RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I moved the gas tank back.

First I cut out the rear "saddle":
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I cleaned it up, cut it down, and tacked it back in three inches further back:
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Then I used some 1.5" bar stock and bent up some front "saddles":
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I used the stock gas tank straps to mount it back up:
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The axle is back where I want it now:
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Now that I know everything fits right I'll pull the tank back out and patch up the holes I cut for the rear saddle.

The next step is to build a nice cross member under the t-case and mount the links for the rear axle. I spent some time measuring and looking and pondering that this afternoon. The upper control arms are going to be interesting. I may end up reworking the floor somewhere around the rear seat to get them where they need to go.
 

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Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Just seeing what you've done so far I think this is going to turn out very cool. You have some patience... :D
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Nope, not cool yet. Keep going. :D

It'll never be cool. It's a Cherokee!


Just seeing what you've done so far I think this is going to turn out very cool. You have some patience... :D

I'm glad someone is confident... :ugh: I spent all day on it today and accomplished almost nothing. I did manage to figure out how my rear four-link is going to work. The upper control arms are going to be interesting. :eek:
 

Rusted

Let's Ride!
Supporting Member
Location
Sandy
How tall are your rear passengers? If they are kids can the seat go a little higher? It would buy you a little room to work with, and give them a better view.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
They will make a nice foot rest for the rear-seat passengers. I'll have to make a little tunnel for them that's removable so I can get the bolts in and out.

Without knowing what you have in mind exactly, can you make the link tabs BE the sides of your tunnel? That'd save you from having to make a removable anything, and the only downside (if it is one) is that you'd have an exposed bolt head or nut inside the passenger compartment.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
How tall are your rear passengers? If they are kids can the seat go a little higher? It would buy you a little room to work with, and give them a better view.

None of that is necessary. It will only be about 6 inches wide and 3 or four inches tall, near the outside edges of the rear seat foot-well. It will not really be in the way of anyone. The stock seat location leaves plenty of room for them. The rear seating will pretty much be as comfortable as it ever was. It will be a while before my kid's legs are long enough to touch the "control arm tunnels" anyway.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Without knowing what you have in mind exactly, can you make the link tabs BE the sides of your tunnel? That'd save you from having to make a removable anything, and the only downside (if it is one) is that you'd have an exposed bolt head or nut inside the passenger compartment.

That's an interesting thought. It would make installing the control arms a two-man operation, as you would have to be underneath the vehicle to move the arms into place, and inside to slid the bolt in. I'm going to use the old standby 3/4 X 5/8 joints on the uppers and it would be nearly impossible to get everything in if the misalignment spacers got knocked loose.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
That's an interesting thought. It would make installing the control arms a two-man operation, as you would have to be underneath the vehicle to move the arms into place, and inside to slid the bolt in. I'm going to use the old standby 3/4 X 5/8 joints on the uppers and it would be nearly impossible to get everything in if the misalignment spacers got knocked loose.

Yeah, you would need help. Probably wouldn't matter once it was done, but while you're building....

You could weld the misalignment spacers in to ease that part.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Yeah, you would need help. Probably wouldn't matter once it was done, but while you're building....

You could weld the misalignment spacers in to ease that part.

I tacked them in on my buggy, but managed to knock them loose.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
looking good so far. i'm trying to sell my car so i can get an xj and start the madness... again. not going to be as gnarly as your build, probably just a d44 rear w/detroit, 4:10s, 32 or 33" tires and as little lift as i can manage (maybe 4") with cutting and trying to be "street-legal"

looking forward to your build :D
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
looking good so far. i'm trying to sell my car so i can get an xj and start the madness... again. not going to be as gnarly as your build, probably just a d44 rear w/detroit, 4:10s, 32 or 33" tires and as little lift as i can manage (maybe 4") with cutting and trying to be "street-legal"

looking forward to your build :D

Nothing gnarly about this build. Should be a nice tame little rig. I'll probably be around 4" lift too. Planning on cutting a lot. ;)
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
Hey Monkey I still have the rear crossmember/link mounts from my Xj 4 link system and I've been trying to sell it.I had mine so they didn't need to travel up and into the floor.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Hey Monkey I still have the rear crossmember/link mounts from my Xj 4 link system and I've been trying to sell it.I had mine so they didn't need to travel up and into the floor.
I could easily make the links so they don't need to go through the floor, but I would have to sacrifice the geometry I want. The floor intrusion will be minimum enough that it's not worth sacrificing performance for. ;)
 
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