Glockman's Rubi LJ

N-Smooth · Apr 4, 2024

I have an old heim that I cover in antiseize and leave in while welding the tube adapters. That’s given me the best results FWIW

glockman · Apr 7, 2024

Picked up some new tube adapters at Midnight. Everything welded fine. New large taper rod ends from Teraflex and this is where I am.

So Chevy taper tie rods are too small and don't bottom out in the knuckle. The TF rod ends are tight but go too far out of the knuckle. I verified that I ordered large taper rod ends. So what am I missing here.

Hickey · Apr 7, 2024

glockman said:
Picked up some new tube adapters at Midnight. Everything welded fine. New large taper rod ends from Teraflex and this is where I am.

View attachment 171545

So Chevy taper tie rods are too small and don't bottom out in the knuckle. The TF rod ends are tight but go too far out of the knuckle. I verified that I ordered large taper rod ends. So what am I missing here.

When you say Chevy taper, do you mean Chevy 1-ton taper?

glockman · Apr 7, 2024

Hickey said:
When you say Chevy taper, do you mean Chevy 1-ton taper?

Yes ES2234L and ES2234R are the Chevy 1 ton taper ends I originally tried. They were loose.

I Lean · Apr 7, 2024

I think ES2010 R and L are the bigger ones, but that should match the Tera ends. (or at least it used to....)

You can put a spacer under the nut to make it all snug up properly. That is usually a hardened washer or two, but in your case it looks like there's a bit more space than I would expect. 🤷‍♂️

Herzog · Apr 7, 2024

Yea, not ideal but if the taper is fitting proper you could use a spacer on the bottom. The top spacing looks correct. It's almost as if the arm is too thin. I would rather the taper sit deep like that, less leverage to wobble out the taper.

I'd personally think about welding a thick bung/spacer on the bottom and ream it to match the taper... but in reality I'd probably just toss a spacer in. Or drill out and use heims

Hickey · Apr 7, 2024

Herzog said:
I'd personally think about welding a thick bung/spacer on the bottom and ream it to match the taper... but in reality I'd probably just toss a spacer in. Or drill out and use heims

I’d likely go one of these routes as well.

Teraflex states that these can be used with these sleeves after you drill out the knuckle to 0.875.

https://teraflex.com/dodge-dana-60-tie-rod-drag-link-stock-tapered-insert-sleeve-0-875-o-d-each.html

glockman · Apr 7, 2024

Hickey said:
I’d likely go one of these routes as well.

Teraflex states that these can be used with these sleeves after you drill out the knuckle to 0.875.

https://teraflex.com/dodge-dana-60-tie-rod-drag-link-stock-tapered-insert-sleeve-0-875-o-d-each.html

That's the way in leaning. Drill the knuckles out to 7/8 and use the inserts.

glockman · Apr 8, 2024

Randy at midnight convinced me to go the spacer route. So I put weld washers on the bottom to take up the extra stud length. I may weld them on later or do like Shane says and intend to but never get around to it. At any rate, it's back together. Brakes sooo much better but still needs sway bar end links and a better alignment.

glockman · Apr 11, 2024

Last night I centered the front and rear axles, verified both are square with the frame and did a better tow adjustment (1/8" tow in). Went back through re-torqued most of the fasteners and took it for another drive. Miles better even with no sway bar. It will even lock up the front tires now!!
I used Nate's alignment guide and found it pretty helpful.

I drove it to work today hitting every pothole and smiling at the lack of bump steer. When I got out of it at work, I noticed the tags expired in February. Damned monthly payment to the state for vehicle registration is getting old!

glockman · 2024-04-29T10:50:23-0600

Got the sway bar links put together and mounted. Took if for a drive and it was still wandering. I began to think Teraflex was right about the upper ball joint pre load.
I pulled the tie rod, unit bearings and axle shafts out. The passenger knuckle would move with one finger. Driver knuckle was super stiff. So I pulled the upper ball joint out in preparation to replace it with a TJ BJ. Then I remembered that these TF LBJ's are adjustable. I pulled out the special tool and found the drivers side was super tight. Backed the adjustment ring out a turn and it's all good now. Buttoned it up and it is WAY better. No more wandering.
My only issue now is play in the intermediate steering shaft/steering gear box. Anyone have a recommendation for a gear box? Red heads are $600 but I've heard mixed reviews.
The sector shaft has play at the slip joint but all other joints seem tight. I may put a tack on the slip joint that should break in the event of a crash but should tighten up the steering play.

