Jeep Cheap Cherokee Build

[Tacoma]

That link setup is a little less-standard, but I think it should work fine for what you're putting it on. Links mystify me anyway. And I dig that it appears that you've done what you can to deal with the unibody, lot better than the spooky longarm x-member I used from Teraflex... nothing wrong with it, I just got a hinky feeling tapping my suspension crossmembers with a 10mm tap, through double-thick sheetmetal.

Curious to see how the front end ends up looking.

 

[jet_aj]

The front of the bumper will sit less than 3.5 inches in front of the grill. I would really like to know how this compares to a stock bumper.

My stock bumper was ~3-3.5 inches from the grill, but it was bent so it may be different.
I did a very similar design on mine and have been very pleased with it so far. I made the bumper removable to allow for accessing the winch from the front.

Here are a couple pics of what I did. (Not the greatest, cell phone pics)

The sub structure... Cross member/winch mount plate. The cross member stopped all flex caused by the steering box.
http://www.geocities.com/jet_aj/0525081900.jpg

and the completed assembly with bumper bolted in place, not painted yet
http://www.geocities.com/jet_aj/0526082015.jpg

The back side has a splash shield to keep engine bay gunk from getting into the winch.

I really like what you have done with this Jeep so far, keep up the great work, I can't wait to see it in action

 

[jsudar]

If you axle had not already had the C bushing wedges on it, would you have still used C bushings? Or would you have built some other sort of method for attaching your radius arms? Which, by the way, look really good. I have radius arm envy.

 

[RockMonkey]

If you axle had not already had the C bushing wedges on it, would you have still used C bushings? Or would you have built some other sort of method for attaching your radius arms? Which, by the way, look really good. I have radius arm envy.

No, I wouldn't have gone to the trouble of attaching the wedges on an axle that didn't already have them. I used this method because it was convenient and cheap, given the selection of parts I was able to acquire (for cheap), and I know it will work. I would have probably built something else if a different selection of parts fell into my lap.

I've sold some parts and am into this entire vehicle around $3800 now, which I think is still really low given the extent of the build. There are some more parts to buy, but also a bunch more to sell.

 

[RockMonkey]

There's been embarrassingly little progress since the last update 4 weeks ago. I have managed to get the front frame plates done, and the winch mount, and sheet-metal portion of the front bumper. The inner and outer frame plates are sleeved through with a 1.25" sleeve and a .75" sleeve on both sides. The steering box also has new sleeves through the frame. I will need to trim away some of the grill so I can access the winch clutch lever. The tube on the top is just a place holder. It is not the permanent piece. The flared holes will be used for turn signals and auxiliary lighting.

 

[Herzog]

Yay for progress!

 

[Brett]

Uh......want to plate the front frame on my XJ??? Pretty please?

And are you going to be losing the entire front grill?

 

[RockMonkey]

Uh......want to plate the front frame on my XJ??? Pretty please?

And are you going to be losing the entire front grill?

No, I'm pretty sure I never want to do that again.

Why would I need to lose the entire front grill?

 

[XJEEPER]

Braden, the winch installs from below? More details please.........

 

[Kiel]

Braden, the winch installs from below? More details please.........

Maybe he could mount it upside down also and the handle would be totally accessible from beneath so no grill trimming

 

[RockMonkey]

Hmm... From the questions, I'm gathering that it's not clear, there is a Warn M8000 already mounted in those pics. It fits nicely (meaning barely), with no grill trimming. The only reason any grill trimming is required is to fit my hand in there to manipulate the winch clutch lever.

The winch installs from the top, the only catch is I have to take out the 6 bolts holding the radiator mount in, and lift the radiator and AC condenser up a few inches to slide the winch in. Since I will rarely (if ever) need to remove the winch, I'm not too worried about the extra steps to get it in and out. Here's a picture that shows the winch a little better.

 

[RockMonkey]

Here are a couple shots from the top, with the winch out. The tube welded onto the back of the mount is so I can run the rope out the back of the winch to have it attached to the front axle. This is probably how I will run it most of the time. I also made caps for to cover the open space between the two frame plates on each side, but they are not yet installed.

 

[I Lean]

That looks really good!

Just an option, you can combine those corner marker lights as turn signals also--that's what I did with my 4runner. I just drilled a hole (3/4" or so) in the back of the housing below the bulb, glued a little piece of PVC over the hole, then a somewhat larger bulb pokes through that hole for the signal.

Another way I've accomplished the same effect is to replace the little marker with an 1157 bulb and socket so it can do both tasks--the one downside to that is the 1157 runs hot enough that it can sometimes melt the lens if you mount it too close.

 

[Brett]

No, I'm pretty sure I never want to do that again.

Why would I need to lose the entire front grill?

Sorry, I asked since you were saying you were putting turn signals and such in the "bumper" area. What's your plan on the front end?

 

[I Lean]

Just some links for reference--all these use an 1157, I didn't find any that did it with two separate bulbs like I did.

http://yotatech.com/f131/1st-gen-4runner-2nd-gen-pickup-marker-light-blinker-mod-147453/
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TurnSignal.shtml
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/tacoma_turn_signal/

 

[Tacoma]

Can you not see the sketch there, Brett?

hehe

 

[RockMonkey]

That looks really good!

Just an option, you can combine those corner marker lights as turn signals also--that's what I did with my 4runner. I just drilled a hole (3/4" or so) in the back of the housing below the bulb, glued a little piece of PVC over the hole, then a somewhat larger bulb pokes through that hole for the signal.

Another way I've accomplished the same effect is to replace the little marker with an 1157 bulb and socket so it can do both tasks--the one downside to that is the 1157 runs hot enough that it can sometimes melt the lens if you mount it too close.

Sorry, I asked since you were saying you were putting turn signals and such in the "bumper" area. What's your plan on the front end?

Thanks! All the stock lights will be gone. Those corner lamps hang too far out to not be continually destroyed. It sounds like I have to have all the same lights as stock to be street legal. I would really like to find some grommet-mount amber LED lights that will function as both parking lights and turn signals. Then I can put one in a 2.5" hole on each side of the bumper. I haven't yet figured out how to mount parking lights and turn signals to be viewed from the side. I would really like to stick with LEDs, instead of standard bulbs.

 

[RockMonkey]

I really want to find something like this, that will act as both a parking light and turn signal.

Maybe I can just wire it some way so that it is on solid with the lights, and flashes on and off when I turn the turn signal/flashers on. Would that satisfy the DOT requirement?

 

[I Lean]

I really want to find something like this, that will act as both a parking light and turn signal.

Maybe I can just wire it some way so that it is on solid with the lights, and flashes on and off when I turn the turn signal/flashers on. Would that satisfy the DOT requirement?

That image didn't come through, but yes--I think a flashing marker light will satisfy the requirement, it doesn't have to be a bright/dim thing.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Very slick Braden!