WILL A RUBI JK AXLE BOLT IN MY TJ
- Thread starter RESCUETJ
- Start date
Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
I believe the mounting points are slightly wider.Why run this axle? Unless you can get it for dirt cheap its not really worth it.Sure the ring gear and pinion are 44 but nothing else is.Have you seen the axles that have been splitting their tubes?They have super thin tubes plus you are still basically running the crappy Dana 30 unit bearing front end that almost everybody is trying to get away from.Go get a real 44 from a u-pull it or even better get one of the few that are for sell here on this site.
Get some brackets for it ,have them burnt on, and bolt it in.You could even have it cut down(shortened) relatively cheap.Hell with the right amount of backspacing even a full size axle becomes skinny.
Get some brackets for it ,have them burnt on, and bolt it in.You could even have it cut down(shortened) relatively cheap.Hell with the right amount of backspacing even a full size axle becomes skinny.
Lifelong Jeeper
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Murray
Badger is right. The frame is wider on a JK so the mounting points are different. You will have to strip it down to bare tubes and custom weld the bracketry. If you've got to do that you might as well buy a real D44 and start from scratch. There are many shops in town that can build the axel up right for you including gear/locker install.
Best of luck and let us know what you come up with.
Best of luck and let us know what you come up with.
jdub
Scrambler
- Location
- Provo, Utah.
All important points. JP mag seems to think that a 44 rubi swap is worthwhile. You will have to relocate your spring buckets though.
On that note Badger, What kind of D44 is preferred? Scout, Waggy, Ford? No one makes one in a TJ bolt pattern?
On that note Badger, What kind of D44 is preferred? Scout, Waggy, Ford? No one makes one in a TJ bolt pattern?
Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
nope if you want to step up to a real 44 then you are either looking at getting wheel adapters,5 on 5.5 ,or the old 8 on 6.5 of course there is also the option to go 6 lug.
As for what 44 is preferred,that all depends on what you truly want to do.Any waggy or Scout axle is going to be low pinion which is never a desired flavor .Which leave you with the Ford HP 44 .I would only look for a 1/2 ton axle from 73 to 77 after that and they had the cast radius arm mounts.What I would really look for is a 78/79 3/4 ton axle from a F250/F350.
As for what 44 is preferred,that all depends on what you truly want to do.Any waggy or Scout axle is going to be low pinion which is never a desired flavor .Which leave you with the Ford HP 44 .I would only look for a 1/2 ton axle from 73 to 77 after that and they had the cast radius arm mounts.What I would really look for is a 78/79 3/4 ton axle from a F250/F350.
TJ AXLES
THANKS FOR THE INFO, WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST DOING? IVE GOT A D30 THAT KEEPS GIVING ME TROUBLE, AND WOULD LIKE SOMTHING STRONGER UP FRONT. MY OLD MAN JUST BOUGHT A BOLT IN 44 FROM A MAGAZINE ITS CALLED A (G2)?. ITS PRETTY NICE. IVE GOT A 98 TJ 5" RUBICON LONGARM REAR 44 ARBS FRONT AND REAR ON 36 IROKS. IM NOT ONE TO BEAT MY JEEP BUT I DO USE IT FOR WHAT IT WAS BUILT FOR, SO I DONT NEED OVERKILL. WHERE COULD I FIND A FRONT 44 THAT I COULD USE?
THANKS FOR THE INFO, WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST DOING? IVE GOT A D30 THAT KEEPS GIVING ME TROUBLE, AND WOULD LIKE SOMTHING STRONGER UP FRONT. MY OLD MAN JUST BOUGHT A BOLT IN 44 FROM A MAGAZINE ITS CALLED A (G2)?. ITS PRETTY NICE. IVE GOT A 98 TJ 5" RUBICON LONGARM REAR 44 ARBS FRONT AND REAR ON 36 IROKS. IM NOT ONE TO BEAT MY JEEP BUT I DO USE IT FOR WHAT IT WAS BUILT FOR, SO I DONT NEED OVERKILL. WHERE COULD I FIND A FRONT 44 THAT I COULD USE?
