astjp2
Active Member
- Location
- Riverdale/Alaska
You can use explorer rotors, they are the same diameter and offset but are the 5x4-3/4 bolt pattern and the calipers interchange....for some models.
WJ knuckles on a TJ
- Thread starter I Lean
- Start date
PBRStreetgang
New Member
Great write up, I Lean. Any updates on your WJ knuckle swap?
I was curious about wheel clearance. You had mentioned that you were running 15" wheels. Did you have any contact issues with your TREs? What backspacing do / did your wheels have?
I was curious about wheel clearance. You had mentioned that you were running 15" wheels. Did you have any contact issues with your TREs? What backspacing do / did your wheels have?
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
It's @SoopaHick Jeep now, but no problems fitting the 15" wheels. I'm not sure of the back spacing but it's pretty average. He even has the larger tie rods in there and they clear fine.
PBRStreetgang
New Member
Thanks for the heads up, @Hickey!
I'm in the process of performing a WJ knuckle / brake swap on my TJ with the same steering configuration as @SoopaHick's rig; I'm trying to figure out necessary wheel offset, or if wheel spacers would be required. I currently have Raceline Rock 8 beadlocks with 3.75" offset. Thoughts?
I'm in the process of performing a WJ knuckle / brake swap on my TJ with the same steering configuration as @SoopaHick's rig; I'm trying to figure out necessary wheel offset, or if wheel spacers would be required. I currently have Raceline Rock 8 beadlocks with 3.75" offset. Thoughts?
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I think you would be fine, but you won't really know until you bolt one on. @SoopaHick is now running JK knuckles with the same wheels he had before and he's still clearing OK. I'll try to take some pics tomorrow if I remember.
PBRStreetgang
New Member
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
PBRStreetgang
New Member
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Again, these are JK knuckles pictured. He actually didn't need the grinding for the WJ knuckles.
- Location
- Payson, UT
I just finished a WJ knuckle swap, but am on 17's. If you want anything WJ knuckle specific, HMU, I can take pics of whatever you need. FWIW, I have the Akebono calipers.
ebryson
Active Member
- Location
- Bountiful, Utah
Does anyone know why we weld the hub spacers to the knuckle?
There isn't much pilot engagement into the knuckle with the spacer on, so you'd be relying on the shear strength of the bolts to keep your unit bearing on the truck. With the spacer welded, you're back to the pilot taking the majority of the load.
great!, I really like how all your track bar supports turned out, do you happen to have the cad cutting file? Greetings from MexicoThis will be a brief overview of what I did to my TJ front axle to put WJ knuckles on. Especially brief since I took zero pictures during the process, only after the fact. There are certainly several options of how, this is one of them.
Basically, this swap takes the outer knuckles, brake calipers and brackets from a WJ to upgrade the steering and brakes of a TJ/XJ/ZJ. To do that, you need to space the unit bearing out from the knuckle, since the WJ uses a different setup. The spacer gets welded onto the knuckle, and is sandwiched between it and the unit bearing. The WJ also uses a different lower ball joint, so that needs to be swapped also.
The basic parts needed are the knuckles, brake calipers, and brake brackets from a WJ axle. You also need brake rotors and lower ball joints--I bought new on both of these. You'll use your TJ brake rotor as a pattern to drill new lug holes into the WJ rotors, in between the factory holes. (the WJ is 5x5" lug pattern, the TJ is 5x4.5") Then you'll need the knuckle spacers, trackbar brackets, swaybar brackets, and new trackbar/drag link/tie rod.
This is a picture of the parts I made. The 4 pieces on the left make up the axle-side trackbar bracket, then the swaybar mount and knuckle spacer, then the frame-side trackbar mount is the 4 pieces on the right.
Here is the main thing we're after: The two steering arms on the passenger side knuckle, so you can separate the drag link and tie rod. (and have a real, wheel-to-wheel tie rod) You can also see the axle-side trackbar mount, which needs to be altered when you alter the position of the drag link. Separate issue, I also boxed the front of the factory upper control arm bracket, since those are prone to bending if you leave them open on the front. You can also see the end of the swaybar link bracket.
Backside of the axle-side bracket:
Here is the frame-side bracket. It can't stick out too far outside the frame if you want to use a swaybar like an Antirock, or my Teraflex dual-rate S/T swaybar.
