Welded vs bolted

What is better, for mounting rock sliders?


  • Total voters
    37
  • Poll closed .

_Auzzy_

Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
Location
Richfield Utah
BOTH

The way I did mine I drilled 2 holes through the plate and the frame on each side of the bar going from the rail to the frame on mine, put a backing plate on the other side then sucked them in as hard as the impact would go then tack welded each corner of the mounting plate. That way if they get bent I can un-bolt them after grinding the tacks and re-pair them away from the body. :greg:
 

grandmaster

Let the build Re-begin
Location
St. George, Utah
Welding will distribute the load across a greater surface area so there isn't so much stress where just th bolt is.....Bolting it is nice becauseyou can take it off....but welding is gonna be stronger and better IMO
 

Crinco

Well-Known Member
Location
Heber
Weld on extra support brackets to the frame that you can bolt the sliders to, so they can be removed and repaired when needed.
 

STAG

Well-Known Member
-#1- don't weld to a unibody.
-#2- I always sleeve the frame with some DOM when bolting something on.
-#3- if having a real frame (not a unibody) use BOTH! Use enough bolts (quantity and size) so that if a weld fails, the bolts will hold it!
 

STAG

Well-Known Member
When factorys weld up the unibody they are using heat controlled computers in welding robots, granted yes you could weld to it if you can weld like the robots and know what you're doing... however it still significantly weakens the metal on the edge of the weld, especially for suspension peices (trac-bar, control arm link ends etc).. the reason why all the top brand lift kits for unibodies are bolt on... I dunno I guess its just personal preference.. I won't ever weld to a unibody as I've seen what it does on my friends Jeep..

Granted yes on these pictures (VVVV) whoever the past owner was who welded this sucks @$$ and should quit welding... but the whole rear of this unibody is destroyed... It looks like the welder welded a bead, and then it broke next to the weld, and then they rewelded it, and it broke... instead of ever fixing it the right way in the first place with bolts..

1996 Grand Cherokee- Rear trac-bar mount
hpim0432l.jpg

hpim0434.jpg
 

1995zj

I'm addicted
Location
Herriman, UT
Looks like somebody just took a cutting torch to that unibody....I wouldn't consider those welds. I've welded to my unibody and feel I have moderate welding experience with no issues thus far....I guess you could say I weld like a robot then :D
 

Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
Looks like somebody just took a cutting torch to that unibody....I wouldn't consider those welds. I've welded to my unibody and feel I have moderate welding experience with no issues thus far....I guess you could say I weld like a robot then :D

What he said... I'm sensing some unibody hate in here today....
 

grandmaster

Let the build Re-begin
Location
St. George, Utah
the reason why all the top brand lift kits for unibodies are bolt on


One of the top brands for the grand is Claytons..which = weld on. I will agree with you though, it is preference, and people who don't have welding experience should not weld to a unibody. I don't know what the hell happened to that other GC haha but it was pretty much destroyed.
 

STAG

Well-Known Member
Yeah I told him that I would switch it over to the other side (the frame end mount to drivers side instead of passenger) and make it 100% bolt-on and do it nice and the right way for just the cost of materials (about $80) and he was like well, my buddy will reweld it for free.... and I said okay when it breaks again I'll fix it...:ugh::-\:sick: (if the jeep isn't rolled over by then)
 
Top