Any Mtn Bikers on RME?

[sixstringsteve]

excellent. Assuming I get my brakes fixed in time, we should be able to shuttle and get at least 3 runs in.

 

[jentzschman]

Is a full suspension bike necessary for a novice mtn biker? I would like to get one but don't know much about them so not sure if the cost of full suspension is worth it...

 

[193kyle]

Not at all Trevor, in fact, I just bought my first full suspension bike 2 weeks ago. Also if price is the issue, you are way better off with a quality hardtail than a cheap full suspension.

 

[jentzschman]

Not at all Trevor, in fact, I just bought my first full suspension bike 2 weeks ago. Also if price is the issue, you are way better off with a quality hardtail than a cheap full suspension.

What quality hard tails worth looking at?

 

[193kyle]

I don't think you can go wrong with most of the big name companies-Trek, Specialized, Giant, Kona, GT, the list goes on. As long as you don't buy a bike from Wal-Mart.....

 

[RockMonkey]

nice video rock monkey. How big are those gaps on the car jumps?

Thanks! There are some huge gaps, but the cars I think are two of the more doable jumps for me. It was my first time on the trail, and I was just concentrating on not going down any lines that would lead to my doom. Everything went by so fast it's hard to judge them. Probably ten feet from take off to landing? I would love to get out and ride with some of you guys some time. I'm pretty new at this so I wouldn't want to hold anyone up though.

Edit: Kinda hard to see, but there is a huge jump at 3:32 in the video. I kinda want to just hang out there and watch for a while some day.

 

[RockMonkey]

Here is the ride that got me interested. About a month ago I went out to five mile pass with someone from work.

[video=youtube;m7OnbChpNfg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7OnbChpNfg[/video]

 

[sixstringsteve]

Come ride with us tonight rock monkey, you won't hold is back. We ate pretty laid back, we take breaks every 5 Mon anyway. If you like bobsled, you'll love maple hollow.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Not at all Trevor, in fact, I just bought my first full suspension bike 2 weeks ago. Also if price is the issue, you are way better off with a quality hardtail than a cheap full suspension.

Kyle is spot on. I rode hardtails for 15 years before I went the full-suspension route. I miss riding hardtails so much that I might just have to build another one up.

 

[sixstringsteve]

What quality hard tails worth looking at?

If you're willing to buy used you can get some great deals. Even that one that Costco sells isn't bad. You Know rides one, and for the price, they're hard to beat. I recommend one with disc brakes. $300-500 can get you a really good hardtail. Lots of people want full-suspensions, so hardtails are getting even cheaper.

If I were you, I'd go into Canyon Bicycles and get sized up. All of their bikes will be a lot more $ than a used bike, but you can learn about bikes and what to look for. Be straight up and tell them "I'm looking to get into mountain biking. I want a used bike, but I don't know the first thing about them. Can you teach me what to look for and how to size a bike?" Bike size is the BIGGEST factor, in my mind. If you get the wrong size, it'll be tough to gain confidence and control over your bike. I'd guess you'd want a LARGE, or 18-19" bike, but don't go off my guess, go off your sizing. As a general rule of thumb, you should be able to stand with your feet flat on the floor, and with the seat completely behind your butt, lift the bike until the tires are a good 2-3" above the ground with the frame hitting your pelvic bone.


There's a lot of debate around 26" vs 650b vs 29" wheels. Everyone has their opinion, here's mine:

- If you're wanting to carve berms and hit jumps and ride aggressively, the 26" wheel bikes are the preference.

- If you're wanting to do long climbs, generally slower speeds and you're more worried about being as efficient as possible, a 29" wheel is a great choice.

- If you want to overpay and be hip on the latest trend with limited tire sizes and parts, and have a mix of the benefits of both the 26" and 19" (so they say), the 650b (27.5") is for you.


I ride a 26" bike and I love it. The 29ers climb really well, but I can't ride them as aggressively as I like, and they hold me back on the downhills. Plus I don't feel comfortable with my COG so high. For your first bike, it doesn't really matter whether you ride a 26" or 29", it's all going to feel a little weird.

One more option is to rent a few different bikes to see what you like. I think you're on the right track with the hardtail though, it will make you a better rider once you switch to a full susp.

Confused yet?

 

[sixstringsteve]

here are a few, you'll still need to check size:

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=25069325&cat=191&lpid=4&search=&ad_cid=4

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=25057797&cat=191&lpid=7&search=&ad_cid=6

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=25048458&cat=191&lpid=9&search=&ad_cid=7

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=24757134&cat=191&lpid=2&search=disc&ad_cid=2


No disc brakes, and dated components, but I had tons of fun on a bike like this in high school:
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=25014230&cat=191&lpid=12&search=&ad_cid=12


And a cheap full suspension with good parts:

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=25056196&cat=191&lpid=8&search=&ad_cid=2

 

[sixstringsteve]

None of those bikes are going to be professional XC race or DH bikes, but they'd all be decent bikes to get you through your first season or two on a budget.