This shows the swaybar bracket fairly well. This is the driver's side, and it doesn't need to be so high here. On the passenger side it does need to be up high to clear the drag link. These weld onto the top of the inner knuckle.
In addition to the steering, you get better brakes with this setup. The rotor is about 1" larger diameter compared to the TJ, and the caliper is huge. There is about 1/8" of clearance to my 15" wheel...but it sure stops better than it did before!
One possible downside to this setup, is that it requires a longer pitman arm to get full steering. This is where I messed up a little bit--I intended to use a totally flat pitman arm, and made the trackbar brackets accordingly--but then found out the nut for the tie rod end would hit my radiator. So, I went with this 1" drop arm from a Wagoneer instead. That makes my drag link and trackbar angles not quite matching anymore, but it's still closer than it ever was before.Also, this pitman is slightly longer than the one I used at first, so the trackbar gets friendly with the tie rod end. That could be fixed just by welding the frame-side bracket a little bit farther backward on the frame. I have adjusted the brackets shown in the first picture so the next one will be closer to correct using this same pitman arm.
On the tie rod--from the factory, the tie rod ends go in from the bottom. If you do that same thing, nothing special needs to be done. If you want to move the tie rod to the top of the steering arms as I have, you will need to use offset ends to get the tie rod a bit further forward....and even then, you'll need to trim the front of the coil spring perch to clear. I used tie rod ends from Teraflex, they are also available from Ruffstuff Specialties. (and you can see them in the pic showing the two steering links)
Let me know if you have questions, or need anything clarified.
Sure do, PM me your email address and I'll send 'em.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
Nice to see this thread pop up again.
Since it was started, @UPNO4 has done this conversion to my TJ. In my case, I had to install 1.5" spacers up front--my (aftermarket) 15" wheels won't quite clear the new hardware. This bums me out, as I don't like running wheel spacers and I also don't want to upgrade to 17" wheels.
I'll need to take a photo and post it here so we can see what piece interferes.
Since it was started, @UPNO4 has done this conversion to my TJ. In my case, I had to install 1.5" spacers up front--my (aftermarket) 15" wheels won't quite clear the new hardware. This bums me out, as I don't like running wheel spacers and I also don't want to upgrade to 17" wheels.
I'll need to take a photo and post it here so we can see what piece interferes.
- Location
- Payson, UT
Do you happen to know which calipers you have? (Teves or Akebono) Supposedly the Teves calipers are more compliant with 15" wheels, but are the less desirable caliper. Something to consider if nothing else.
TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
No, I don't. I don't even remember what specific piece rubs without the spacers. Like I said, I need to crawl back under there and take a photo.
XJEEPER
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland Springs
Relevant content which might be of value. I completed this braking/steering upgrade on my XJ back in 2010, and it’s been one of my favorite mods.
I used new Akebono calipers, JY WJ knuckles, JKS weld-on hub spacers, JKS OTK trackbar mount, 2003 TJ hubs (unit bearings), Teraflex offset TREs, Goferit TRE tapered inserts (for OTK TRE orientation), 1.5” OD .250 wall DOM steering linkage, redrilled WJ rotors, raised sway bar endlink mounts with my Antirock setup. I also run a 1.25” billet wheel adapter with my TJ Rubi wheels (16x8) for a net backspacing of 4”, so no clearance issues with the TRE’s and wheels.
I used new Akebono calipers, JY WJ knuckles, JKS weld-on hub spacers, JKS OTK trackbar mount, 2003 TJ hubs (unit bearings), Teraflex offset TREs, Goferit TRE tapered inserts (for OTK TRE orientation), 1.5” OD .250 wall DOM steering linkage, redrilled WJ rotors, raised sway bar endlink mounts with my Antirock setup. I also run a 1.25” billet wheel adapter with my TJ Rubi wheels (16x8) for a net backspacing of 4”, so no clearance issues with the TRE’s and wheels.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Well I've now had Carl's knuckles and brakes for over a year. I think this is going to get put on the lj this fall/ winter.🤣
Is there any reason not to just buy a teraflex tie rod and drag link? They aren't much more than buying the offset tre's and the solid aluminum is pretty bling.
Is there any reason not to just buy a teraflex tie rod and drag link? They aren't much more than buying the offset tre's and the solid aluminum is pretty bling.
If the lengths work, that seems like a fine option. Just make sure you get the correct taper on the tie rod ends. (large)