- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Glad they helped! I'd imagine the truss will work with an ARB line, depends on where the fitting is. Do you have a rear axle that already has the ARB installed?
Builing the YJ, need opinions!!!
- Thread starter mesha
- Start date
Glad they helped! I'd imagine the truss will work with an ARB line, depends on where the fitting is. Do you have a rear axle that already has the ARB installed?
The typical spot for an ARB line pokes it out right through one of the holes, so even if it's preexisting it'll likely work. If there's no fitting installed, then you can definitely place the hole in the middle of one of the speed holes. 
It's FAR easier to drill and tap that hole before the truss is welded on, but it can be done after the fact.
It's FAR easier to drill and tap that hole before the truss is welded on, but it can be done after the fact.
ARB already installed. It pokes right out the top. I was trying to find a fitting to change that so it wouldn't get squished at compression but I guess a truss would protect it.
Your arms are bent for clearance I assume. Does that weaken them at all? I was thinking about doing that. My links are R.E. links. Can I just bend them or would I need to gusset at the bends?
I was also wondering about the uppers. I have seen some people and kits that run the triangulated links to the outside of the frame rails so they can be longer. I think the Tera LCG kit did that. Is it worth it, or is it more of a headche then it is good.
What size of joints will the brackets and the truss hold up to?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I'm using a TeraFlex LCG for an Unlimited. The arms are bent to clear the frame & still work with a stock TJ rear axle. I'm not sure what you mean by running the uppers outside the frame, as you can see the TeraFlex LCG doesn't do that.
The Unlimited lowers are bent, standard TJ lowers aren't. If yours are long enough you could bend them, RE arms are thinner wall thickness but larger diameter than the Tera ones, and are chromoly so they're going to be tougher to bend. (I'd just leave them straight if I were you)
The Max LCG kits have the front upper arms triangulated and mount outside the frame, but that's not necessary in the rear since the frame rails are much wider back there than at the front. (if you mounted the front uppers inside the frame you wouldn't end up with much triangulation at all)
The Max LCG kits have the front upper arms triangulated and mount outside the frame, but that's not necessary in the rear since the frame rails are much wider back there than at the front. (if you mounted the front uppers inside the frame you wouldn't end up with much triangulation at all)
Yeah, I should have made that clear. The outside the frame was on the front I saw not the rear. I didn't realize the front was narrower than the rear until you said it. I will probably leave them straight if they are chromoly.
Would just regular lower mounts work for me for the lower control arms? They are pretty cheap. Also is it worth trying to triangulate the lowers as well?
I am debating on having a shop do it. I would rather do it myself. It looks like if I get the brackets greg used it wouldn't be that bad. Plus, I want to cut my old brackets off since I got a plasma cutter for Christmas and haven't used it yet. Rock Logic quoted me a very reasonable price. Are they pretty good about hitting the quote they give you? Any other shops I should check out?
I know I am a little late, but 4 links are not hard but not simple either.
The wrong link setup could flip you over backwards or sideways where leafs or a properly set up 4 link will not, a bad one will also make really squirly driving on the highway.
Keep in ming that a properly designed 4 link requires experience and scales (to weigh the rig) and a lot of math.
But to get it close is easy, and make adjustable brackets for the rest.
Here are a couple of generalizations that work for most 4 links.
1.the higher your uppers are (axle and frame, but try to keep them close to paralell to the ground at ride height), the higher your roll center (or the imaginary point that your body rolls on).
2. 10 degrees of triangulation is about the minimum for locating an axle, but with a wrangler you will have a lot more because of how wide the fram is in the rear.
3. 8 inches of separation between the uppers and the lowers on the axle is a great number to shoot for to get killer axle control.
4. The longer the arms are the more they are usually going to hang up on obsticles.
5. the flatter your lower links are and the more they triangulate into the center of the frame, the less wheel walk you will have when you flex.
6. The separation of your upper and lower links on the frame is the key to how your jeep feels when under power, and decides whether you lift or squat. Or even in greater detail (confusing to most) The location of the imaginary intersection in a verticle plane of the upper and lower links (instant Center) in relation to your center of gravity decides weather your rig lifts or squats .
