimenting with. Here's said science project, a hydraulic gear pump adapted to our lifestyles. Did some research and talked to a sales guy for quite a bit before settling down on this one. Single stage 11gpm pump with a safe speed of 3800rpms and max rpm of 7k.
Fitted it with the pulley setup and it's all kinds of bling
Now to get it on the brackets, they're originally for a cbr pump which if you can imagine is slightly smaller. So here's a stencil for the amount of material I need to remove for the pump. Need to also weld a tab back on for the lower bolt.
After a quick hit with the holesaw in the mill she's all ready 👌 only issue I'm having now is the spacing of the pump/block/pulley alignment. Stay tuned.
Allright first things first, tear it down, clean it up, throw it back together. Always leave it better than ya found it right? Well hopefully I've done that in this case. New gaskets in the top end should help a previous oil leak situation and some new painted pieces oughta help it feel prettier and get some extra eagle screams out the tail pipe when we're done. Did a 4 point steam line kit on it as well, they're proven to help these older ls motors run cooler on the back ports so a worth while investment in my opinion. Did some new ac Delco knock sensors and a Dorman wiring kit as well. Had that on my last buggy with no issues so hopefully it's the same luck here.
All purty. Stupid fun fact, LM4 motors did not come with the conventional through the block dipstick like other LS motors. Instead they went into the pan, so if anyone gets a hold of one of these there still is a lug on the passenger side of the block you drill with a 3/8 bit and a conventional dipstick goes in nice and snug 👍
On to the stuff that will turn you....left and right. Running a goat built bracket kit to help move the pump and alternator to a more desirable to me location but needs modified to run the pump I'm experimenting with. Here's said science project, a hydraulic gear pump adapted to our lifestyles. Did some research and talked to a sales guy for quite a bit before settling down on this one. Single stage 11gpm pump with a safe speed of 3800rpms and max rpm of 7k.
Fitted it with the pulley setup and it's all kinds of bling
Now to get it on the brackets, they're originally for a cbr pump which if you can imagine is slightly smaller. So here's a stencil for the amount of material I need to remove for the pump. Need to also weld a tab back on for the lower bolt.
After a quick hit with the holesaw in the mill she's all ready 👌 only issue I'm having now is the spacing of the pump/block/pulley alignment. Stay tuned.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
Is that pump going to require an external regulator?
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Correct I'll have to run an inline pressure reducer/bypass which I'll have set at 2000psi.
Here's a diagram of what that will look like
Last edited:
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Allright getting the pump issue fixed! Here's the story! First I had option A here, the original plan of mounting it up to the goat built bracket, I liked this option cause it kept the pumpmlow which will give me better options on reservoir dimensions and size, with minimum being a gallon. So first thing first, get the pulley attached so I can line it all up and start figuring out the brackets.
First had to file out the key way and then I added a size 10 set screw to the opposite side since the pump shaft had a cut flat spot for one👌
Mmmm blining
Now here was the current dilemma. The pump wouldn't fit into the brackets due the massive body so here's the two options i came up with.
Option A was to cut out a chunk and weld it in like so
I tossed this idea after the thoughts of how much would be welded and the amount of warpage that qould wreak havoc down the road. So here's option B, make a bracket that bolts to the existing holes and space the pump back a little, add a spacer behind the pulley, then add a rear housing support bracket.
Some quick scissoring and this is what I came up with. It would be cut out of 1/8" plate since it was only supporting the up n down action and the rear support would be handling the torque from the belt.
So after all this said n done I decided to take a break and go b.s. with Cory n Geoff while they tinker on race car stuff.
First had to file out the key way and then I added a size 10 set screw to the opposite side since the pump shaft had a cut flat spot for one👌
Mmmm blining
Now here was the current dilemma. The pump wouldn't fit into the brackets due the massive body so here's the two options i came up with.
Option A was to cut out a chunk and weld it in like so
I tossed this idea after the thoughts of how much would be welded and the amount of warpage that qould wreak havoc down the road. So here's option B, make a bracket that bolts to the existing holes and space the pump back a little, add a spacer behind the pulley, then add a rear housing support bracket.
Some quick scissoring and this is what I came up with. It would be cut out of 1/8" plate since it was only supporting the up n down action and the rear support would be handling the torque from the belt.
So after all this said n done I decided to take a break and go b.s. with Cory n Geoff while they tinker on race car stuff.
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
So after we got back to Cory's shop we gandered at my creation for a minute then decided to throw it out. We came to the conclusion that in the lower mount it won't flow right for the subchassis idea we have dreamt up even with it being moved up and out. So that's where we came up with the idea of moving it to the other side of the motor but keep it low as possible and tucked in to the block.
First was setting it into place and inline with the dampner. Nice straight piece of square tube, some clamps, and a small spacer piece so the ribs are inline as well and bam, she's where I wanted it. Also used a straight edge off the pulleys to check the belt had clearance around it. It will have roughly 5/8" in between the belt and the thermostat housing, so minus a 1/4" thick hose that'd give me roughly 3/8 of slapping room.
So now on to brackets
Quick sketch of how the front will be
I find being able to take a pic and doodle the brackets helped me figure how I wanted it to look. Here's the final card cad
Inserted into place
Bolting the front off the water pump, have to machine some spacers and get new bolts.
All I got so far for tonight. I'll get the front mounted up all tight like then I'll make a rear plate that'll bolt to the head and to two of the bolts on the rear of the pump.
And here's some more dumb fun ls tips n tricks for ya.
The rear of the intake has the vacuum port for a brake booster. Simply break it out and a 1/2 npt plug fits it perfect. Throw some silicone on it and screw it in nice n gentle.
Next is the hole in the front of intake for the valve, a 1/2"x1/2" bolt fits beautifully. Silicone it and send it home
Yes I got bored and pulled my throttle body apart and painted the throttle lever or whatever it's called.
First was setting it into place and inline with the dampner. Nice straight piece of square tube, some clamps, and a small spacer piece so the ribs are inline as well and bam, she's where I wanted it. Also used a straight edge off the pulleys to check the belt had clearance around it. It will have roughly 5/8" in between the belt and the thermostat housing, so minus a 1/4" thick hose that'd give me roughly 3/8 of slapping room.
So now on to brackets
Quick sketch of how the front will be
I find being able to take a pic and doodle the brackets helped me figure how I wanted it to look. Here's the final card cad
Inserted into place
Bolting the front off the water pump, have to machine some spacers and get new bolts.
All I got so far for tonight. I'll get the front mounted up all tight like then I'll make a rear plate that'll bolt to the head and to two of the bolts on the rear of the pump.
And here's some more dumb fun ls tips n tricks for ya.
The rear of the intake has the vacuum port for a brake booster. Simply break it out and a 1/2 npt plug fits it perfect. Throw some silicone on it and screw it in nice n gentle.
Next is the hole in the front of intake for the valve, a 1/2"x1/2" bolt fits beautifully. Silicone it and send it home
Yes I got bored and pulled my throttle body apart and painted the throttle lever or whatever it's called.
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Allright, pump is mounted up, well soon as I get bolts tomorrow. Got my brackets all made and spacers machined up 👌👌 super excited for this cause no I feel once I get the tensioner on I can finally place the motor where it needs to be and we can start moving forward.
Front plate all cut and bolted in.
Then got rhe rear mount made and spacers built. Uses the pump housing bolts, have to go find 1" longer ones
Made sure when I was building this that the rear bolts had plenty of space to pull out
So happy with this setup
And just for fun and such a pto cover for the np 205, plan to throw it in the mill and customize it up a little.
Front plate all cut and bolted in.
Then got rhe rear mount made and spacers built. Uses the pump housing bolts, have to go find 1" longer ones
Made sure when I was building this that the rear bolts had plenty of space to pull out
So happy with this setup
And just for fun and such a pto cover for the np 205, plan to throw it in the mill and customize it up a little.
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Not a huge update but here's something. Spent most of the night getting the shop cleaned up, in the process got rhe mock up trans out of the lunar bay and found some bolts for it. Got bolts for the pump and tightened it down 100% then threw a belt on and it looks good n straight 👌 gotta figure out a tensioner now, talked with the sales rep at goat built and got the part number for the one I used on my last kit from them and I'll hopefully get that tracked down soon.
Then from there I started hacking on my np205...literally. till the grinder wheel caught, ripped the grinder out of my hands, and broke the last bit of the casting chunk off molesting a bolt hole 😬
And as with all my updates here's where my a.d.d lead me to tonight. While cleaning I grabbed some of my 5 gallon vp jugs and made myself a brand for them.
Then from there I started hacking on my np205...literally. till the grinder wheel caught, ripped the grinder out of my hands, and broke the last bit of the casting chunk off molesting a bolt hole 😬
And as with all my updates here's where my a.d.d lead me to tonight. While cleaning I grabbed some of my 5 gallon vp jugs and made myself a brand for them.
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Aight back from vacation, time to hit it.
Modified the goat brackets yet again lol least after this we'll have a bracket system designed etc. Got a tensioner for the setup and after staring at it for a minute with cory we got a new belt routing figured and got to work on the tensioner and idler placement. Drilled two holes in the goat bracket where the tensioner cleared stuff and then moved the tensioner up a little. After seeing that the tensioner didn't have enough throw to fit that spot. So hit the drawing board and came up with a new face plate.
