Glockman's Rubi LJ

Updating the build thread after oh 7 years.

Specs
2006 Rubicon LJ
2003 5.3 LS
4l60E
NP241C with JB conversions SYE and 1310 flange
Novak Cable shifter.
Magnaflow exhaust
Swap details LS swap for the LJ


Teraflex lcg lift
Teraflex short front Upper control arms.
4" Teraflex springs
1" body lift and tummy tuck
Metal cloak track bars front and rear.
Teraflex Speed bumps Front and rear. Custom mounted in the frame on the rear. Details Here
Teraflex dual rate front sway bar.


Falcon TJ shocks
Currie Correctlync steering

37x12.50 R17 BFG KM2's on aluminum modular wheels.
1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers

Factory lockers front and rear
4.88 gears
Chromoly shafts in the rear
RCV's up front
Teraflex HD diff cover on the front.
LCA skids


JCR Aluminum Hi lined fenders.
Currie front bumper with grill hoop
Warn 9.5Ti
Rear crusher corners (unknown brand)
Warn rock sliders.


Rigid 2x2 spots on Hella A pillar mounts
Amazon special LED headlights
LED tail lights -Tractor supply style
Sport cage


When I bought it



Current pic



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[N-Smooth]

I have an old heim that I cover in antiseize and leave in while welding the tube adapters. That’s given me the best results FWIW

 

[glockman]

Picked up some new tube adapters at Midnight. Everything welded fine. New large taper rod ends from Teraflex and this is where I am.



So Chevy taper tie rods are too small and don't bottom out in the knuckle. The TF rod ends are tight but go too far out of the knuckle. I verified that I ordered large taper rod ends. So what am I missing here.

 

[Hickey]

Picked up some new tube adapters at Midnight. Everything welded fine. New large taper rod ends from Teraflex and this is where I am.

View attachment 171545

So Chevy taper tie rods are too small and don't bottom out in the knuckle. The TF rod ends are tight but go too far out of the knuckle. I verified that I ordered large taper rod ends. So what am I missing here.

When you say Chevy taper, do you mean Chevy 1-ton taper?

 

[glockman]

When you say Chevy taper, do you mean Chevy 1-ton taper?

Yes ES2234L and ES2234R are the Chevy 1 ton taper ends I originally tried. They were loose.

 

[I Lean]

I think ES2010 R and L are the bigger ones, but that should match the Tera ends. (or at least it used to....)

You can put a spacer under the nut to make it all snug up properly. That is usually a hardened washer or two, but in your case it looks like there's a bit more space than I would expect. 🤷‍♂️

 

[Herzog]

Yea, not ideal but if the taper is fitting proper you could use a spacer on the bottom. The top spacing looks correct. It's almost as if the arm is too thin. I would rather the taper sit deep like that, less leverage to wobble out the taper.

I'd personally think about welding a thick bung/spacer on the bottom and ream it to match the taper... but in reality I'd probably just toss a spacer in. Or drill out and use heims

 

[Hickey]

I'd personally think about welding a thick bung/spacer on the bottom and ream it to match the taper... but in reality I'd probably just toss a spacer in. Or drill out and use heims

I’d likely go one of these routes as well.

Teraflex states that these can be used with these sleeves after you drill out the knuckle to 0.875.

https://teraflex.com/dodge-dana-60-tie-rod-drag-link-stock-tapered-insert-sleeve-0-875-o-d-each.html

 

[glockman]

I’d likely go one of these routes as well.

Teraflex states that these can be used with these sleeves after you drill out the knuckle to 0.875.

https://teraflex.com/dodge-dana-60-tie-rod-drag-link-stock-tapered-insert-sleeve-0-875-o-d-each.html

That's the way in leaning. Drill the knuckles out to 7/8 and use the inserts.

 

[glockman]

Randy at midnight convinced me to go the spacer route. So I put weld washers on the bottom to take up the extra stud length. I may weld them on later or do like Shane says and intend to but never get around to it. At any rate, it's back together. Brakes sooo much better but still needs sway bar end links and a better alignment.

 

[glockman]

Last night I centered the front and rear axles, verified both are square with the frame and did a better tow adjustment (1/8" tow in). Went back through re-torqued most of the fasteners and took it for another drive. Miles better even with no sway bar. It will even lock up the front tires now!!
I used Nate's alignment guide and found it pretty helpful.

I drove it to work today hitting every pothole and smiling at the lack of bump steer. When I got out of it at work, I noticed the tags expired in February. Damned monthly payment to the state for vehicle registration is getting old!