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
What parts are "giving you trouble"?
are you sure? I read somewhere that the 07+ (JK) HP44's are actually stronger than the Ford 44's...the JK axles dont use the crappy 35 tubes. I could be wrong, it just seems like I read that somewhere...i'll see if I can't find it
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/154_0708_weakest_to_strongest_axles/index.html
found it
first page is front axles, second is rear...
Ford HP44 front is #9 and JK HP44 is #8
and regular LP 44 rear is #14 and JK is #12
its not much difference, but its still a difference. I'm not saying that they're 100% right, I just thought I'd throw it out there.
found it
first page is front axles, second is rear...
Ford HP44 front is #9 and JK HP44 is #8
and regular LP 44 rear is #14 and JK is #12
its not much difference, but its still a difference. I'm not saying that they're 100% right, I just thought I'd throw it out there.
Last edited:
Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
You might want to reevaluate that one.Just because some stupid ass magazine says its stronger don't believe it.Search the net a bit harder you will find that the JK axle is junk.
These are just two of the many that are out there breaking axles doing moderate wheeling.
Oh and one other thing about having to change the lug pattern if moving to a an older 44.You would have to change rims with the JK 44 as well the bolt pattern is 5 on 5 .
These are just two of the many that are out there breaking axles doing moderate wheeling.
Oh and one other thing about having to change the lug pattern if moving to a an older 44.You would have to change rims with the JK 44 as well the bolt pattern is 5 on 5 .
You might want to reevaluate that one.Just because some stupid ass magazine says its stronger don't believe it.Search the net a bit harder you will find that the JK axle is junk.
These are just two of the many that are out there breaking axles doing moderate wheeling.
Oh and one other thing about having to change the lug pattern if moving to a an older 44.You would have to change rims with the JK 44 as well the bolt pattern is 5 on 5 .
LMAO im surprised you didnt quote the pictures of the tubes falling out of the housings.
Medsker
2024 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon 392
- Location
- Herriman, UT
Junk...I have a hard time believing that because a few tubes have broken that they are all junk. I've wheeled mine pretty hard and haven't broken it yet and I'm running 37's. They figure there was a bad batch that had some bad metal that caused the few to break. If you look at how many are out there wheeling that haven't had any problem it is a very low percentage that have broken.
You definitely have the right to your opinion though.
My opinion is they aren't junk at all and just got a few bad ones in a new production vehicle and have fixed all of that now. And they are certainly not in the same ballpark as the old tj Dana 44's.
Medsker
You definitely have the right to your opinion though.
My opinion is they aren't junk at all and just got a few bad ones in a new production vehicle and have fixed all of that now. And they are certainly not in the same ballpark as the old tj Dana 44's.
Medsker
Zombie
Random Dead Guy
- Location
- Sandy Utah
I'll actually answer your question.
Front axle almost bolts in... rear axle NO.
I put them in my ZJ, and up front I moved the coil pads inward a bit. A couple of guys have moved the upper coil perch on the frame side. I used the stock JK brackets. I welt long arm, but guys have done it with short arms. The brackets on the front line up almost perfectly. The unit bearings on the JK axles are captive, meaning you can drive without a shaft in place if you need to.
The 08 build year axles use a thicker tube, and have several other improvements. From what I've found the failure rate on the 07s was less than 1%, but from my research the 80s aren't breaking... a couple of guys have bent inner C's (I'm not sure what build year those were) but there are simple solutions for that...
As mentioned, you will need to change wheels. Very few 15" wheels clear the JK brakes. The JK axles are wider, and have much larger brakes than the X/T/Zj axles.
I put a ton of research into it, and decided to use the JK axles. I couldn't rebuild and regear an axle for what I paid for mine, selectably locked. I'm running 33"s, MAYBE 35"s in the future... beyond that I'd look at a 60. As long as you can ensure you get an 08 build axle, I don't see any reason to go junkyard, unless you need gears other than 4.10...
Edit:
Oh yeah... heres some pics of mine... http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=55698
Front axle almost bolts in... rear axle NO.
