7MGE Swap update
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Originally posted by Herzog
Yeah really... how's it goin Greg? Haven't seen you on the forum for about 2 days now. Workin hard?
Too hard.....60 hrs in 5 days.... I'm about about half done at this point.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I decided I'm not going to use the Header because it'll be hard to route the exhaust, with the collector back so far. I'm going to use the manifold & run the exhaust between the Oil pan & Bellhousing. Also, I still have your Head Bolt Tool!! I forgot to give it to you last time....
I haven't been spending alot of time on it, the Engine & tranny are in, but I may have to pull the Tranny back out. I'm trying to figure out the Heater Core connections between the Motor and the truck. Then, mounting the Radiator (I trimmed the Rad. Supports to move the Rad 1.5" forward) & Elec. Fans.
SuperRunner
Turbo is my middle name
- Location
- Orem, Utah
Ok, I will problably come pick that back up then. I may try to use it on tobin's swap. You going to be around on saturday?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Yeah, I'll be around. Call me before you come by, just to make sure! Don't let me forget your Head Bolt tool.....
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
OK, more work done on the Toy recently.....
I have the Tranny, T-Cases & Drivelines bolted back in & I'm going to toss up the T-Case skidplate tonight. I got the Heater Core hooked up, too.
I need to find a good Radiator Shop and have the Inlet & Outlet swapped. Once I have it mounted, it's time to install the Elec. Fans. After that, it's all about the small parts, the wiring & some exhaust work.
I have the Tranny, T-Cases & Drivelines bolted back in & I'm going to toss up the T-Case skidplate tonight. I got the Heater Core hooked up, too.
I need to find a good Radiator Shop and have the Inlet & Outlet swapped. Once I have it mounted, it's time to install the Elec. Fans. After that, it's all about the small parts, the wiring & some exhaust work.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks Bob, I'll remember that.
Originally posted by supergper
WOW, you got a lot done...sweet, maybe I should work on mine
BS'ing with you got me motivated a bit more!
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I 've had VERY good results with Jmac radiator.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I wrote kinda a FAQ on WildYoats about this swap & wanted to post it here, too-
All my info & some parts have been from Rob, so he's the real Guru on these. He know's the 7M swap inside & out. This is my first experience with it, but so far, I'm really impressed!
Here's the basics of the swap-
I chose the non-Turbo, just to keep parts breakage to a minimum. I think it's important to maintain a rig w/ a balanced drivetrain. I plan on keeping the other Toyota components, no Dana 60's here. All of my info is based on the non-Turbo.
The 7MGE was available in '86.5-'93 Supras & is a well proven motor. I've been driving my '89 for the past year & it's been pretty impressive. It's a straight six (Plenty of Torque) & DOHC, 4 Valves per Cyl, meaning that the thing really wakes up @ over 4,000 RPM. It will pull pretty hard till 6,500-6,800 RPM. (Mine has 133k on it, a new/rebuilt motor may be better)
The 7M flaws are Rod Knocks & Head Gasket problems. The Rod Knocks seem to happen with mileage, but aren't detremental. Head Gasket problems usually occour on Turbo engines that are turning high boost & using the stock Head Gaskets. The Heat takes them out.
Bellhousing & Tranny info-
The Turbo (7MGTE) & non-Turbo (7MGE) motors have diffrent Bellhousings & Trannys. The non-Turbo bellhousing has the same tranny bolt pattern & will bolt up to your Toyota 4x4, 4 Cyl Tranny (W56). The input shaft on the Tranny has the same spline count as the Supra clutch, so you use all the Supra Clutch parts.
