Winter motorcycle project; DR650
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
Lovin it! 
I can't believe how small and agile your bike looks without that tank!
YOUKNOW
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan, UT
The main components of the RMZ fork swap...
I picked up the forks, triple clamps, rim/tire/disc brake and axle shaft all separate from each other, thru Ebay. Putting them together was fun.
The steering head bearings are interchangeable between the RMZ and DR, so bolting the RMZ forks onto the DR is a simple operation. Its the rest of the project that gets interesting. The DR caliper will bolt onto the RMZ fork, making it one less part to buy.
It looks like the forks have a DLC coating. Is it me or the picture. That will improve the ride of your steed if it is true. Also on another post by Rotbox, my neighbor in Cali was in the moto industry. He would tell me that the new technology would always go the MX and SX bikes first. Then all of the new technology would be tested and then trickle down to the other areas of the sport like atv's and dual sports. For example, my dad bought a drz 650 I think in 2006, and it was still air cooled. It also doesn't hurt to say that Suzuki is hurting right now for money as well. Ryan Dungey got his championship bonuses this year, but not on time.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
It's deceiving... the bike is still plenty heavy. The factory bike is decently 'thin', but it's still a pig. And it's nowhere near agile, IMO. It might be a bit easier to maneuver without that big tank, but with the poopy stock suspension and the weight, it's still not easy to toss around. Obviously my Safari tank is massive, but it adds stability to the bike IMO... until you start to tip it over at slow speed. The Safari tank also acts as a fairing when riding on the highway. I really like how this bike is coming together, I think it will be a well-rounded adventure/traveling bike.
My stock '05 DR650 for comparison.- http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?t=55244
I have no idea what a DLC coating is... so, sure!
I don't doubt what you're saying though, the RMZ forks are light-years ahead of the stock DR650 forks as far as technology and build quality.
FYI... Suzuki doesn't build a DRZ650. There is a DRZ400 that is built in various models (supermoto, dirt, street legal, etc) which are all water cooled and a DR650 that is built in only 1 model. They are 2 very different bikes and the DR650 has always been air cooled. I love the air/oil cooled DR650, it's super simple and works well. I think it's a great bike for big dual sport and adventure-type riding.
I for one hope Suzuki never water cools the DR650 or ads EFI, simple is good when you're in the middle of nowhere!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Just to update the fork swap and other upgrades... it's almost all together, other than a few snags.
I am having a pretty big problem that has me stumped...
I decided to disassemble my ignition switch, since it was pretty bulky and I wanted to reduce the size. I ended up taking it apart too far and I wasn't able to re-assemble it, so I decided to wire up the ignition as a push-button system. I got everything re-wired like the factory wiring diagram indicates it should be and I'm not getting spark. Everything else works like it should, power to the lights, starter, etc.
I've tried a few things, fuses are good... I'm wondering if I somehow blew the CDI or something in my toying around with the wires. I hate wiring and diagnostics, so it's slow going.
One of my snags was wiring up the TrailTech Vapor... I ordered it for a DR650, but since I'm using a RMZ front end, the magnet/bolt for the speedo that goes into the wheel, didn't fit. I called TrailTech and they sent out a bolt kit for a RMZ, at NO charge and NO shipping! Great folks there, I was very happy with that!
I do need to update the pics of the HDB bars, the Trail Tech Vapor that's all wired up and the neat HDB button system. I wired up my headlight so I can now turn it off while starting the bike, for more starting power. Before the headlight was on, all the time if the ignition was on. Now I can turn the headlight off, start the bike with all battery power going to the starter, then turn on the headlight and ride!
I am having a pretty big problem that has me stumped...
I decided to disassemble my ignition switch, since it was pretty bulky and I wanted to reduce the size. I ended up taking it apart too far and I wasn't able to re-assemble it, so I decided to wire up the ignition as a push-button system. I got everything re-wired like the factory wiring diagram indicates it should be and I'm not getting spark. Everything else works like it should, power to the lights, starter, etc.
