TJ Roll Cage and LS1 Swap

[UNSTUCK]

I haven't done a build thread in a while, maybe forever, but I thought you guys might like this one. As a bit of a background, I built this rig about two years ago, and it has performed very well. It was voted as the Jeep TJ of the year for 2012 over on Jeep Forum. The owner has been wanting a cage since day one, but just hasn't gotten around to it, due to other projects. He is getting a lot more confident in this wheeling abilities and has started realizing the need for more protection. Also, in a wheeling trip last year he broke out a section of his transmission housing, where it bolts to the cross member. He has been running it that way for several trips. I don't know how it has stayed together. He as had an LS1 sitting in his garage for a long time just waiting for a good opportunity. Well, I was a good ways into his roll cage when he called me and told me his buddies 4.0 just blew up and he needed a new one. That was all it took to pull the trigger on the LS swap. I pulled the motor out last night and am now sitting in the middle of two projects with one jeep.

You can catch up on this build with pictures I put on my blog: jamfabrocks.blogspot.com

Anyways, Braden had a very specific cage he has wanted for a long time. It's from a build he found on Pirate, and pretty much just wanted me to copy it.


I think the first day was spent just removing the stock cage and cleaning out the jeep enough to be able to work on it. IT WAS DIRTY!! This guy wheels just about every weekend and puts it away wet.







I wasn't big on a double B pillar, but it is growing on me. I really just didn't want to cut out all the small tube between the two pillars...


Then it dawned on my to cut them this way. It worked great. I can't believe I never thought of it before. I'm just a young grasshopper.




Family bar installed.


These spreaders kind of enclose the speaker pods that will be bolted up to the rear B pillar and family bar, then flow into the C pillars. The picture looks a little funny, but they turned out pretty good.


I need to snap a shot of the C pillars in place, but I cant tack them in yet, as the owner wants a diagonal bar from the top of the B pillar to the bottom of the C pillar, so i need to do them at the same time. This is where I was at when I got the call to yank the motor...

 

[UNSTUCK]

Now it was time to start pulling the drivetrain out. The Atlas 4 speed was packaged so tight that it could not be easily removed by itself. That meant it was coming out with the rest of the drivetrain. This was the longest set up I've pulled out of a jeep. I also learned that this setup will pull out much easier if you remember to disconnect the 4 speed rang selector cable.


Getting ready to start tearing into it.




At this point I needed to take a brake and help with another Jeep project. Turns out he didn't need my help, Because, "I can do it, daddy".




I couldn't get anymore height out of the lift here, because the fan was getting into the hoist. I only needed to lift the rear end by a few pounds, so I ran inside to get my wife to help. Turns out she had just gotten out of the shower and getting into bed, but she came out and helped anyways. It was awesome, me lifting the altas over the front bumper, while she pulled on the hoist...only in her underware. I tried to take a picture, but she threatened to drop the hoist.






Well this is where I'm at now. I will be ordering the install kit from Novak today. I guess the radiator is about 3 weeks out, so I will probably be bouncing between the cage and swap a lot. The goal is to have this back on the trail by the first of April. The biggest challenge of this swap will be to keep the Atlas in the same spot. The rear suspension is double triangulated, and I really don't want to mess with the crossmember.

 

[Shawn]

Should be cool, I'll be watching!

 

[Kevin B.]

Sweet. Do mine next.

 

[RockChucker]

What trans is he running? When I did mine, I put my motor less than 1/2" from the firewall and everything still moved 3" forward running the ax15 and 241 out of a rubicon. Looks good though.

 

[UNSTUCK]

The Novak kit wants to put the motor 1/2 to 1/8 inch from the firewall. That usually works out great with a 4l60e and a normal t-case. It's another story with a 4l60e and a 4 seed Altas. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. The problem now is the radiator is on back order for about 3 weeks. I really need that in place to see how far forward I can move the engine.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Not a whole lot to update, but we did grab a tranny. The atlas adapter kit showed up. So it's off to the tranny shop to get it installed and have the tranny gone through. I've been kind of jumping back and forth with the engine swap and the cage. The rear rear cage section is almost done now. I need to add the front and rear seat belt bars and then I can move forward to the front section. This is really a busy cage and requires a bit of getting used to. But it is just how the owner wants it so I guess that's all the matters.

