What should I get

[Houndoc]

Glad you are willing to listen to the advice against a large lift. Not only does it hurt for rock crawling, but, in my opinion, tall trucks and high school students don't mix.

I think we all remember how we drove as teens (on and off road). Compound that with a too-high center of gravity and it is a disaster in the making.

I had a friend in high school with such a set-up. He was wheeling it above Bountiful and rolled while getting unstuck. As I recall, they estimated he rolled about 1,000 feet, finally stopping in a grove of trees. Fortunately he survived (he was smart enough to be buckled or he would not have). Another friend who had been with him had gotten out to spot him. Based on the damage to the truck, they figured had he still been in the passangers seat, there is basically no way he would have lived.

Another advantage to building a rig slowly instead of buying a built truck is you can learn how to wheel. Someone mentioned to me once that no one's first rig should have a locker, as it only encourages you to get into a situation beyond your driving skills. I think there is wisdom in that.

And I will strongly second the tread lightly comments. Once again, going back to our own teen years, most of us really did/do stupid things. Learn to wheel properly.

 

[Cooper]

I also found out that there were 3 kids in my ward who died up by the B in bountiful. Maybe ill tag along like was mentioned and you guys could teach me some stuff?

 

[mesha]

I agree with tagging along. Go over to some of the guys houses and crawl around under the rigs and check stuff out. You can drive mine whenever it is working.

 

[leorn]

if I could do it over...

Everybody is so eager to help you not make the same mistakes we did, or have watched other make. I guess I am no different.

I have found that I save a lot of money by thinking through exactly what I want for several months or even years before I actually purchase it. Go on rides with others with a similar vehicle, and learn some basics about rockcrawling like:

Axles - lockers, gear ratio, aftermarket axle shafts, what size of tires can they handle, prices to upgrade etc.
vehicles - what is the frame and what difference does it make, c-channel, unibody, fully boxed etc.
engines - do you dare deal with a swap? do you want mpg or power
transmissions - manual or automatic, gearing, strength, longevity
transfer cases - dual cases, single, what gear ratio do you want.
protection - what does a strong recovery point look like, what materials should they be made of.
roll cages - what does a strong and weak cage look like, what materials are best
winches - a good one to experience, then study differences!
suspension - leaf springs vs link suspensions, which are you comfortable with. How much lift do you want.
When is a junkyard part better than an aftermarket part? How much of this stuff could I 'trail repair' when it breaks at the worst possible moment? What vehicles are actually legal? (I'm not sure whether you could register some of those you posted depending on what the frame height is.)

I'm not saying you have to know everything about all of those, but it's something I wish I someone had told me to think about. I could have saved quite a few pennies and a lot of time if I had done that in the first place. I personally am still learning about a lot of these things after I bought my first 4x4 in 2001. That's why I read on this site and others.

It's an expensive hobby but its a blast. Don't forget to leave money for gas

 

[The Stranger]

I absolutely hate Toyotas(mostly cause I own Jeeps). But in stock form, (or heavily modified form, or any form in between) Toyota is a great wheeler, pretty strong platform, super cheap parts, cheap to lift and easy to work on. Even a $300 Jeep Cherokee, will cost a pretty penny to put on a decent lift, and then the axles are total garbage. I say Toyota, Nissan, Sami, or any midsize which you can install some Toyota axles.

 

[The Stranger]

Yeah, stay away from huge lifts. If you must have something really tall, make sure it is really wide as well.

I would stay away from the Toyota in that ad. They took out a fuel injected motor and threw in a carbureted motor that has the reputation of being one of the least desirable V8's chevy has ever produced.

 

[Cooper]

Well the reason for the toyota is cause it's a small toyota truck. I planned on doing a swap with a fuel injected v8 in the long haul and also this truck would be just for the minor off roading for camping and stuff like that

 

[rock4fun]

If I were you I would go with a toyota mini truck. Stay away from the v8 toyota it will just give you trouble trust me I've had one. Go with one with the 22re motor these little trucks do really good easy to work on lots of parts around and easy to build. I have a friend hew has one he bought last summer put low range gear set in it locked it front and rear and put a twin stick in it and is still in to it less then $4000 thats with the purcase price.