I've tried a few things, fuses are good... I'm wondering if I somehow blew the CDI or something in my toying around with the wires. I hate wiring and diagnostics, so it's slow going.
One of my snags was wiring up the TrailTech Vapor... I ordered it for a DR650, but since I'm using a RMZ front end, the magnet/bolt for the speedo that goes into the wheel, didn't fit. I called TrailTech and they sent out a bolt kit for a RMZ, at NO charge and NO shipping! Great folks there, I was very happy with that!
I do need to update the pics of the HDB bars, the Trail Tech Vapor that's all wired up and the neat HDB button system. I wired up my headlight so I can now turn it off while starting the bike, for more starting power. Before the headlight was on, all the time if the ignition was on. Now I can turn the headlight off, start the bike with all battery power going to the starter, then turn on the headlight and ride!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Ok, updated pics of the progress...
The RMZ lower triple clamp did not have a bolt hole for the fairing, so I had to get creative. Some 2 part JB Weld secured a nut into place and it was easier than welding to the aluminum. It may be ghetto, but it works and with the 2 other factory bolt holes on the DR400SM headlight brackets, it should be plenty strong. Plus, the JB weld will be out of sight, to that's a plus!
Next up are the Highway Dirt Bikes handguards with folding mirrors, along with their push-button switches, LED's and the Trail Tech Vapor.
And how it's sitting now, until I get the wiring issue figured out...
The RMZ lower triple clamp did not have a bolt hole for the fairing, so I had to get creative. Some 2 part JB Weld secured a nut into place and it was easier than welding to the aluminum. It may be ghetto, but it works and with the 2 other factory bolt holes on the DR400SM headlight brackets, it should be plenty strong. Plus, the JB weld will be out of sight, to that's a plus!
Next up are the Highway Dirt Bikes handguards with folding mirrors, along with their push-button switches, LED's and the Trail Tech Vapor.
And how it's sitting now, until I get the wiring issue figured out...
Nice, I just did the exact same mod on my bike. It always bothered me that the headlight auto came on. The led setup is pretty slick, I may have to add that.
Looks like it's coming together nicely. Can't want to see it once it's finished.
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
I'll have to check back more often to see the progress! Cool project, and I really like the addition of the Vapor and RMZ forks. I don't remember reading it, but have you re-sprung/re-valved the forks yet?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Nice, I just did the exact same mod on my bike. It always bothered me that the headlight auto came on. The led setup is pretty slick, I may have to add that.
Looks like it's coming together nicely. Can't want to see it once it's finished.
I don't understand why bikes come that way, but it's easy enough to change.
If I wasn't having the wiring/spark issue, I would have been out riding the DR last weekend, testing out the RMZ forks.
Thanks Von! It will be a big improvement, but I don't think you'll see me on the Ridge Trail up AF Canyon on a DR650 again.
The forks have been gone thru by RG3 and were set up for a 160lb rider for stadium cross.
I'm thinking (hoping?) that since they're built for a lighter rider and stadium cross riding, they will do well with a heavier rider, on a heavier bike, that isn't going to spend much time in the air. I got them on Ebay for the going rate of factory take-off RMZ forks, so if the current spring rate and valving needs work, there's room to get it done.
YOUKNOW
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan, UT
DLC is "diamond like coating", it is an extra coating that would be applied to the fork tubes for extra slide. Stock for tubes have stiction even when they are fresh from a rebuild and loose a lot more of the "slide" after a few rides. After a coating of DLC, the forks work like magic. There is no friction at all, they slide like you wouldn't imagine. Let me give a great example - there are regular snow sleds that work great. Then there is Clark Griswold from Christmas vacation, and his modified sled - "This is a new non-caloric silicon-based kitchen lubricant my company has been working on. It creats a surface 500 times more slippery than any cooking oil. Ahhh! We're really going to fly down the hill with this stuff." DLC is the caloric silicon-based kitchen lubricant. There is a huge difference when riding on the track, or in your case, on/off road. It soaks up all of the little stuff and slides so easy on the big jumps/bumps. All factory MX/SX teams do this to their bikes, and generally is expensive to be done. Good buy for you!