I put these diagonal bars in tonight. I just picked up a plasma cutter last week and was able to use it to cut the notches out on these bars. I have to say I was pretty impressed with it. My Bend Tech software will print out a wrapper that you wrap around the bar and then trace the line with a marker, then it's just a matter of cutting along the line. So far it's not as clean as using my hole saw notcher, but with a little grinder work the notches cleaned up nice and the tubes worked well. Best part was no waste.

 

[blznnp]

looks good josh, that would be a lot nicer to do notches to have a printout, since I do mine with a porta band.

 

[zmotorsports]

Subscribed. Cool looking build.

Mike.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Not a lot to update on. I got the front and rear seat belt bars in place (you never want to sit back there, ever), The upper door bars are in and work with the door surrounds. I started the A pillars yesterday, but cutting through the dash and figuring out where I wanted them on the floor, then bent up the passenger side pillar.

My tranny guy has been out for a while, but he should be ready to tackle the transmission for me this week. The rest of the Novak kit "should" be here this week or next. Then I can go full steam ahead on the engine swap. I hope to have the cage all done before I start on the motor.

I took a bunch of pictures and will get them up soon.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Started in on the front end. Got the upper door bars in. I will go back and add some sort of gusset/handle where the bar meets the b pillar, as well as the a pillar. I used the stock windshield bracket. Just cut it off the stock upper door bar where it tapers down from 1 3/4 to 1 1/2, then slid the new tube over it like a sleeve. That put he bar right in the stock location and helped make the door surround fit nice.





This was the first time I've gone through the dash. I was bit hesitant, but for no real reason. With the windshield folded forward, it's pretty easy to see where the tube needs to go. I have heard that TJ's with A/C have different ducts and that makes it harder to fit. This TJ does not have A/C so I can't say. Where I put my holes, the tubes push the duct to the middle of the Jeep about 3/16 of an inch. Not a big deal.





I thought I would have to trim the weatherstripping, but it forms around the tube just fine.



On the bottom side of the dash, there is a little trimming that will need to be done. On the driver side, the OBD port is attached to a bracket that is welded to the dash support. That bracket needs to be cut off. You can see in the picture below that my tube is past the bracket, but it is in the wrong spot. It needed to be moved over about 2 inches. With the bracket cut off, the port can then be attached to the bottom of the dash a few inches to the passenger side. Then trim a very small edge of the corner of the dash. On the passenger side, just the very corner of the dash needed to be trimmed.



The final placement of the A pillar on the passenger side. Just enough room to fit between the windshield mounting bracket, and the door surround mount.



This is the seat belt bar for the front seats. Between it and the rear seat belt bar, they will double as mounting points for when the owner wants the spare tire mounted in the tub.

 

[Bart]

Love the cage work and am drooling over the LS swap. You did the same thing with the double hoop on the cage that I am planning on the new build. Really like the look.

 

[UNSTUCK]

Thanks Bart. This hasn't been the easiest cage to build, and I still have a few more extras on this one I need to work out. The owner is going for unique, and I think this one fits the bill.

 

[UNSTUCK]

It's been a while with not a lot of updating. Here's a few pictures to show where we're at now. I want to have the cage welded and painted on Saturday so I can start on the engine next week. There's still a bunch of small details to do, so I may not make it by then.

With the A pillars in I was able to start on the windshield bars. V bars will be put in soon.











This door bar is removable for doors on wheeling.


Fits real nice between the seat and the door when it's closed. I was worried about hitting it with my elbow, but that can't happen.

 

[B2-Bomber]

where did the family bar end up that it had?

I have been looking for one

 

[UNSTUCK]

I have it, and I'd be willing to be the owner would pass it on. It's in great shape.

 

[B2-Bomber]

let me know, or text me ate-oh-won-eight-7-9-for-three-five-one

 

[UFAB]

16x32 radiator works great

 

[UNSTUCK]

Got a few more things done.

Tube gusset fills in that huge void in the door area.


Overhead bars in place


Amp mounts under each seat.



Just about run out of places to put tube, so we'll be wrapping it up pretty soon. Then I will start on the engine....if parts ever show up.

 

[UNSTUCK]

let me know, or text me ate-oh-won-eight-7-9-for-three-five-one

Yep, he'll sell it. He'd like $150 for it. And $50 for the sound bar if you want that.