I put them in my ZJ, and up front I moved the coil pads inward a bit. A couple of guys have moved the upper coil perch on the frame side. I used the stock JK brackets. I welt long arm, but guys have done it with short arms. The brackets on the front line up almost perfectly. The unit bearings on the JK axles are captive, meaning you can drive without a shaft in place if you need to.
The 08 build year axles use a thicker tube, and have several other improvements. From what I've found the failure rate on the 07s was less than 1%, but from my research the 80s aren't breaking... a couple of guys have bent inner C's (I'm not sure what build year those were) but there are simple solutions for that...
As mentioned, you will need to change wheels. Very few 15" wheels clear the JK brakes. The JK axles are wider, and have much larger brakes than the X/T/Zj axles.
I put a ton of research into it, and decided to use the JK axles. I couldn't rebuild and regear an axle for what I paid for mine, selectably locked. I'm running 33"s, MAYBE 35"s in the future... beyond that I'd look at a 60. As long as you can ensure you get an 08 build axle, I don't see any reason to go junkyard, unless you need gears other than 4.10...
Edit:
Oh yeah... heres some pics of mine... http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=55698
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
Ditto... I say throw some CRoMo's (Alloy USA) and CTM's at it and run it. Dana 30's can handle 36" tires.... Ball joints and unit bearings will wear faster, but if you keep up on their service you won't have any issues on the trail.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/154_0708_weakest_to_strongest_axles/index.html
found it
first page is front axles, second is rear...
Ford HP44 front is #9 and JK HP44 is #8
and regular LP 44 rear is #14 and JK is #12
its not much difference, but its still a difference. I'm not saying that they're 100% right, I just thought I'd throw it out there.
I don't think so... There is only opinion on that page and not fact. JK HPD44 still only has 2.5" OD tubes, the rear is 3-1/8". From what Zombie said, they are 3/8" thick now. A larger OD tube is stronger than a smaller OD, even if the smaller OD tube is marginally thicker.
Plus, that Ford HPD44 has WAAAAAYYYYY more aftermarket support and the parts are cheaper.
XJEEPER
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland Springs
I smell irony....Badger and Badcop on the same post, making blanket statements relative to breaking stuff.
I've seen folks break D44 and D60 components too..... more relevent questions would be, what size tires do you run? What motor/tranny? Heavy right foot or more finesse driving style? Blonde or brunette? Taste great or less filling?
Seems like adding a truss and some gussets would be a simple fix over a complete axle swap out, especially if you already had money invested in gears, lockers, alloy shafts, etc.
I've seen folks break D44 and D60 components too..... more relevent questions would be, what size tires do you run? What motor/tranny? Heavy right foot or more finesse driving style? Blonde or brunette? Taste great or less filling?
Seems like adding a truss and some gussets would be a simple fix over a complete axle swap out, especially if you already had money invested in gears, lockers, alloy shafts, etc.
x2. Although 36's are pushing the limits of what I would do on a D30. That being said, I run 35's on my D30 cause I am not going to spend money on a slightly stronger D44, just so I can maybe run 37's. The dream is one day for a D60. I personally see no big gain in a D44 up front over a D30.
RESCUETJ said:
And turn off your CAPS LOCK.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
I agree to a point... It just depends on what you are breaking. If you're breaking axles, the swap is really of no value. If you are busting gears, then the swap will be benificial. If you aren't breaking anything, then why upgrade? Cool factor? I can understand if you want to go bigger tires so you want bigger axles. But if you are goign to keep the same tires and wheelin' style, then adjust accordingly.
Also too, you already have the D30....
Like was pointed out, everything can break....
Like I said, "I'm not saying that they're 100% right, I'm just throwing it out there." Honestly, I haven't searched the internet for them at all, being as I have a "real" 44 and a 9" that I'm building. I think that "there are just too many of these that are breaking axles doing moderate wheeling" is a Bit of an over exaggeration, but I agree that I wouldn't want that happening on any kind of semi-regular basis.
VERY true