RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Wow, it's been over a month since this has been updated...:ugh: Progress has been made. I just built my radius arms today. I'll take pics and post a proper update soon.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Just a quick pic of my finished radius arms. They are 2" x .250" wall DOM on the bottom with a small section of 1.75" x .120" on top, and plated on both sides with 1/8". They are triangulated, so the frame-side mounts are on a crossmember, underneath the transmission pan. Will post installed pics when they're back on.

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Wow!

Just skimmed the build... Great job! Very impressive!

Where are you located? Looks like you have a great shop/garage to work in... I've had to do all my work from a driveway... so it ends up being less pretty than yours ;)

Anxiously awaiting the final build
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Wow!

Just skimmed the build... Great job! Very impressive!

Where are you located? Looks like you have a great shop/garage to work in... I've had to do all my work from a driveway... so it ends up being less pretty than yours ;)

Anxiously awaiting the final build

I'm in West Valley. Having the right tools and a nice place to work definitely helps create good results. :)
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I haven't started on the track bar yet, but I did mount the radius arms. The front suspension is starting to look like a front suspension. The upper portion of the radius arms end where the arm passes under the frame, allowing the greatest possible compression. I will, of course, be removing the factory lower control arm mounts.

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The front axle is moved forward a bit, so the approach angle is decent. I think I can keep the approach angle about where it is now, even with the winch bumper. :)

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Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Why did you decide to mount the radius arms inward like a triangulated suspension? What will that do for your roll center, etc...?

Do you plan on using a track-bar or will that be sufficient to keep the axle tracking properly?

:cool:
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
I'm with Herzog on this one.I don't really dig that idea but to each his own.We will find out how well it works when it makes it out on the trail I guess.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Triangulated or not, radius arms using the Ford "C" bushings require a track bar to center the axle. The reason for triangulating it is to reduce (greatly) the anti-sway affect inherent in radius arms. Bronco guys who use this type of radius arm often use a "wristed" radius arm to address the anti-sway issue and free up the suspension to flex. By triangulating the frame-side mounts I have freed it to flex, without reducing the strength of the arms by adding a joint. Trust me, it will work. Ask Cody. ;)
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I should mention that both crossmembers will be braced. The rear crossmember is welded in and will be braced to the upper control arm mount plates on the frame. The front crossmember is bolted in and will be braced to the rear crossmember by a bolt-in brace (or two). This bolt-in section between the two crossmembers will also incorporate the transmission mount.
 

Cody

Random Quote Generator
Supporting Member
Location
Gastown
I'm with Herzog on this one.I don't really dig that idea but to each his own.We will find out how well it works when it makes it out on the trail I guess.

Stay away!!! It doesn't work!!! It will never make it off the trailer!

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RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
The next step in the front suspension build is the track bar. That means I need to build a track bar mount, which means I need to build a frame for the track bar mount to attach to. So I built some frame/steering box reinforcement/winch bumper/front crossmember plates. Most XJ winch bumpers I've seen are huge, and stick way out in front of the grill. This one will actually have more ground clearance than stock. I will be removing the low-hanging stock front crossmember after the plates are on at the front tube is welded in to keep everything from moving. The front edge of it is less than 3.5" in front of the grill. I didn't take a measurement of the stock bumper, but I bet this sits very little further forward than stock (anyone want to measure a stock bumper for me?).

Here's a rough sketch of my concept. Pretty basic, but It should give rollover protection, transition nicely into the rest of the cage, hold the winch solidly in place, and stay out of the way as much as possible. I'll add some dimpled gussets where the two tubes meet on either side to pretty it up some.

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Here are the plates. They have not yet been drilled for plug welds, or bent to follow the frame.

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I clamped them on just to get an idea how they are coming out. From this you can kinda see the direction I'm headed with this. The stock crossmember you can see in this pic will be removed. There will be a plate underneath the frame running from side to side, and bent up to the top tube. The winch will sit on this plate, and the front part of it will house the fairlead. I built a similar bumper on my buggy (without the top tube) and liked how it worked out.

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The front of the bumper will sit less than 3.5 inches in front of the grill. I would really like to know how this compares to a stock bumper.

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You can get an idea of what the approach angle will be like. Not ninety degrees, but not bad, for a Cherokee...

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