 

[glockman]

Got the sway bar links put together and mounted. Took if for a drive and it was still wandering. I began to think Teraflex was right about the upper ball joint pre load.
I pulled the tie rod, unit bearings and axle shafts out. The passenger knuckle would move with one finger. Driver knuckle was super stiff. So I pulled the upper ball joint out in preparation to replace it with a TJ BJ. Then I remembered that these TF LBJ's are adjustable. I pulled out the special tool and found the drivers side was super tight. Backed the adjustment ring out a turn and it's all good now. Buttoned it up and it is WAY better. No more wandering.
My only issue now is play in the intermediate steering shaft/steering gear box. Anyone have a recommendation for a gear box? Red heads are $600 but I've heard mixed reviews.
The sector shaft has play at the slip joint but all other joints seem tight. I may put a tack on the slip joint that should break in the event of a crash but should tighten up the steering play.

Long winded way of saying you can indeed use JK upper and lower ball joints on a WJ knuckle swap on a TJ.

 

[TRD270]

Got the sway bar links put together and mounted. Took if for a drive and it was still wandering. I began to think Teraflex was right about the upper ball joint pre load.
I pulled the tie rod, unit bearings and axle shafts out. The passenger knuckle would move with one finger. Driver knuckle was super stiff. So I pulled the upper ball joint out in preparation to replace it with a TJ BJ. Then I remembered that these TF LBJ's are adjustable. I pulled out the special tool and found the drivers side was super tight. Backed the adjustment ring out a turn and it's all good now. Buttoned it up and it is WAY better. No more wandering.
My only issue now is play in the intermediate steering shaft/steering gear box. Anyone have a recommendation for a gear box? Red heads are $600 but I've heard mixed reviews.
The sector shaft has play at the slip joint but all other joints seem tight. I may put a tack on the slip joint that should break in the event of a crash but should tighten up the steering play.

Long winded way of saying you can indeed use JK upper and lower ball joints on a WJ knuckle swap on a TJ.

No experience with TJ’s but I had a redhead in my 2nd Gen D*dge and it tightened that hot mess up substantially.

 

[I Lean]

No experience with TJ’s but I had a redhead in my 2nd Gen D*dge and it tightened that hot mess up substantially.

Same with my 2000 F350. Redhead FTW on that one.

 

[N-Smooth]

Maybe a PSC box or a reman and add hydro assist while you're at it...?

 

[Hickey]

I’ve heard that the H2 Hummer steering box is a big upgrade. I can’t say for sure if it will be the same splines as your sector shaft, but it should bolt up.

 

[glockman]

I’ve heard that the H2 Hummer steering box is a big upgrade. I can’t say for sure if it will be the same splines as your sector shaft, but it should bolt up.

From my very limited research, IFS boxes have a bushing on the sector shaft vs a bearing on straight axle boxes. That is the reason people state for not using a Durango box on a TJ. I wonder which the H2 box has.

Interesting read on Redhead's reman process.

https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/tdr98-pgs48-51-red-head-pdf.303333/

 

[RockChucker]

From my very limited research, IFS boxes have a bushing on the sector shaft vs a bearing on straight axle boxes. That is the reason people state for not using a Durango box on a TJ. I wonder which the H2 box has.

Interesting read on Redhead's reman process.

https://wranglertjforum.com/attachments/tdr98-pgs48-51-red-head-pdf.303333/

I’ve been in a few Durango boxes and more than a dozen saginaw boxes and they are all the same. Needle bearing above the splined portion of the shaft and a bushing in the top cap above the gear part. I don’t have experience with redhead, but I have chatted with Lee about steering ideas in the past. They have a cool upgrade where they install a 2nd needle bearing and then install a billet top cap with a 3rd needle bearing to replace the bushing. I have a friend that bought a Lee box for his Jeep and he loves it.
https://leepowersteering.com/pages/what-is-a-3-bearing-kit

 

[Gravy]

If you don't already have a steering box brace that crosses the frame I would add that.
Durango box looks identical inside to a Jeep TJ Saginaw box.
I've rebuilt both
Drop Pitman arms put a lot of extra stress on that steering shaft.
For now you can increase the preload as well on top a quarter turn.

 

[glockman]

I love knowing smart people.

 

[glockman]

I have been fighting death wobble on this for a few months. The odd thing is, it never happens when hitting a hole with the passenger tire, it just appears out of no where at 55mph on a smooth road. I've checked all the control arm joints, TRE and Track bar. There is the smallest amount of play, barely detectable with your hand on the track bar to frame mount. My caster is 5ish degrees, tow is 1/8". It drives great until suddenly it starts to wobble both times for me it was on concrete highway. Tire pressure maybe? I need to chalk test them.
Any ideas?

Second issue, The TF dual rate sway bar has gotten so stiff to rotate in the frame bushings that I disconnected it. I can't find any suggested maintenance on these. Anyone ever have this issue? It was tight going in when I installed it and I'm guessing it has rusted the bar a bit. I may pound the sucker out and sand it and the bushing, then lube them up.