Molested goat built bracket
New plate
And one click plas-table magic
And ta-dur
Oh and decided to make some new spacers for the bracket so I didn't have a bunch of random spacers
Modified the goat brackets yet again lol least after this we'll have a bracket system designed etc. Got a tensioner for the setup and after staring at it for a minute with cory we got a new belt routing figured and got to work on the tensioner and idler placement. Drilled two holes in the goat bracket where the tensioner cleared stuff and then moved the tensioner up a little. After seeing that the tensioner didn't have enough throw to fit that spot. So hit the drawing board and came up with a new face plate.
Molested goat built bracket
New plate
And one click plas-table magic
And ta-dur
Oh and decided to make some new spacers for the bracket so I didn't have a bunch of random spacers
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Allright got the ball rolling!
Got the front of the motor stripped again and brackets ready for powder coating. Gonna try to get little crap like this powdered or painted as I go so tear down etc isn't as long. Also got the steering wheel drilled for the new quick release and Cory tigged up some pieces on it that needed it.
Next thing I did was go for the 205, took it down to Cory's other shop and through it on the mill to level off the base cut I did with the grinder of death.
Next we went back to the home shop for some preheating, plate fab, and tig!
Just Beautiful as can be 👌
Hoping to get the steering arms done and possibly the rear C's in place this week before I have to to go do army fun time.
Got the front of the motor stripped again and brackets ready for powder coating. Gonna try to get little crap like this powdered or painted as I go so tear down etc isn't as long. Also got the steering wheel drilled for the new quick release and Cory tigged up some pieces on it that needed it.
Next thing I did was go for the 205, took it down to Cory's other shop and through it on the mill to level off the base cut I did with the grinder of death.
Next we went back to the home shop for some preheating, plate fab, and tig!
Just Beautiful as can be 👌
Hoping to get the steering arms done and possibly the rear C's in place this week before I have to to go do army fun time.
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Heart-shaped rear wheels are a bold choice! 😂
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Trying to one up whistlingdiesel in the ridiculous wheel game
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
More nonsense that makes sense.
Hubs n rotors drilled to 8x6.5 tonight along with all steering parts cut out and getting a little acid bath before being burned alive.
Hubs were easy but time consuming, first ya stamp out the next pattern with this handy jig cory made and a transfer punch, then ya knock out the studs and give the hubs a good ping with an actual center punch
Then ya walk them over the mill machine 19000 and drill in some new holes. This part took the longest, right around 2 hours.
And while I was doing that Cory was over drilling rotors out to a 3/4 stud hole and then over machining bugs for steering arms
After I got the hubs all drilled it was on to cleaning and wheel studs
Ready to rock out, all Timken usa made ones too 👌 oh and got one of my steering rams in the other day
Hubs n rotors drilled to 8x6.5 tonight along with all steering parts cut out and getting a little acid bath before being burned alive.
Hubs were easy but time consuming, first ya stamp out the next pattern with this handy jig cory made and a transfer punch, then ya knock out the studs and give the hubs a good ping with an actual center punch
Then ya walk them over the mill machine 19000 and drill in some new holes. This part took the longest, right around 2 hours.
And while I was doing that Cory was over drilling rotors out to a 3/4 stud hole and then over machining bugs for steering arms
After I got the hubs all drilled it was on to cleaning and wheel studs
Ready to rock out, all Timken usa made ones too 👌 oh and got one of my steering rams in the other day
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Oh and a preview of the colors
- Location
- West Jordan
Curious why the rotors just got enlarged holes rather than re-drilling the pattern like the hubs... I assume just because it's quicker/easier and there is no need for precision since the center bore locates it?
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Exactly why 👌
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Little teaser shot from my powder guy 🤘❤️
_Auzzy_
Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
- Location
- Richfield Utah
Got my parts back from powder! Mixed the cherry illusion with gold flake clear coat 👌 pics do not do it justice
And while I was out playing army @YROC FAB. Made me some adapter sleeves from a chunk of tube from the donor 60 axle so the Cs fit the 14bolt tube 👌
For the rear we're gonna set the caster at 5* negative, top towards front, with the pinion flat as said to by the lord Jesse Haines.
And I'd love to give a shout out to Midnight4x4 guys for getting me a chunk of random tube to build my steering stops/limiters out of, they even stashed it away for me to Easter egg hunt for, great guys and service 🤘
And while I was out playing army @YROC FAB. Made me some adapter sleeves from a chunk of tube from the donor 60 axle so the Cs fit the 14bolt tube 👌
For the rear we're gonna set the caster at 5* negative, top towards front, with the pinion flat as said to by the lord Jesse Haines.
And I'd love to give a shout out to Midnight4x4 guys for getting me a chunk of random tube to build my steering stops/limiters out of, they even stashed it away for me to Easter egg hunt for, great guys and service 🤘