As for the Suzuki, it is a DR650, sadly never riden. My dad lives in Lake Havasu, Az and could ride from his backyard to thousands of miles of trails. I see your point about the water cooling and EFI, works good for some, others not so much (when you dont know how to work on a bike).
- Location
- Smithfield Utah
If I wasn't having the wiring/spark issue, I would have been out riding the DR last weekend, testing out the RMZ forks.
Bummer. Do you have a service manual? It was mandatory for me when I bought my "no spark" RM250 and wiring is actually pretty simple once you break it down but you need the right tools. With a manual and a good multi-meter you should be able to track down a CDI, Stator, coil or other problem very easily and quickly. The Clymer manuals are actually pretty good, but the Suzuki manual will be the best by far. Good luck! I seriously think you have one of the best built DR650's out there--Can't wait to see more
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Good to know, thanks for the education!
You should tell your dad that you'll take care of that DR until he's ready to ride it again.
Bummer. Do you have a service manual? It was mandatory for me when I bought my "no spark" RM250 and wiring is actually pretty simple once you break it down but you need the right tools. With a manual and a good multi-meter you should be able to track down a CDI, Stator, coil or other problem very easily and quickly. The Clymer manuals are actually pretty good, but the Suzuki manual will be the best by far. Good luck! I seriously think you have one of the best built DR650's out there--Can't wait to see more
I do have a manual, it looks like the CDI got fried when I was playing with the wires.
I did find a used one in Vegas that will be on the way tomorrow and hopefully I can get it back running quickly. There are many well built DR's out there, but if I can do what I want to (more POWER!!), I'll be very happy!
I believe that in general, bikes are sprung for the weight and then valved for the ride. You will likely find that your springs are a bit soft and your valving is a bit firm. But they could even each other out well.
What I'm really waiting for is how you like the folding mirrors on your HDB hand guards. I've been watching for a mirror solution that doesn't either a) provide poor visibility or b) is prone to getting torn off. My current folding mirror provides an excellent view of my left arm whenever I want it.
Got updates?
Jared
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I'm hoping that the springs and valving work well together, once I finally get it running again I'll be sure to report! Even if I have to re-spring it down the road, I know I'll be very happy with the initial improvement over the stock DR front end.
Caleb is running the HBD hand guards and I think he has the mirrors too. I'm sure he has used his and could tell you more about the view. From what I've seen, I think the HDB mirrors are going to be a great improvement over the stock DR mirrors, which would show my arms as well.
Yeah, I really like the mirror on the HDB guards. However, they are still a mirror on a thumper. You still get a good mount of vibrations in them. They are very usable though, getting the right angle can be a bit tough (search ADVRider and you'll see some guys trim their handguards to get the right angle) but once set, they stay in place and you can definitely see behind you...unlike my Acerbis mirror I had before.
I have absolutely no complaints about the HDB setup. IMO, it's got to be one of the best investments I have made. Paul is one of the best business owners I've ever dealt with. On my first order, the Vapor guard was a bit delayed so he sent me a HDB T-shirt. Then I was wondering about a stabilizer mount using his setup, so he sent me his setup for the Scotts for FREE! Then I ordered some of the buttons from him, I ordered 4 black and he sent me 7 with 5 black and two red and then to top it off, he refunded most of my shipping because the actual shipping charges were less. Seriously, what business refunds shipping when the actual is less than the quoted. Top notch, and the icing on the cake is the quality is far better than any other handguard setup out there. He'll get all the business I can send his way.
I have absolutely no complaints about the HDB setup. IMO, it's got to be one of the best investments I have made. Paul is one of the best business owners I've ever dealt with. On my first order, the Vapor guard was a bit delayed so he sent me a HDB T-shirt. Then I was wondering about a stabilizer mount using his setup, so he sent me his setup for the Scotts for FREE! Then I ordered some of the buttons from him, I ordered 4 black and he sent me 7 with 5 black and two red and then to top it off, he refunded most of my shipping because the actual shipping charges were less. Seriously, what business refunds shipping when the actual is less than the quoted. Top notch, and the icing on the cake is the quality is far better than any other handguard setup out there. He'll get all the business I can send his way.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Absolutely agree about doing business with Paul, he's one in a million!