There is a Lot more involved, but find somebody who has a 4 link in the back of their rig and drive it, or find a couple of buddies that have their rigs linked up. find one you that you like the way it feels and copy it, or have a shop copy it. i am sure that some of the shops in SLC have rigs you could test drive and get a good feel for what you like.
I have found that on dual purpose rigs and daily drivers that a good zero sqat almost paralell geometry works the best and keeps handeling pretty predictable in most situations.
I do these setups all day long, but I am in Oregon. if you have any questions about setting your system up PM me or email me and I can help you out with geometry or whatever.
gripguru
Nate Davidson
- Location
- Meridian ID
Good stuff here, I am just about finished linking the rear of my YJ. First timer. I have done everything recommended except my separation at the axle is closer to 6.5"... I have to trust my welds. Control should be there, I cannot wait to have this thing back on the trail. I have not seen the 4 Link calc linked in this thread, so here is a way to make your gears turn for hours:
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcalcv15html/index.html
http://mysite.verizon.net/triaged/4linkcalcv15html/index.html
Update back from the underworld
Well, it's been awhile now so I figured I would update.
Still haven't put in the 9 inch front very soon though. I havent been able to decide on steering and stuff.
Stretched it out in rear and linked it up. I payed someone to do it and they didn't do a very good job. It works really well, but it is off centered a little and the tires rub my airshocks. It does work though. I should have done it myself I really could have done a better job. I may end up redoing it.
Put on 14 inch SAW airshocks I love these.
Put in my doubler and the gearing is crazy low. I love it at 208 to 1 now. I am going to bigger tires soon.
stretched the front using land cruiser springs. I am about 112 now I think.
anyhow I should probably post some pics.
Now I got some more money to blow so I need to figure out next step.
Well, it's been awhile now so I figured I would update.
Still haven't put in the 9 inch front very soon though. I havent been able to decide on steering and stuff.
Stretched it out in rear and linked it up. I payed someone to do it and they didn't do a very good job. It works really well, but it is off centered a little and the tires rub my airshocks. It does work though. I should have done it myself I really could have done a better job. I may end up redoing it.
Put on 14 inch SAW airshocks I love these.
Put in my doubler and the gearing is crazy low. I love it at 208 to 1 now. I am going to bigger tires soon.
stretched the front using land cruiser springs. I am about 112 now I think.
anyhow I should probably post some pics.
Now I got some more money to blow so I need to figure out next step.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I was wondering how this was coming, good to see an update. You care to say who did your 4 link? That sucks they screwed it up. Sucks even more that you may have to re-do it. The doubler sounds cool, glad you're happy with the gearing. What size tires are you on now?
Well, the guy who did my 4 link's name is shawn not the shawn from here. He doesn't one a shop, but I was lead to believe he did a lot of side jobs with this kind of stuff. He is good friends with seth at rocklogic and made it seem like he had been asked to work there a few times. He was supposed to do some things that he didn't. After I got it home I called him and he said he would fix it. he kept putting me off now he won't answer my calls. I have called him everyday for the last month and left a message. He had a good looking buggy though. I had to run two sets of wheel spacers on each side to get the tires not touching the shocks. They still touch on full compression. He was cheap, but overpriced for what I got.
I still have to fab up the shifter for the rear case, but I just leave it in most of the time.
I am running 35's right now. I am trying to decide between 37 38 39.5 inch tires. I know everyone is going to tell me that without 60s I can't run tires over 27 inches tall, but whatever.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Wow. Sorry to hear you got taken. Have you tried adjusting the arms to center the axle? It sounds like it's too far off for that to work, but you do usually have to fine-tune the length of the arms after building a 4 link to get the axle right where you want it.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I'm curious how that 760 (CTMs and alloys?) joint will hold up with that much gearing and bigger tires. The gearing could help you, but maybe not?
I am a little worried. I ran 38 inch tires on my CJ with a 350 and low gears and I never broke stuff on that stock 44. Well, I broke one when I didn't put the c-clips in and the ujoint was full of sand.
Hoping for similar luck we will see. I am doing alloy shafts and nice ujoints. I just haven't decided which one yet.