 

[Slangy]

If the $600 range is not too expensive the Scott Aspect 940 29er is a pretty good deal. I just bought it last week for my wife and it has been great. The nice thing about it is the fact that it has hydraulic brakes. The front for is not the highest end but if you start riding and can't get enough you can always upgrade the front fork to something nicer.

http://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/227753006/bike-aspect-940-s/#.UYkXu8oWByI

 

[MattL]

Here is my opinion. Dont rent. The cost is too much for entry level bike. Also what Steve said about getting educated before buying is priceless. There are some shops/manufactures that have test rides available. I know that Guthrie has annuals for trek and santa cruz. Size is important. For a used bike, buy used until you know its what you want to be part of. The secret of buying used is knowing what your buying. There are many great deals and others that scream run. Again, have to know what your looking for.
There are some forums that are pretty knowledgeable but most of the MTB forums have too much sarcasm and negativity for me.

Also, have a price limit on what you want to spend.

Things that are nice/must, functioning quality hydraulics brakes, front shock, and lock in pedals. cantilever/center pull brakes are a think of the past after having hydraulics.
Something other people get caught up in is weight. Its important but not so much as you could take a crap and that would fix the total weight problem between you and a choice of bikes.
Also, for a first bike, dont get caught up with keeping up with the Jones on a fancy bike. Get a good working functional bike and you'll be happy up front. Its like being a kid again. When you determine this is something you want more of then learn more spend more saddle time and pick up a new to you upgraded bike.

Lastly, buy a good helmet. Id be happy to help if you need it.

 

[MattL]

Took a quick gander on ksl and nothing screams special to mean. lots of avoid me bikes. I have particular tastes though.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Matt is spot on in his advice. I'm a bit of a weirdo and I'll get raked over the coals for saying this, but I think a GOOD set of cable-actuated discs (like BB-7s) are every bit as good as a set of hydraulic. I have hydraulic formulas on my GT right now, and I don't feel like they're any better than my cable-actuated Avid BB7s on my last bike. That being said, most cable disc brakes are garbage. Going with a 1 size up rotor up front really helps too.

 

[YOUKNOW]

Yes, I bought the Costco bike. I work there so it was easy for my to get started with this bike, and was a great price for what I bought. I first bought the 26er and loved it, but there were a few things that I thought the 29er would do better so I purchased the 29er. I also love the 29er for what I do, but when I want to get buck wild going downhill and jumping, I miss the 26er. The only thing I would change on my current bike (29er) is put a different front shock on it. Other wise I love the bike and will ride the wheels off of it, and probably will not buy another till it can't be fixed anymore. I would also take the advice of Matt L. and look at getting a good helmet. Don't skimp on that.

 

[MattL]

Steve, ill be glad to volunteer to rake you across the coals as many times as you want. I have had bb5, bb7 on several bikes. Ill never go back to cable. Cost per value is amazing. I am the biggest tight ass out there and I wish i would have gone hydraulic years ago. The cables stretch and housing can as well. I got avid elixrs when they came out and it was like having a new bike again. I love them. Just remember not to squeeze the brake when the rotor is not in the caliper. Going up a size will help if your on the brakes alot, dh for example due to the heat. Here is a brief thread on this subject

 

[sixstringsteve]

I've worked as a bike shop mechanic for 5 years. I stand by my statement that a properly set up and adjusted set of BB7s with the right lever is as good as any hydraulic setup.

Everyone doesn't have to agree with me, but I've seen a lot of people convince themselves their bb7's weren't any good because they weren't "hydraulic" (I'm not accusing you of this Matt, you've tried it all). Anyone who rode my last bike can attest that the BB7s were every bit as good as any hydraulics. Cable brakes have a different feel, but I actually prefer the way they modulate over hydros. Am I going to sell my hydraulic brakes and switch to cable-actuated? No, there's no need. But if I were building a bike up from scratch I would definitely go with cable BB7s again, I was completely pleased with those brakes, and I don't feel that the added cost and hassle of hydraulic brakes is justified.

In other words, don't turn down an otherwise decent bike just because it has cable-actuated discs instead of hydraulic discs. I will agree that a good front fork is probably the most important component of a good hardtail. Another opinion I have that others will surely disagree with is that the mid-level shifters/derailleurs are usually 95% as good as the expensive ones. It's easy to get caught up in having the latest carbon this and that, and the $300 derailleur, but in all honesty, it doesn't make a huge difference.

When the rubber hits the road, it's all about having fun riding. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that you need the absolute best equipment (especially derailleurs and shifters) to have fun.

 

[MattL]

How about this, either system, hydraulic/cable disc, when properly set up is better than a center pull or a v brakes? So with this, ill agree. And I hope you didn't take the pulling through coals seriously but you offered, and i accepted.
Anyway you are correct they are different feels. Either will work great. Get out and test them and see the difference. Early versions of hydros were nightmares and expensive and id take cable over them.

I will also add this. Sometimes it is harder to upgrade to disc brakes because there are not tabs on the frame to bolt on to. If it already has disc then upgrades should be available. Most of the "newer bikes" with cable vbrakes will have a mount on the shock for a disc brake but questionable on the rear.