Time for a Four Seater - Buggy Build
- Thread starter Herzog
- Start date
Kiel
Formerly WJ ZUK
You know that there are rubber lines inside the braided lines right?, so the braided part is just the shielding. But hey maybe garden hose would work
Tacoma
Et incurventur ante non
- Location
- far enough away
I'd go with a factory style setup, which is HARD line as far as possible. GM seems to use steel line as much as possible, with some 2' lengths of braided line up to the injectors, and some short rubber sections at the tank.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
This....
wallysheata
Registered User
- Location
- Aspen/Grand Junction, CO
I ran hard line from the pump all the way up to the injectors, the only flexable line i have is from the tank down through the filter, pump & regulator then i used the factory flex line at the injectors, all 3/8" line, seems to be the way to go from what i've read.
big cherokee
a.r.c fabrication
- Location
- layton
in my yota with the vortec swap i ran plastic high pressure fuel line from the tank up to the hard
lines that go into the injector. had to borrow special tools to press the fittings into the lines but it was pretty cheap and wont rust or anything.
lines that go into the injector. had to borrow special tools to press the fittings into the lines but it was pretty cheap and wont rust or anything.
GOAT
Back from the beyond
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
I ran a multitude of systems in my racecars and high-perf street cars and learned a few hard lessons along the way.
If possible, use a tank with a dedicated sump.
Make sure your pump is self-priming.
Do not place a filter between the tank and pump.
Mount the pump as low as possible in relation to the pickup/sump with minimal turns or length with largest ID feed line.
Stainless lines are completely safe and easier to use than cheaper aluminum hardlines.
I ran braided #8 feed, #6 return for my fuel and #10 for my aftercooler lines. At one point was running twin #6 up to #8 feed lines and dual pumps. Never one issue with leakage. Overheating was a different story
Well yeah. My point is that I don't think the steel braid alone is enough to shield from debris or possible broken drive-line parts.
Yeah, I do have flaring tools too. I think I might go this route. Thanks for the input!
I ran a multitude of systems in my racecars and high-perf street cars and learned a few hard lessons along the way.
If possible, use a tank with a dedicated sump.
Make sure your pump is self-priming.
Do not place a filter between the tank and pump.
Mount the pump as low as possible in relation to the pickup/sump with minimal turns or length with largest ID feed line.
Stainless lines are completely safe and easier to use than cheaper aluminum hardlines.
I ran braided #8 feed, #6 return for my fuel and #10 for my aftercooler lines. At one point was running twin #6 up to #8 feed lines and dual pumps. Never one issue with leakage. Overheating was a different story
I keep hearing different things about running the filter before or after the pump. Some say run it before to keep junk from killing the pump, which made sense to me. But it can also see it puting extra strain on the pump trying to pull fuel through that filter instead of pushing like it was designed to do.
I'm guessing the screens on the pickup in my new tank will be enough to take care of that problem. I didn't have anything like that in my last tank so I knew I had to have the filter before the pump. It worked great for the last 7 years that I've had it that way.
The filter is pretty large too, OEM XJ filter... so it kinda acted like a sump too. But my old tank ported out the bottom so it was pretty much gravity fed through the filter.Thanks for the advise Marcus, I really appreciate it. I didn't even think about having the pump below the pickup. Would this have any different affect since my new tank ports out the top?
GOAT
Back from the beyond
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
Well yeah. My point is that I don't think the steel braid alone is enough to shield from debris or possible broken drive-line parts.
Yeah, I do have flaring tools too. I think I might go this route. Thanks for the input!
I keep hearing different things about running the filter before or after the pump. Some say run it before to keep junk from killing the pump, which made sense to me. But it can also see it puting extra strain on the pump trying to pull fuel through that filter instead of pushing like it was designed to do.
I'm guessing the screens on the pickup in my new tank will be enough to take care of that problem. I didn't have anything like that in my last tank so I knew I had to have the filter before the pump. It worked great for the last 7 years that I've had it that way.
Thanks for the advise Marcus, I really appreciate it. I didn't even think about having the pump below the pickup. Would this have any different affect since my new tank ports out the top?
No sweat. I would still mount the pump as low as you can. You'll have the same effect as when you siphon gas.
I would also recommend buying this pump and be done with it. I ran these pierburg pumps for years without failure.
http://www.amazon.com/Pierburg-W0133-1601312-APG-Fuel-Pump/dp/B001G689OG
http://www.bellengineering.net/product_info.php?products_id=57
Parts received:
Detroit & 5.38 gears for the front
Yukon 35 spline outer axle shafts
Most of all my electrical needs (switches, relays, solenoids, etc)
Radiator fan (thanks Spence!)
On the way:
Carrier bearing
hood hinges
fuel lines & fittings
Spent 13 hours in the garage. Probably 7 hours welding with 2 welders. I'd say 98% of the welding is done now. Just need to put in some gussets for control arms and a few misc items. Whew...!
Detroit & 5.38 gears for the front
Yukon 35 spline outer axle shafts
Most of all my electrical needs (switches, relays, solenoids, etc)
Radiator fan (thanks Spence!)
On the way:
Carrier bearing
hood hinges
fuel lines & fittings
Spent 13 hours in the garage. Probably 7 hours welding with 2 welders. I'd say 98% of the welding is done now. Just need to put in some gussets for control arms and a few misc items. Whew...!
R
rockdog
Guest
Shane, are you going to run a tauras fan? If so, how are you going to control it? I can tell you how not to.
I can tell you how I ended up doing mine.
I can tell you how I ended up doing mine.
iamsparticus
Take your Rig to the Edge
- Location
- Ogden,Ut
i like the stainless idea for the fuel lines, as for the filter before the pump the extra strain of the pump will burn it up faster than any crub that makes it through the in tank filter pic up. This is a long time coming build its good to see its finally getting finished
Shane, are you going to run a tauras fan? If so, how are you going to control it? I can tell you how not to.
I can tell you how I ended up doing mine.
I ran a taurus fan in my last buggy... wired it using a solenoid to reduce the initial start-up draw and I really liked how well it worked. This time I'm wiring in 2 solendoids (should have just used a SPDT solenoid, but I already had one SPST) one for high and one for low.
It really is. I didn't realize how over-board with tubing I went on this rig until it was time to flip it and weld it. I guess that's what happens when you get shacked up in cold garage for too long.
