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Ultra 80 Buggy Build

UNSTUCK

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
iamsparticus said:
cjncustoms said:
No need to get all riled up, im not talking about tearing your motor apart just dropping your oil pan and pulling the valve covers, and timing covers.That allows you to check the bearings if you dont want to do it thats fine just a word of advice on that motor.
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To me, that is tearing WAY to much apart. Most guys have no clue what good and bad bearings look like anyways. They have no idea that there are several different metal layers that make up a bearing. Do you know which layer of specific bearing you can get into before you need to replace? Or do you just look for pitting?

If I really cared, I would do something MUCH more effective and Much easier: Send in an oil sample. It requires almost no effort and will tell you EVERYTHING about your engine.


On another note, I'm a bit surprised that we are having a conversation about which engine is better. Run what you like.
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iamsparticus

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
brandonlmb said:
I have seen it in action at the last Lucas race in July.
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then you know im 3 inches shorter haha the race went as well as it could. It was the ultra 80's maiden voyage motor ran great, tranny wasnt wired so it was in limp mode unless i put it in 1 gear select, which is how i raced the last half of the race. My rear shocks were built to do rock crawling and not jumpin or high speed stuff so they would all but lock up on the jumps. So im revalveing the rears and wiring the tranny as well as putting stiffer front springs and replacing the stock upper coil buckets they bend and caused my oil pan to hit the axle, but no worries new oil pan is in and so are the coil just have to finish the rear shocks and make the new coil buckets and im in business for next race
 
jinxspot

jinxspot

~ Bush Eater's Offroad ~
Location
Salt Lake Utah
iamsparticus said:
bingo, i knew it was going to happen though i just didnt have time to re valve the shocks
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Although I've never "officially" raced I have gone fast in a couple different setups and most of my friends sitting with me actually couldn't believe you were out there racing with that setup... after seeing that rig bounce like a pogo stick in the rear and throw it basically out of control on the track a few times, I think you might be better off going to a spring type susp vs an air shock for crawling. Or maybe at least do a few practice runs to tune what ya got before catastrophically breaking something in a race (including your spine).
 
iamsparticus

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
jinxspot said:
Although I've never "officially" raced I have gone fast in a couple different setups and most of my friends sitting with me actually couldn't believe you were out there racing with that setup... after seeing that rig bounce like a pogo stick in the rear and throw it basically out of control on the track a few times, I think you might be better off going to a spring type susp vs an air shock for crawling. Or maybe at least do a few practice runs to tune what ya got before catastrophically breaking something in a race (including your spine).
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yeah i was a bit crazy to run it like that but i really didnt want to miss another race id already missed two! I already wanted to go to coil over befoer the race but my sponsor, ADS Shocks wants me to try and tune these first, they are piggy back air shocks and are a fairly new design, mine are actually the first pair ever made. So im going to tune these and try them out locally before the next race, if they are undoable they are sending out coilovers

When i had the airshocks made originally for my runner i had them valved super stiff with the bleeder holes plugged and the max amount of oil in them to give me the best control and side hilling. So that is the main reason they are doing what they do, hopfully they work if not i will be running 2.5 coilovers with remote res
 
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iamsparticus

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
So i got my new suspension parts in and got my pass side hydro bump rebuilt and ready to go. I re-valved my airshocks. For those who know shocks they were .015 on rebound and .012 on compression so i changed it to .010 on rebound and .008 on compression. got it all back together and did a quick test run it does seem alot better but i need to really rally it and jump it to see if it was enough, but i have to redo my upper coil mounts and remount the bumps up front first. Im moving the bumps from inside the coils to on the frame hitting a pad on the radius arm should be much better
 
Cascadia

Cascadia

Undecided
Location
Orem, Utah
Seems to me like that would put a lot of stress on a radius arm. Something always hitting it trying to bend it. At least that's what I'm picturing in my head. Isn't that why bump stops are normally in the coil or right above the leaf?
 
iamsparticus

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
zukijames said:
There are plenty of people running bumps on there links with out issues my only question is why would moving them be much better?
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the problem with the bumps in the coils is the pad the bump has to hit is very small and the axle moves as it articulates its hard to keep the endes from sliding off and wearing out, with it on the links it will have a much more predictable travel that dosent change much and will make my bump endes last much longer
 
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