Moving onto the Motor Mounts-
You need Mounts from a 1st Generation Supra (5MGE Motor) inorder to drop the 7MGE into your 22R/RE Mounts. You only need the Block side of the Mount, not the Rubber Isolator. The older mounts bolt onto the 7MGE Block forward of the original mounts, & will allow you to drop the 7M right onto the 22R/RE Motor Mount Stud. There's about a 2-3 degree diffrence in the surface of the 2 Mounts, but it's not a huge deal. Rob mentioned that he was looking into building some Motor Mount shims, to compensate. Also, there's a Alignment Pin (1/4"??) on the 5MGE Mount... You should drill the 22R/RE mount so the Pin will drop in. (I took the Grinder to mine, since the motor was in already & I returned my borrowed Engine Hoist.)
How about Exhaust?
The Manifold is on the Passenger side, so you either have to run it under the Motor and out the Drivers side (Which I plan on doing) or deal with the T-Case & Gas Tank being in the way.
Cooling?
I'm going to use the 4 Cyl Radiator for now... If it has issues with cooling, I'll get a Radiator for a 4.3 Swap. I was told by a Radiator Shop that the 6 Cyl Radiator was capable of cooling a Ford 5.0 V8, so it ought to cool a 3.0 Toyota engine. You'll have to move the radiator forward about 1.5-2" and run a Elec. Fan or 2 on the front. I plan on running 2, 10" Electric Fans. The Coolant inlet & outlet need to be swapped on the Top & Bottom. I had a local shop do this for $45.
Fuel Delivery-
The 22RE & 7MGE have similar pressure requirements. I believe the 7MGE specs list 1 more PSI than the 22RE Pump.... that's all. I'm going to try the 22RE Pump & if I have staration probs at high RPM's, then I'll get a Supra Pump or something aftermarket.
Dropping in the Engine-
There's about 3/4" of room between the Firewall & Radiator support, as the motor goes in. You'll need to drop the T-Case(s) & Tranny, inorder to get the engine in. It's very tight! Once it's in, it is a great fit.
Misc. Issues-
The Battery on the 4x4's, sits where the AFM goes on the Supra. I'll either move my battery to the Drivers side or put it in the Bed.
200 Horsepower, 190 Ft Lbs, & no pricy Adapters or welding in new Motor Mounts? I'll take the 7MGE any day over a 4.3.
So far, that's what I have done. The motor is in, the Tranny, T-Cases & Driveshafts are all bolted up & the Radiator has been worked on. I still need to build the Rad. Mounts & get the Electric Fans. From there, it's wiring & routing fuel lines, hooking up the radiator hoses & finally exhaust.
My swap has been taking forever because I started with a 22R to EFI Swap, then ditched it after I had some problems. My options were to rebuild the 22RE ($1,200 min) or look into a swap. So far, I believe my 7M Swap has cost me under $1000.
All my info & some parts have been from Rob, so he's the real Guru on these. He know's the 7M swap inside & out. This is my first experience with it, but so far, I'm really impressed!
Here's the basics of the swap-
I chose the non-Turbo, just to keep parts breakage to a minimum. I think it's important to maintain a rig w/ a balanced drivetrain. I plan on keeping the other Toyota components, no Dana 60's here. All of my info is based on the non-Turbo.
The 7MGE was available in '86.5-'93 Supras & is a well proven motor. I've been driving my '89 for the past year & it's been pretty impressive. It's a straight six (Plenty of Torque) & DOHC, 4 Valves per Cyl, meaning that the thing really wakes up @ over 4,000 RPM. It will pull pretty hard till 6,500-6,800 RPM. (Mine has 133k on it, a new/rebuilt motor may be better)
The 7M flaws are Rod Knocks & Head Gasket problems. The Rod Knocks seem to happen with mileage, but aren't detremental. Head Gasket problems usually occour on Turbo engines that are turning high boost & using the stock Head Gaskets. The Heat takes them out.
Bellhousing & Tranny info-
The Turbo (7MGTE) & non-Turbo (7MGE) motors have diffrent Bellhousings & Trannys. The non-Turbo bellhousing has the same tranny bolt pattern & will bolt up to your Toyota 4x4, 4 Cyl Tranny (W56). The input shaft on the Tranny has the same spline count as the Supra clutch, so you use all the Supra Clutch parts.
