Builing the YJ, need opinions!!!
- Thread starter mesha
- Start date
Where does the $6,500 come from? I read $8,000.
soda blaster said:
I agree with Devin. I want to know how to do this. That would be a 13" stretch. I did XJ's in the rear and drilled out my pad to gain another 1", and gained 1" up front the same way, and I am at 101", an 8" stretch.
One of my favorite modifications, but how do I get that extra 5" from the way you described?
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I know he's wanting to sell it.
Is your a manual or auto? More than likely a manual... if that's the case & it's a 4 cyl, I'd add the 231 reduction box your talking about & put your t-case with the 4 to 1 behind it. Those 4 cyls need gearing since they don't have much power. Kinda like a Toyota.. and you've seen what dual cases does for a Toyota.
If you did that you'll have all kinds of options, stock low range, 4 to 1, and them doubled would be 10.8 to 1. That's deep, but you'd only need it for the highly technical stuff. You have a range for sand/snow, a range for trail running and a range for nasty big rocks. Between the 231 adapter, new driveshafts, etc you'd probably spend half of your money, $1000.
Do you think the dana 30 will hold up to the extra gear multiplication? The deep gears would be nice. Do you have any experience with the 231 doubler? would you do a klune v or a doubler?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I don't know about the Dana 30 holding up, too many factors. It would be worth trying, IMO. If you start breaking shafts & u-joints, upgrade! I almost did a 231 reduction unit with a Dana 300, until I got a deal of an Atlas. I think it's a decent idea. A Klune is just a reduction unit that you can adapt to near-anything, the 231 reduction kits require much more work, but you save the $$ vs. the Klune.
I can tell you that I liked having the 2 different ranges that my Toyota had. It was very useful to be able pick the best ratio for the terrain.
rondo
rondo
- Location
- Boise Idaho
There were a couple of Q's, so here goes.
My fuel cell and stretch. All i did was remove the tank from the stock location, cut a hole in the tub and move it behind the driver seat longways. Then i made a bridge over it to cover it up. It's sunk into the floor about halfway, and all lines hook back up, etc. I ran the fuel cap and fill hose into the side of the tub behind the driver seat by cutting a square out and refitting the plastic around that. It looks quite clean actually but is a slight pain to fuel because the fill hose isn't angled enough. I would like to do a real fuel cell but in my search i couldn't find anything that fits the stock fuel pump, which i want to retain in order to keep my gauges, etc working. A local 4x4 shop told me they build adapters to go on summit racing cells so the stock YJ pump can be used. i'll probably go that route very soon, so i can regain even more room in the back.
For the stretch i had to cut the frame ahead of the air shock so it would fit the axle. I put in box steel behind the frame, and then retied it all in to the other side. I had m buddy professionally weld it all the way around for strength. It's a bit ugly since i did it at home but it works. I got all the brackets and control arms, etc made at outer limit motor sports before they went out of biz. I noticed JR was doing just this mod on a YJ so i had him duplicate everything for me. It took the R-D out of it and i was able to do it at home. For the air shock mount i just made them out of it sch40 and fit them tight using a hole saw.
My fuel cell and stretch. All i did was remove the tank from the stock location, cut a hole in the tub and move it behind the driver seat longways. Then i made a bridge over it to cover it up. It's sunk into the floor about halfway, and all lines hook back up, etc. I ran the fuel cap and fill hose into the side of the tub behind the driver seat by cutting a square out and refitting the plastic around that. It looks quite clean actually but is a slight pain to fuel because the fill hose isn't angled enough. I would like to do a real fuel cell but in my search i couldn't find anything that fits the stock fuel pump, which i want to retain in order to keep my gauges, etc working. A local 4x4 shop told me they build adapters to go on summit racing cells so the stock YJ pump can be used. i'll probably go that route very soon, so i can regain even more room in the back.
For the stretch i had to cut the frame ahead of the air shock so it would fit the axle. I put in box steel behind the frame, and then retied it all in to the other side. I had m buddy professionally weld it all the way around for strength. It's a bit ugly since i did it at home but it works. I got all the brackets and control arms, etc made at outer limit motor sports before they went out of biz. I noticed JR was doing just this mod on a YJ so i had him duplicate everything for me. It took the R-D out of it and i was able to do it at home. For the air shock mount i just made them out of it sch40 and fit them tight using a hole saw.
I have been thinking about the doubler. It would be nice to have the low crawl ratio again. I already have the other half of the 231 since I put in my 4 to 1. I am worried about the length. I could move the engine forward or I could extend the wheel base. Maybe I'll link it up. A front axle would be nice though. I have never broken a 30 though.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I think that's a logical combo; add the doubler, stretch the wheelbase with a 4 link & coils at the same time. I think it will be a different vehicle with more wheelbase & deep gears.
That would be a hell of a deal then for someone.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Links... more hassle, but your YJ will hookup on any terrain. A friend of mine said 'The worst 4 link will out perform the best leaf sprung suspension'. You'll need all the traction you can get, since you can't waste any power. A bigger motor might be a different story. IMO.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
I disagree with that. I've seen a bunch of rigs with such terrible 4-link geometry that they would have been much better off with leaf springs. Leaf springs work very well. A poorly engineered 4-link can really give you problems.
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Absolutely not true.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Eh... it sounded good. All of my leaf-sprung vehicles haven't hooked up all that great on climbs. The few linked rigs I have driven were a world of difference. I know that statement is too much of a generalization, but you get the idea. IMO, it's hard to screw up a 4 link, follow some basic rules & it should work pretty well.
I do! There's one sitting right next to me right now, as a matter of fact.
Let me dig up a picture.....