- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
So when can we go? Tomorrow?
Any Mtn Bikers on RME?
- Thread starter glockman
- Start date
- Location
- Stinkwater
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
Just throwing this out there. I have a 2018 Haibike 10.0 Full Seven LT SDURO eBike that I bought earlier in the Rona Virus era that I want to sell. I bought it from the original owner and it had 102 miles on it. I now have 352 miles on it. It is an XL frame and has some descent components on it.
I like the bike, I like it a lot actually. The problem is I am 5'10" and this is an XL frame. If it was a large frame I would keep it. I thought I would be okay with a larger frame and I thought I was until I rode by friends Large frame. I just want to get my money out of it so I can go find me something in a large frame. If anyone is interested, you can message me and come take it for a spin. Battery life on these things is great. I took it up Mueller Park to Elephant rock on Sunday and spent most of the time in the highest assist level and it dropped one bar on the battery meter. I think there are 8 bars on it.
New this bike retails for $5,500.
I would like to get $3,500 for it which I believe it is worth all day long. It does have another set of taller handle bars and some nice peddles. The original bars will come with it. It also has what is left of a 3 year warranty from Mad Dog Cycle in Orem. Its the Bike Love Ultimate Bike Coverage plan and its labeled as the BETTER PLAN. They have a Good Better and Best plan.
I will post some pictures of it as soon as I get them off of my phone.
Shock RockShox Deluxe RT, air
Shifting Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore XT M786 Shadow Plus, 20-speed
Front Derailleur Shimano SLX M7000
Dropper Post XLC AllMtn, Remote, telescope, 31.6mm
Wheels DT Swiss H1900 27.5"
I like the bike, I like it a lot actually. The problem is I am 5'10" and this is an XL frame. If it was a large frame I would keep it. I thought I would be okay with a larger frame and I thought I was until I rode by friends Large frame. I just want to get my money out of it so I can go find me something in a large frame. If anyone is interested, you can message me and come take it for a spin. Battery life on these things is great. I took it up Mueller Park to Elephant rock on Sunday and spent most of the time in the highest assist level and it dropped one bar on the battery meter. I think there are 8 bars on it.
New this bike retails for $5,500.
I would like to get $3,500 for it which I believe it is worth all day long. It does have another set of taller handle bars and some nice peddles. The original bars will come with it. It also has what is left of a 3 year warranty from Mad Dog Cycle in Orem. Its the Bike Love Ultimate Bike Coverage plan and its labeled as the BETTER PLAN. They have a Good Better and Best plan.
I will post some pictures of it as soon as I get them off of my phone.
| Motor | Yamaha PW-X (15mph), 500 watts, 80nm |
| Battery | Yamaha Lithium Ion, 500 Wh |
| Display | Yamaha LCD-X Display |
| Brakes | Magura MT5 hydraulic disc brakes |
| Drivetrain | Shimano Deore XT M786 Shadow Plus, 20-speed |
| Fork | RockShox Lyrik RC Lockout 150mm |
Shock RockShox Deluxe RT, air
Shifting Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore XT M786 Shadow Plus, 20-speed
Front Derailleur Shimano SLX M7000
Dropper Post XLC AllMtn, Remote, telescope, 31.6mm
Wheels DT Swiss H1900 27.5"
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rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
jsudar
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Cedar Hills
Becaues this thread has been dead too long... Because regular high school has been kinda lame this year, I've had make up for it with extra metal shop classes. Those conversations with your teenager about where bikes come from are not nearly as awkward as the ones about where babies come from.
This is my 15 year old's "aggressive" cross country 29er frame. 67° head angle and 140mm travel Reba. He's been riding it in the raw, but we'll probably tear it back down this week for some Fire Orange powder coat. He did the brazing on the cable guides and some of the minor joints. I have spent too much money on orthodontics to let a newbie braze the main joints, so I brazed them up.
This is my 15 year old's "aggressive" cross country 29er frame. 67° head angle and 140mm travel Reba. He's been riding it in the raw, but we'll probably tear it back down this week for some Fire Orange powder coat. He did the brazing on the cable guides and some of the minor joints. I have spent too much money on orthodontics to let a newbie braze the main joints, so I brazed them up.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
Cool! Why brazed joints instead of welded? Sorry for my ignorance....building a bike frame is not something I've ever looked into or considered doing.
jsudar
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Cedar Hills
Several reasons, none of them very scientific:
1. Oxy/Acetylene torch setups are cheaper than TIG welders. I have two and I'm only in $500
2. I don't have a TIG at home yet, and dragging all my frame building stuff to the shop at the work place is a PITA
3. I'm okay at TIG welding, but brazing is a much more forgiving process. It's harder to screw up and it's kind of fun.
4. It's nostalgic and unique. They've been brazing frames for over a hundred years, but it's kind of a lost art form nowadays. You will not meet anyone else on the trails riding a fillet brazed steel frame unless they had it custom built by one of a handful of frame builders. You may see a lugged brazed bike from the 80's though. My old 1989 Trek 990 was lugged.
5. It looks cool. If we do a good job filing the fillets, once it's painted, you shouldn't be able to tell where one tube ends and the next begins. Kind of a carbon fiber look, but steel.
TIG welding makes a lighter joint, it's a little bit quicker to do and it's arguably stronger, but oh well...
