xj not running properly

race913

Southern Krawler
Location
Washington, Utah
for sure dude. I have an appt. for monday for a local shop that's not going to charge me an actual diagnostic fee. They sounded like it would be figured out pretty easily by the symptoms I discussed. So, I guess they will end up doing the work if its not too bad. Then I can go wheelin next weekend I guess. 2 weekends now with no Jeep. Ugh, what a long time this has been......
 

race913

Southern Krawler
Location
Washington, Utah
So, I still have all weekend to dwell on this damn thing. I picked up a couple cans of intake cleaner and went to town. Pulled off throttle body and both sensors that are mounted to it and cleaned like crazy. Still no results. Symptons: Backfires badly when try to accelerate and actually had the throttle stick wide open(lucky its not running right or otherwise this could have been an issue). I have not ruled out tps yet. I can't find any vaccuum lines that are not connected properly. It still seems to run fine just parked, not in gear. Is this any better for description....? I am not wanting to give up on this thing just yet, but I want to go wheelin so bad....
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
I vote coolant temp sensor. Reading too cold. Not reaching closed loop= runs like sh1t. Scan tool would tell you some easy stuff like that and basic tps stuff.
 

tisjeep

Member
Ok let me give you the run down on checking the TPS your self. All you need is two paper clips and a five dollar voltmeter from wal-mart. Digital or analog doesnt really matter. You take your two paper clips and gently push them through the plug. Parallel with the wires. This Doesnt ruin the insulation if you do it gently. So when you have your paper lips stuck through they should go in and actually touch the termainals internally on the plug. With the key on engine off check if they made contact by touching your voltmeter to the two paper clips it should read about .5 Volts DC. If no voltage try to manipulate the papaer clips to get a a voltage. Now that you have voltage slowly open the throttle and watch the voltage may take a helper so you can hold the leads on. It should steadily climb with a wide open throttle voltage between 4.5 V DC to 5Volts Dc. the important thing to watch out for is that voltage doesnt drop off anywhere it should constantly increase until you get to wide open throttle. If you would like you can give me a call and I can walk you through it over the phone. 970-739-1975 Cody
 

race913

Southern Krawler
Location
Washington, Utah
I'll grab a volt meter tomorrow and try that for sure. I really want to figure this out. This will hopefully get me closer to my goal. Jeep running good again. I will also check on the coolant sensor. I really think that it has to do with fuel related sensor type issue. I am asking for advice though, so I obviously don't know. I am trying all the input I can get. If I can't get it to work you may be hearing from me. Thanks again...
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Faulty coolant sensor would throw a code - because it will never heat up and after 3? cycles not coming to temp.... Also, if it was always cold, it would run rich. But I like your thinking...

Does it run like crap after it's warmed up as well as cold? Or only when warm or?
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Faulty coolant sensor would throw a code - because it will never heat up and after 3? cycles not coming to temp.... Also, if it was always cold, it would run rich. But I like your thinking...

Does it run like crap after it's warmed up as well as cold? Or only when warm or?

I had a 94-95 yj do it at work. It was obd 1 but no codes. Coolant sensor fixed it.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Would a shotty Crank sensor throw a code on that year? Could be dirty and reading a little off or weak.
 

race913

Southern Krawler
Location
Washington, Utah
So, I just got my Jeep back. Plugs and wires totally shot. The problem is that I overlooked them because the cap and wires looked newer. So I did not even dig deeper. Now I am out $102 for labor and have lost my manhood. LOL... Oh well, I will be back on the trail this week. And, that is what is important. Thanks everyone. I should have just checked them.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
So, I just got my Jeep back. Plugs and wires totally shot. The problem is that I overlooked them because the cap and wires looked newer. So I did not even dig deeper. Now I am out $102 for labor and have lost my manhood. LOL... Oh well, I will be back on the trail this week. And, that is what is important. Thanks everyone. I should have just checked them.

Crap! Glad it was something simple though... could have been worse! thanks for the thread update. :cool:
 

jesse

Masshole
Location
Everywhere
i've been having trouble with my 91 xj too, after a few minutes of ideling it will drop and eventually cut out. this happens even if it is driving down the street, if you let off the gas at all it will die. I just switched in the good gauge set with the tach and I am not getting any reading for temp. and the oil pressure is about pegged on the high side. any ideas what would cause this?
 

_Auzzy_

Web Wheeling Extraordinaire
Location
Richfield Utah
Jesse-

may be a bad vacuum line maybe? jeep did a crap-tacular job with them by choosing plastic for the hoses and they like to crack. my YJ was given me the same problems but now I cut away at the plastic hoses and went and bought a bunch of rubber vacuum hose and just slid them over the old plug ins and sealed them with gasket sealer and let it dry before I ran it and now it runs perfect.
 
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race913

Southern Krawler
Location
Washington, Utah
Also, might want to check your idle sensor. On your throttle body next to your throttle position sensor. Idle sensor is the word I have for it. Probably something more tech. than that. I had to change one of those on my 1990 back in the day.
 

jesse

Masshole
Location
Everywhere
today i got the temp gauge working but broke the sensor so that will need to be replaced eventually, for now gravity is holding it in place. i switched the oil pressure sensor but now i don't get any reading. i got some intermittent readings so i probably just didn't make a good connection when i spliced in the connector.

i also tested the cps but there weren't any markings on the terminals so i don't know what the readings mean. i found a better how-to guide online than my repair manual so i will use that tomorow to see if the cps is the problem.
 
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