Long winded way of saying you can indeed use JK upper and lower ball joints on a WJ knuckle swap on a TJ.

TRD270 · 2024-04-29T11:06:02-0600

glockman said:
Got the sway bar links put together and mounted. Took if for a drive and it was still wandering. I began to think Teraflex was right about the upper ball joint pre load.
I pulled the tie rod, unit bearings and axle shafts out. The passenger knuckle would move with one finger. Driver knuckle was super stiff. So I pulled the upper ball joint out in preparation to replace it with a TJ BJ. Then I remembered that these TF LBJ's are adjustable. I pulled out the special tool and found the drivers side was super tight. Backed the adjustment ring out a turn and it's all good now. Buttoned it up and it is WAY better. No more wandering.
My only issue now is play in the intermediate steering shaft/steering gear box. Anyone have a recommendation for a gear box? Red heads are $600 but I've heard mixed reviews.
The sector shaft has play at the slip joint but all other joints seem tight. I may put a tack on the slip joint that should break in the event of a crash but should tighten up the steering play.

Long winded way of saying you can indeed use JK upper and lower ball joints on a WJ knuckle swap on a TJ.

No experience with TJ’s but I had a redhead in my 2nd Gen D*dge and it tightened that hot mess up substantially.

I Lean · 2024-04-29T11:18:41-0600

TRD270 said:
No experience with TJ’s but I had a redhead in my 2nd Gen D*dge and it tightened that hot mess up substantially.

Same with my 2000 F350. Redhead FTW on that one.

N-Smooth · 2024-04-29T11:29:08-0600

Maybe a PSC box or a reman and add hydro assist while you're at it...?

Hickey · 2024-04-29T12:10:25-0600

I’ve heard that the H2 Hummer steering box is a big upgrade. I can’t say for sure if it will be the same splines as your sector shaft, but it should bolt up.

glockman · 2024-04-29T13:03:31-0600

Hickey said:
I’ve heard that the H2 Hummer steering box is a big upgrade. I can’t say for sure if it will be the same splines as your sector shaft, but it should bolt up.

From my very limited research, IFS boxes have a bushing on the sector shaft vs a bearing on straight axle boxes. That is the reason people state for not using a Durango box on a TJ. I wonder which the H2 box has.

Interesting read on Redhead's reman process.

https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/tdr98-pgs48-51-red-head-pdf.303333/

RockChucker · 2024-04-29T13:38:57-0600

glockman said:
From my very limited research, IFS boxes have a bushing on the sector shaft vs a bearing on straight axle boxes. That is the reason people state for not using a Durango box on a TJ. I wonder which the H2 box has.

Interesting read on Redhead's reman process.

https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/tdr98-pgs48-51-red-head-pdf.303333/

I’ve been in a few Durango boxes and more than a dozen saginaw boxes and they are all the same. Needle bearing above the splined portion of the shaft and a bushing in the top cap above the gear part. I don’t have experience with redhead, but I have chatted with Lee about steering ideas in the past. They have a cool upgrade where they install a 2nd needle bearing and then install a billet top cap with a 3rd needle bearing to replace the bushing. I have a friend that bought a Lee box for his Jeep and he loves it.
https://leepowersteering.com/pages/what-is-a-3-bearing-kit

Gravy · 2024-04-29T13:58:02-0600

If you don't already have a steering box brace that crosses the frame I would add that.
Durango box looks identical inside to a Jeep TJ Saginaw box.
I've rebuilt both
Drop Pitman arms put a lot of extra stress on that steering shaft.
For now you can increase the preload as well on top a quarter turn.

glockman · 2024-04-29T17:05:57-0600

I love knowing smart people.

Glockman's Rubi LJ

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser

Herzog

somewhat damaged

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks

TRD270

Emptying Pockets Again

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks

RockChucker

Well-Known Member

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks