Jinx
when in doubt, upgrade!
- Location
- So Jordan, Utah
Good to see you up and doing what you want.
General Tech What did you work on Today?
- Thread starter Gravy
- Start date
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Filter pods arrived. The 1090 is back in business just in time for early winter
Stock dust induction.
Power cell filter pods
Stock dust induction.
Power cell filter pods
Finished up my welding cart. Made a little power box so I only need to plug one thing in, then either/both welders are ready as well as a 110v plug for grinders or whatever. No additional extension cord needed hopefully.
I used the runniest paint I've ever used, Krylon Fusion. I won't buy that again.
I used the runniest paint I've ever used, Krylon Fusion. I won't buy that again.
Attachments
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
The panel for grinders and such is a brilliant idea!
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Very good work sir. I need you to build me a multi-receptacle deal like that. I'm ascared of the lectrics.Finished up my welding cart. Made a little power box so I only need to plug one thing in, then either/both welders are ready as well as a 110v plug for grinders or whatever. No additional extension cord needed hopefully.
I used the runniest paint I've ever used, Krylon Fusion. I won't buy that again.View attachment 130769View attachment 130771View attachment 130772
- Location
- Draper, UT
Did you run a 4-wire cord or did you cheat on the 110 V like I did and use the ground as the return?
Totally cheated. I figure, the ground and neutral are connected at the panel, so why can't I use either one for either function?
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
So, the 240 just uses both legs coming into the box and a neutral common to both. It phases between the two poles. The fourth ground is for safety like you see for ovens and dryers. They actually split the circuit in those to run the times or other small electronics just like Carl did with that box.
You can take one of those poles and the neutral to make another 120v there just like Carl did. Should be fine as long as you're not running a bunch of things at once.
Source: I'm a backyard electrical idiot. So don't take my word for it.
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- Location
- Richfield, UT.
This is what i did inside my welder when i installed the 115 outlets. Did you put a fuse or breaker in line or do you have 30-50 amps to the 115v outlet? Mine has a full 50amps lol.
Full power. Only one leg, so 25a worth? Barely more than a standard 20a wall outlet. Right? Yeah.
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Pretty sure each leg gets full breaker amps.
DesertRam
Active Member
- Location
- Southern New Mexico
I applied finish to what will soon become a storage and transport box for my Weber Q grill.
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
I got that cabinet situated and started filling it with crap. Its 56" wide and 28" deep. Then we did smore painting.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
During our drive home from South Dakota on Saturday we experienced a hellacious wind storm. Just outside of Muddy Gap, WY I caught a visual in my mirror of my fuel compartment door flying open. Luckily it didn’t flip it up far enough to contact any paint but it did exert enough force to hyperextend the hinge causing the rivets to release slightly and the hinge have a gap between the backside and the steel compartment framework.
Tonight I drilled out the old rivets and replaced them with new ones to tighten the hinge back up against the structure.
Drilling and replacing one at a time.
All six rivets replaced and ready to touch up the paint.
Completed. Rivets wiped down with some wax & grease remover then I applied some pewter and maroon on the respective rivets.
Glad that wasn’t any worse. Upon inspection of why the compartment door came open the best I could deduce was that one of the strikers wasn’t extending all of the way to grab the receiver. I cleaned and lubed the latch mechanism and quickly found that the striker was extending further so I think that was the cause. I lube my latches annually but this particular mechanism seldom gets exercised because I use the small fuel fill door so I will have to make it a point to open and close the large compartment door more frequently to keep it exercised and moving freely.
Mike
Tonight I drilled out the old rivets and replaced them with new ones to tighten the hinge back up against the structure.
Drilling and replacing one at a time.
All six rivets replaced and ready to touch up the paint.
Completed. Rivets wiped down with some wax & grease remover then I applied some pewter and maroon on the respective rivets.
Glad that wasn’t any worse. Upon inspection of why the compartment door came open the best I could deduce was that one of the strikers wasn’t extending all of the way to grab the receiver. I cleaned and lubed the latch mechanism and quickly found that the striker was extending further so I think that was the cause. I lube my latches annually but this particular mechanism seldom gets exercised because I use the small fuel fill door so I will have to make it a point to open and close the large compartment door more frequently to keep it exercised and moving freely.
Mike
- Location
- West Haven, UT
During our trip to Ouray, CO last month when we stopped for the night in Green River, UT my wife and I both caught a whiff of coolant when we got out of the coach. Seeing as how the engine is in the rear of our coach I thought maybe a hose connection where the bulkhead fittings come out behind the generator compartment. Upon arriving home from the trip I crawled under it and could not see anything leaking plus my coolant level was fine.
Tonight I thought I’d take a few minutes and disconnect a hose from the heater core to check and see if that could possibly be the source.
I added a short length of hose in which to connect my coolant pressure tester to the heater core.
Heater core seems fine. It held 15 psi for over ten minutes.
At this point I’m not certain where my smell is coming from but I’m not losing coolant so I’ll just have to keep an eye on things. After reconnecting the heater core hoses I did double check all four of the hose clamps on the heater hoses coming off the front rigid pipes at the front bulkhead. I found all to be snug and no crusties from coolant appeared so at this point I'll just keep monitoring (and sniffing).
Thanks for looking.
Mike
Tonight I thought I’d take a few minutes and disconnect a hose from the heater core to check and see if that could possibly be the source.
I added a short length of hose in which to connect my coolant pressure tester to the heater core.
Heater core seems fine. It held 15 psi for over ten minutes.
At this point I’m not certain where my smell is coming from but I’m not losing coolant so I’ll just have to keep an eye on things. After reconnecting the heater core hoses I did double check all four of the hose clamps on the heater hoses coming off the front rigid pipes at the front bulkhead. I found all to be snug and no crusties from coolant appeared so at this point I'll just keep monitoring (and sniffing).
Thanks for looking.
Mike
- Location
- West Haven, UT
That was my initial thought when we caught the first smell earlier in the year but then a couple trips later we smelled it again. I'm sure I'll locate it eventually.
Mike
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
I put my Wife's birthday present together for her today.
- DAA
- DAA
xjtony
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Grantsville, Ut
Hit the junkyard Friday for some parts to finish up my sons Power Wagon and found this guy. Cosmetically good, but with the mounts broken off.
Decided it would look good living on the garage wall.
Decided it would look good living on the garage wall.