Thanks Corban, but I'll try to find a Willys if I can. Anything I find will need mods, but the CJ3a will have much less work to do to fit the way I need it.
Jeep Willys ground-up build
- Thread starter I Lean
- Start date
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- Tags
- build thread jeep tig-tarded willys
Thanks Corban, but I'll try to find a Willys if I can. Anything I find will need mods, but the CJ3a will have much less work to do to fit the way I need it.
Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
Sounds good. If it is flat, I know Jones will custom cut windshield glass for a pretty reasonable price.
BCGPER
Starting Another Thread
- Location
- Sunny Arizona
That mint '48 is still sitting there under the carport. What are your thoughts on working after dark, and razor wire?? :-\
I should have just dragged the thing off when I had the chance.
I should have just dragged the thing off when I had the chance.
A few pics finally. Here's the D300 case with the clocking ring on it:
These show the modification to the 1980 version D300 to bolt on a "normal" HD output housing designed for a 1981+ 'case:
The 4" stretch, and cutting a 37" diameter wheelwell. I cut nothing from the front of the wheelwell, and about 1.5" or 2" off the rear. The scribed line just over the cut is the actual fender line, I have a piece of 1/4" rod rolled to the same diameter I'll weld to the inside of the fender, then hammer the sheet around it so it has a finished, reinforced edge.
Here's my engine and tranny:
The engine block side of the motor mounts were built to accept this bushing:
These show the modification to the 1980 version D300 to bolt on a "normal" HD output housing designed for a 1981+ 'case:
The 4" stretch, and cutting a 37" diameter wheelwell. I cut nothing from the front of the wheelwell, and about 1.5" or 2" off the rear. The scribed line just over the cut is the actual fender line, I have a piece of 1/4" rod rolled to the same diameter I'll weld to the inside of the fender, then hammer the sheet around it so it has a finished, reinforced edge.
Here's my engine and tranny:
The engine block side of the motor mounts were built to accept this bushing:
The mounts. Passenger side:
Driver's side. Different gusset since the bolt hole is in the middle on this one.
Bof o' dem:
Installed on the block temporarily. Obviously I still need to paint them and press bushings in. The driver's side one has the socket in there to illustrate why the gusset looks the way it does. (cuz it has to)
Driver's side. Different gusset since the bolt hole is in the middle on this one.
Bof o' dem:
Installed on the block temporarily. Obviously I still need to paint them and press bushings in. The driver's side one has the socket in there to illustrate why the gusset looks the way it does. (cuz it has to)
On the stretch section, I haven't filled in the top of the fenderwells since the new cut line goes above their level, and I don't know how far the tire will move up into the "tubbed" area, so that will come later. I also haven't filled in the floor, because I think there's a fair chance I'll have to build a raised section to allow upper control arm mounts to come up through the floor on full compression. That will have to come later also.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Wow Carl, I always love seeing your fab work. Those motor mounts look great! The stretch of the tub looks real clean too, I don't think it will be visible. Looks great so far!
Thanks! I'm actually fairly disappointed in how well my welds worked out. Happens every time I don't weld anything for quite a while, I forget how to do it. Plus my hands aren't as steady when I'm out of practice, so you get the inconsistency you can see.
Oh well, at least the motormounts aren't really going to be visible in the end, so they're a good place to warm up.
Oh well, at least the motormounts aren't really going to be visible in the end, so they're a good place to warm up.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Cool motor mounts! Flared holes are the coolestest!
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Hmmmm.....looks strangely familiar.
yellowbronco
Cuts Through Grease !!!
- Location
- Moab
Corban_White
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Payson, AZ
Carl, on the Tcase, did you just fill that area in with weld and then mill it flat and drill/tap the hole or is it a piece you welded on? Also, those motor mount bushings look like they have more flex than the typical poly/rubber bushing-more along the lines of an OEM mount. If that is true, where did you get them? Everything looks great!
Badger
I am the Brute squad
- Location
- South Salt Lake
The motor mounts look to be Jeep front control arm bushings.
Looking really good Carl keep up the good work and post more pictures......!
Looking really good Carl keep up the good work and post more pictures......!
I cut a piece of 3/8" plate to the triangular shape, then welded it on, ground it flat, drilled/tapped the hole.
Badger's pretty much right....Jeep TJ/XJ/ZJ/others front (or rear, if applicable) lower control arm bushing. There are several variations and brands, but for control arm use none last as long as the genuine Clevite bushings, which these are. I have a suspicion the motor mounts aren't going to see the same loads a control arm will, so a cheap knockoff bushing would work....but I had these bushings already and I don't want to have to replace them, so there you go.
The bushings themselves are around $13 each from Teraflex (same ones they use in the control arms as well as Hemi motor mounts), and the machined eyelets are around the same price as well, IIRC.
yellowbronco
Cuts Through Grease !!!
- Location
- Moab
I'm ready for more exciting pics....
I'm ready for more exciting pics....
All right, these should provide all the excitement you can handle!
Since I deleted the A/C compressor in favor of an engine mount, I needed to put an idler pulley in to make the serpentine belt work. Pretty simple, just a piece of plate to bolt to the front of the block, a chunk of solid steel drilled and tapped in a lathe, and a piece of tubing in between. Plus a new idler pulley, and a bolt and spacer from a junkyard.
The new length of the belt measures 79 1/2". That's with no pressure on the spring tensioner, just holding the old (cut) belt in place. Any experience with what length I might need? I'm guessing maybe an inch shorter than what I measured?
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