 

[SLC97SR5]

Get a 4.0L Cherokee and go from there. The 4.0 is a great engine and there are some killer deals on KSL.

 

[BlackDog]

I may get shot here... but an EFI manual tranny Bronco, 87-96 would be a great start, stock 33's will go with no complications.. little bit of sheetmetal should you wreck/roll it, topless is bitching... Solid drivetrain, decent mpg (not so much of the I-6.. some do, some don't 302/5.0 is a solid choice) easy to straight axle down the road, the TTb is a decent front suspension......

Friend of mine on another board, lives in Roy, just bought an Eddie Bauer 92 or so for $400.. little rusty, but runs okay.

I have loved every Bronco I have owned, and they are fun little rigs. My 5.0 4 speed, no O/D, 3 + granny, did 16.9 at 55-63 mph, and only dropped to 16.1 63-75 mph...

33's didn't affect it much, drove it for pizza delivery and still got 14 ish out of it.

Not a nig fan of body lifts, but there is one in my driveway with 35's and a 3" body lift, and it doesn't appear to have clearance, rubbing issues. You won't find too many people on this board who will recommend a body lift.. just sayin' 35's are possible with 3".

 

[BlackDog]

http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/cto/994753169.html
http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/ctd/999243467.html
http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/ctd/995458528.html
http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/ctd/994737503.html

classic right here.....
http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/cto/1004049591.html

for 3k.... would waaaaaaaaaaay do that over a v8 toy.. or any of the other Broncs I listed.
http://provo.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=Bronco

the 79 is intriguing....

 

[SLC97SR5]

I would also be all over those Ford's before I even wasted my time driving to look at that Toyota.

 

[OREGON85]

I bought an '85 Toyota when I was 16. EFI, solid axle, good MPG and no regrets. It's still my daily driver and it is worth more now than I paid for it then. I would disagree with those who say not to buy a built truck. Mine had a locker and lower diff. gears when I bought it. I wheeled with experienced guys and did do anything dangerous. Check these out...

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=5331958&lpid=1&cat=402
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=5228180&cat=402&lpid=2

I'd loose that orange bumper (or paint it black). Don't get impatient and buy something that will be a maintenance headache. I would also recommend saving your money, paying cash, and having enough left over to fix it when it breaks.

 

[BlackDog]

Both of those are nice.. if I was in the 3 grand range, would be a toss up between the 1969 Bronco I linked and the flatbed 85.

 

[Cooper]

I went to look at the toyota I wanted. it comes with a bunch of stuff he didnt list. but its a really fun truck i got to drive it a little bit, the guy who is selling it is in the army and forever in debt cause of school and I would like nothing more than to help a soldier and buy just a fun around truck. im thinking really good about this cause I have always been a fan of toyota trucks, he has done tons of work to it that he didnt list,

 

[OREGON85]

You would be happier in the end with a stock motor.

 

[Cooper]

alright I took your guys advice and decided to not go with that toyota. so I went looking for a smaller one with the right specs and I think I found it.

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=733005&nid=443&tab=list/view&ad=1039933

and also what is the best cylinder engine for climbing? the reason i ask is because Im coming from a racing scene where a v8 with mods is the best so that why that toyota caught my attention.

 

[I Lean]

There's no "best", just the best in each application. For the Toyota you're looking at, the 22RE (4cyl) is usually the most reliable, which is more important than power when you're out in the middle of nowhere. More power is nicer, but not when it carries the price of less reliability.

The factory Toyota V6's are good to stay away from, until 1996+. (the 3.4L)

 

[The Stranger]

alright I took your guys advice and decided to not go with that toyota. so I went looking for a smaller one with the right specs and I think I found it.

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?sid=733005&nid=443&tab=list/view&ad=1039933

and also what is the best cylinder engine for climbing? the reason i ask is because Im coming from a racing scene where a v8 with mods is the best so that why that toyota caught my attention.

The 22RE is a solid motor, you make up for the lack of power with gearing.

That link brought up a page with no information or pictures.

 

[Cooper]

Yeah I called him about it and I guess it's sold I'll put a diff link up when I get home