Moving onto the Motor Mounts-
You need Mounts from a 1st Generation Supra (5MGE Motor) inorder to drop the 7MGE into your 22R/RE Mounts. You only need the Block side of the Mount, not the Rubber Isolator. The older mounts bolt onto the 7MGE Block forward of the original mounts, & will allow you to drop the 7M right onto the 22R/RE Motor Mount Stud. There's about a 2-3 degree diffrence in the surface of the 2 Mounts, but it's not a huge deal. Rob mentioned that he was looking into building some Motor Mount shims, to compensate. Also, there's a Alignment Pin (1/4"??) on the 5MGE Mount... You should drill the 22R/RE mount so the Pin will drop in. (I took the Grinder to mine, since the motor was in already & I returned my borrowed Engine Hoist.)
How about Exhaust?
The Manifold is on the Passenger side, so you either have to run it under the Motor and out the Drivers side (Which I plan on doing) or deal with the T-Case & Gas Tank being in the way.
Cooling?
I'm going to use the 4 Cyl Radiator for now... If it has issues with cooling, I'll get a Radiator for a 4.3 Swap. I was told by a Radiator Shop that the 6 Cyl Radiator was capable of cooling a Ford 5.0 V8, so it ought to cool a 3.0 Toyota engine. You'll have to move the radiator forward about 1.5-2" and run a Elec. Fan or 2 on the front. I plan on running 2, 10" Electric Fans. The Coolant inlet & outlet need to be swapped on the Top & Bottom. I had a local shop do this for $45.
Fuel Delivery-
The 22RE & 7MGE have similar pressure requirements. I believe the 7MGE specs list 1 more PSI than the 22RE Pump.... that's all. I'm going to try the 22RE Pump & if I have staration probs at high RPM's, then I'll get a Supra Pump or something aftermarket.
Dropping in the Engine-
There's about 3/4" of room between the Firewall & Radiator support, as the motor goes in. You'll need to drop the T-Case(s) & Tranny, inorder to get the engine in. It's very tight! Once it's in, it is a great fit.
Misc. Issues-
The Battery on the 4x4's, sits where the AFM goes on the Supra. I'll either move my battery to the Drivers side or put it in the Bed.
200 Horsepower, 190 Ft Lbs, & no pricy Adapters or welding in new Motor Mounts? I'll take the 7MGE any day over a 4.3.
So far, that's what I have done. The motor is in, the Tranny, T-Cases & Driveshafts are all bolted up & the Radiator has been worked on. I still need to build the Rad. Mounts & get the Electric Fans. From there, it's wiring & routing fuel lines, hooking up the radiator hoses & finally exhaust.
My swap has been taking forever because I started with a 22R to EFI Swap, then ditched it after I had some problems. My options were to rebuild the 22RE ($1,200 min) or look into a swap. So far, I believe my 7M Swap has cost me under $1000.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
getting close. How much weight difference is there between the 6 and the 4?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I'd guess it's around 100 lbs. or less....?
Bones
Registered User
- Location
- Kansas City, MO
Great info. This is my second choice for a swap (2.7 4cyl is first) Sounds like it is pretty straight forward and once you dive in, you learn as you go like always. Is the exhaust the same side as the 22R? I assume the 4cyl starter is used as well. One more question, what radiator are you using and do you need to run push fans for clearance?
Oh also, is the oil pan a rear sump on the 7's?
Oh also, is the oil pan a rear sump on the 7's?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
You sure you read everything?
The exhaust is on the opposite side, I doubt you can use a 22R Starter, I'm running the factory V6 Radiator & yes, pusher fans for clearance.
Bones
Registered User
- Location
- Kansas City, MO
Okay, I skimmed it real fast.Originally posted by Greg
You sure you read everything?