Isuzu Where to go from here? (tie rod)

[Spork]

I think I'm the only person using the Isuzu prefix so here goes

Before the RME BBQ I managed to break my tie rod adjuster rod, Mesha and Skippy rescued me post BBQ so I'm home and happy but I'm left with where do I go from here? :-\ Short term is what do I replace this with? (we can discuss long term later). What do you do when you're out wheeling and break a critical part that no one carries? Or is that the reason everyone drives a Jeep or a Toyota? When I was in the parts store another guy that had a Land Rover was in looking for parts also so I don't believe it's an exclusive club.

I like the little Isuzu but this weekend has got me wondering about it's future with me.

Anyway sorry this is a little scrambled, Got a picture to make up for it.

 

[Sporksgirl]

Thank you Mesha and Skippy for helping to rescue us! You guys are awesome!

 

[mesha]

It was fun to help you guys out! I would recommend welding a wrench on the other side before you break;-).

 

[zukijames]

What are the goals /needs from the rig .. I say put some 1 ton axles and full hydro steering.. But if it needs to be driven much that might not be a good idea

 

[zukijames]

Could you make a piece and use hiem joints on the ends ? I can't really tell in the pic

 

[Spork]

What are the goals /needs from the rig .. I say put some 1 ton axles and full hydro steering.. But if it needs to be driven much that might not be a good idea

I think 1-tons and hydro is overkill for what I want to do, I have no intention of doing Pritchet or any of the hard trails, I broke this on Kane Creek on the climb out but similar trails would be what my target would be.

 

[Spork]

Could you make a piece and use hiem joints on the ends ? I can't really tell in the pic

I believe what is there currently is basically 2 Tie rods with a piece of rod between them. The only after market I've found so far is from Indy 4x https://www.independent4x.com/merchantmanager/product_info.php?cPath=63_88&products_id=56 on the stock pieces the tie rod pieces are female and on the aftermarket one they are male.

The vehicle needs to remain street legal if that makes a difference.

 

[zukijames]

Yup if that's all it is nothing fancy I bet you could just make a new one with hiem joints and a heavier duty tube

 

[gorillaxj]

If your leaving the IFS I would try to get those beefier replacements (Might as well do both sides) and keep the pass side as a trail spare, If they break worry about it then. at least thats what I would do...

 

[Caleb]

Yup if that's all it is nothing fancy I bet you could just make a new one with hiem joints and a heavier duty tube

Why heims? Personally, I'd say build a new tie rod and use some beefier tre's. I'm sure carl could thread the tie rod for you.

 

[gorillaxj]

Why heims? Personally, I'd say build a new tie rod and use some beefier tre's. I'm sure carl could thread the tie rod for you.

Good point, and the tube could be thick enough to not have to worry about it. If you make your own you could ream the drag link and knuckles to fit a common and popular TRE that has great support, like the chevy TRE ect...

 

[zukijames]

I just figured hiems would be easier than finding Beefier tie
Rod ends and reaming out . And tapping a tube .

Vs.
Drill 2 holes weld in some weld in bungs and be done.

 

[Spork]

So I imagine tie rods are different diameters, are they also different tapers? (like 5 degrees vs 7?)

 

[kobyhud]

I still have a rodeo. While I was still IFS I just carried junk yard tie rod replacements with me. $10-20 bucks for spares. Alignment becomes a problem though and you will quickly burn through tires on your way to and from Moab. Having been through this a couple of times on my rodeo before the solid axle swap (which I don't know that I would do again) I would just pony up for the indy4x product. I would not just drill holes and throw in Heims on a daily driven rig. Quality TREs are going to cost some coin, 40-80 bucks a pop, figure that you need 4 of them plus some threaded DOM and suddenly $260 bucks isn't out of the price range anymore. Once you get those TREs upgraded the Isuzu (rodeo or trooper) is a pretty stout vehicle, departure angles are pretty good, cargo space is pretty good, with boulder bars and 33s all you need to do is add a rear locker to go most anywhere. The weak parts are the tie rods and the 4l30e automatic transmission. Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

[kobyhud]

I have a lot more Isuzu wisdom to impart if you have more questions.

 

[zukijames]

can i ask why you would not use a heim?

 

[driver920]

well my opion is quit thinking rodeo and start thinking 44 0r 60 now what i mean by this is the short side dana 44 or 60 tre is short and though i would have to look at it and run a tape i will almost bet the short tre on the knuckle a sleeve and the short side of the drag link out of say a 70 to 85 chev would be close to the right length and once you have the right combo those parts are available in any parts store but once you had them in on that vehicle i would bet you would never break then as long as you kept them greased and such and they would never interfer with inspection most inspecters would never notice you did it

 

[bryson]

can i ask why you would not use a heim?

Heims are noisy and clunky on a DD. Tie rod ends are smooth and quiet. If anything, thread some tube (or weld in bungs if you like that kind of thing...) and use TREs instead of heims for a DIY solution.

But, I agree that the Indy replacements sound like a good idea. Already engineered and tested, and ready to bolt on. Plus, by the time you make your own, you are not far from the cost of the Indy bolt-ons anyways.

 

[Spork]

I have a lot more Isuzu wisdom to impart if you have more questions.

Thanks for the input, I've been debating back and forth on the indy kit, I've got an ARB front bumper some rails and I'm still working on the rear, I got 32" tires so I'm a little lower than I would like but it drags itself over about anything.

 

[jackjoh]

I don't know if this will help but this was my solution with my Scout's. I carried a four foot section of angle iron, a hack saw, welding rod, battery cables and always went with a friend that had battery cables (so I had 24V for welding). When anything broke I would cut off the appropriate length of angle iron and weld it back together. Would check toe-in or whatever in the field and do a re-alignment when
back home. Most of the time re-alignment was not required and I would leave the fix and just drive it.