I ordered a paid of bars with my HDB hand guard order and had him thread them. Even then, he included a new tap, in case I ever wanted to thread another set of bars. I can only imagine how much that tap cost! He also sent me tons of extra parts, buttons, lights, etc. Also tossed in a pair of white hand guards, along with the black I ordered.
The end product has to be the best hand guard out there, very high quality and refined. Paul has done his home work and I hope he's getting his reward!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Guess what I rode this afternoon!! :greg:
After asking on ThumperTalk, a couple of guys mentioned that there is a needed resistor if you're going to replace the key switch with a push-button ignition switch. With a little tinkering, I learned that I needed one resistor... a 20 cent part at Radio Shack.
All I needed was a 100 ohm ¼ watt 5% resistor between the Orange/Yellow and the Black/White. I tied the Brown & Gray together, then put a switch between the Red & Orange, which go to the main power switch. I soldered all the connections, then covered them with heat shrink tubing and put the stock wiring sleeve back over everything. Everything now works like it should!
Here's some pics of what I did.-
And the bike on the first ride out, with new RMZ forks, Highway Dirt Bike guards and TrailTech Vapor!
Everything went well, until the cheesy zip ties securing the front brake line to the fork guard broke! The brake line was dragging the knobs on the front tire, so I limped it back home. I intended to swap on a bigger zip-tie before the first ride, but got a little excited and forgot! I'm going to buy the proper clamp to secure it right.
I'm still running the RMZ wheel/tire, so eventually I'll need to swap the Tubliss setup and the Dunlop from the old DR650 wheel to the RMZ wheel. I added some 2" Rox bar risers and it's a noticeable difference, my bars are Woods bend (high & narrow), so combined with the Rox Risers, the bars sit pretty high. Riding around while sitting down it's a change, but not a bad thing. Offroad while standing up is where the change really shines, I can actually stand straight up and down, yet have my elbows bent to absorb the bumps.
Even though the ride was short, I was impressed with the change to the RMZ forks. Seems like they held my weight better and were much more predictable on bumps. I can't wait until the desert dries up and I can really try out the upgraded suspension!
After asking on ThumperTalk, a couple of guys mentioned that there is a needed resistor if you're going to replace the key switch with a push-button ignition switch. With a little tinkering, I learned that I needed one resistor... a 20 cent part at Radio Shack.
All I needed was a 100 ohm ¼ watt 5% resistor between the Orange/Yellow and the Black/White. I tied the Brown & Gray together, then put a switch between the Red & Orange, which go to the main power switch. I soldered all the connections, then covered them with heat shrink tubing and put the stock wiring sleeve back over everything. Everything now works like it should!
Here's some pics of what I did.-
And the bike on the first ride out, with new RMZ forks, Highway Dirt Bike guards and TrailTech Vapor!
Everything went well, until the cheesy zip ties securing the front brake line to the fork guard broke! The brake line was dragging the knobs on the front tire, so I limped it back home. I intended to swap on a bigger zip-tie before the first ride, but got a little excited and forgot! I'm going to buy the proper clamp to secure it right.
I'm still running the RMZ wheel/tire, so eventually I'll need to swap the Tubliss setup and the Dunlop from the old DR650 wheel to the RMZ wheel. I added some 2" Rox bar risers and it's a noticeable difference, my bars are Woods bend (high & narrow), so combined with the Rox Risers, the bars sit pretty high. Riding around while sitting down it's a change, but not a bad thing. Offroad while standing up is where the change really shines, I can actually stand straight up and down, yet have my elbows bent to absorb the bumps.
Even though the ride was short, I was impressed with the change to the RMZ forks. Seems like they held my weight better and were much more predictable on bumps. I can't wait until the desert dries up and I can really try out the upgraded suspension!
anderson750
I'm working on it Rose
- Location
- Price, Utah
With the upgraded forks, that bike is ready for a spring time 5MOH trip.