1. Oxy/Acetylene torch setups are cheaper than TIG welders. I have two and I'm only in $500
2. I don't have a TIG at home yet, and dragging all my frame building stuff to the shop at the work place is a PITA
3. I'm okay at TIG welding, but brazing is a much more forgiving process. It's harder to screw up and it's kind of fun.
4. It's nostalgic and unique. They've been brazing frames for over a hundred years, but it's kind of a lost art form nowadays. You will not meet anyone else on the trails riding a fillet brazed steel frame unless they had it custom built by one of a handful of frame builders. You may see a lugged brazed bike from the 80's though. My old 1989 Trek 990 was lugged.
5. It looks cool. If we do a good job filing the fillets, once it's painted, you shouldn't be able to tell where one tube ends and the next begins. Kind of a carbon fiber look, but steel.
TIG welding makes a lighter joint, it's a little bit quicker to do and it's arguably stronger, but oh well...
sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
Super cool design. I love those floating seatstays. Nice work C!
Question: I see a lot of frames with seat tubes that have two tubes welded together to lengthen it. Any idea why do they do that instead of just starting with a seat tube that's long enough? I'll see if I can get a pic. Usually it's about 4" below the seat collar.
Question: I see a lot of frames with seat tubes that have two tubes welded together to lengthen it. Any idea why do they do that instead of just starting with a seat tube that's long enough? I'll see if I can get a pic. Usually it's about 4" below the seat collar.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
That's cool. I did notice the filleted joints and once it's painted you'd almost think it is a fancy carbon fiber frame. Have you ever built a full suspension bike? Cool stuff.
jsudar
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Cedar Hills
I have a Santa Cruz 5010c frame that got squished and I glued it back together for measuring purposes. I’m going to use the links and suspension geo and build my own front and rear triangles. I think there’s a pic in this thread four or five pages back of the glued up frame. That will be my first suspension bike. I just started on my gravel bike frame, so I need to finish that first.
jsudar
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Cedar Hills
Steve— you can’t see it in any of the above pictures very well, but that frame has exactly what you are talking about. It’s an insert that’s sized to adapt to the seat post. Most seat tubes are 1 3/8” x .035” wall tubing which is nice and light, but the i.d. is too small to hold a seat post. It’s usually a socket fit, so you sweat in (or fusion weld) a heavy wall piece of tube at the top to clamp the post. Super common on steel and Ti frames.
My green bike is different as it actually has a specially drawn piece of tube that’s super heavy for the top five inches and the tapers down to a thinner wall.
My green bike is different as it actually has a specially drawn piece of tube that’s super heavy for the top five inches and the tapers down to a thinner wall.
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- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Ok. Thoughts on the e*thirteen trs+ 12speed conversion?
www.pinkbike.com
I've got 11 speed GX sram stuff and I can do it for $200.
I'm currently spinning out on flat ground and road descents are basically coasting after about 28mph.
I think the plusses are lower weight, and range 511% vs 420% I have now. Plus I keep my GX shifter and derailer so it's WAY cheaper than x1 or even gx eagle 12 speed.
Downsides: $200 for one gear.
Review: e*thirteen's New TRS Plus 12-Speed Upgrade Kit - Pinkbike
Have an 11-speed SRAM drivetrain and want one more cog? e*thirteen's $299 USD conversion kit includes all the parts to make that happen, including the internal shifter pieces that you'll need to install inside your SRAM shifter.
I've got 11 speed GX sram stuff and I can do it for $200.
I'm currently spinning out on flat ground and road descents are basically coasting after about 28mph.
I think the plusses are lower weight, and range 511% vs 420% I have now. Plus I keep my GX shifter and derailer so it's WAY cheaper than x1 or even gx eagle 12 speed.
Downsides: $200 for one gear.
- Location
- Stinkwater
Are you using all of your granny? I think I'd try going up a couple teeth on my chain ring before getting into a conversion like that.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Yes. I'm in the lowest climbing gear lots.
I think couple teeth on the chainring will make the climbing gear suffer but I'll do some math right now.
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
So right now I'm 10-42 in the rear, 30 front.
The TRS+ kit is 9-46
I'd need to go 33 front to get a descent gear change that's similar but my climbing gear would move a bunch.
The TRS+ kit is 9-46
I'd need to go 33 front to get a descent gear change that's similar but my climbing gear would move a bunch.
Actually planned to upgrade my 2x10 to 1x12 Shimano XT for this season but put on hold, $, feels like saving up for air lockers did back in the day, actually going to cost about the same if I have a shop do the install and build a rear wheel... I need to figure these gearing questions out too, thanks for sharing Stratton.
rholbrook
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Kaysville, Ut
I have a problem here. I added this to my eBike stable. This made #3. This is a game changer for me. If it wasn't for the electric assist, I wouldn't be on a bike, especially in the mountains. I love them. This one is a Giant Trance X E+ Pro 29 1 Large Frane. I also have a Giant Stance E+ 1 in a medium frame and a Haibike 10.0 Full Seven LT. I actually have the HaiBike up for sale and think it is sold. Will know if a little bit.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
Rode the wasatch crest (dropping down into the canyons ski resort rather than millcreek canyon) Saturday morning. Lots of torn up trees from the wind storm. Great ride though. Managed to clean puke hill. Did a much better job regulating my speed so I didn’t have to stop this go around unlike last trip a couple months ago. Leaves weren't great. Wonder if the wind storm/cold made the quakies just drop their leaves or blew them off? It looked more like spring up there than fall with how bare the trees were.
