Jeep Cheap Cherokee Build

[RockMonkey]

I can't start building the suspension until I have something to build from. So I have to build a frame, since my Cherokee lacks one from the factory.

I had some craft time and made myself a template.

Transferred it onto some 3/16ths steel.

I cut them out, and laid out my pattern for plug welds.

Here are the inner and outer plates all ready to go. The cutout on the inner plates is to go around the pinch weld on the inside of the frame.

Clamped the wee out of it.

Then welded. A lot. For a long time. It sucked.

The bottom of the frame is now 3 5/8 wide so it will be simple to finish the box. This should give me a decent foundation to attach all the link mounts, crossmembers, and the cage.

 

[notajeep]

Good work man! This is coming along very nice.... for an XJ. :greg:

 

[RockChucker]

that is sweet, and a great idea to strengthen the unibody. i guess low weight is always good too.

 

[RockMonkey]

that is sweet, and a great idea to strengthen the unibody. i guess low weight is always good too.

They really don't weigh very much.

 

[XJEEPER]

Looking good Braden. I went the T&T route on my uni-rails, but inner plating won't hurt either.

 

[RockMonkey]

Looking good Braden. I went the T&T route on my uni-rails, but inner plating won't hurt either.

Yeah they seem like a pretty good deal, but I need the inner plates for my four-link. As long as I had to make a template and cut out the inners, I figured I might as well save a buck and cut out the outers myself too.

 

[Brett]

Looks nice. Keep going!

 

[mbryson]

..... Keep going!

why?

 

[XJEEPER]

Yeah they seem like a pretty good deal, but I need the inner plates for my four-link. As long as I had to make a template and cut out the inners, I figured I might as well save a buck and cut out the outers myself too.

Do you plan on plating the bottom of the uni-rail too? I'm curious, why the 4 link rear? What shocks/coils?

 

[bryson]

Do you plan on plating the bottom of the uni-rail too? I'm curious, why the 4 link rear? What shocks/coils?

I think the bottom plating would be a very good idea... the crumple-zones crumple pretty easy. Are you mounting lower links to the bottom of the frame, or on the sides?

 

[Meat_]

The bottom of the frame is now 3 5/8 wide so it will be simple to finish the box..

Do you plan on plating the bottom of the uni-rail too? I'm curious, why the 4 link rear? What shocks/coils?

I think the bottom plating would be a very good idea... the crumple-zones crumple pretty easy. Are you mounting lower links to the bottom of the frame, or on the sides?

 

[RockMonkey]

Do you plan on plating the bottom of the uni-rail too? I'm curious, why the 4 link rear? What shocks/coils?

Yes, I will be plating the bottom. It is simple once the sides are in place. 3 5/8s wide and straight. I will also be plating the top of the frame for a few inches. I like the way 4 links work, I'm familiar with them, and I have most of the parts to build it that way. I can also move the axle back as far as I want without having to worry about creating a big overhang from the leaf springs. There are very few drawbacks to a well-designed four-link, and I'm not afraid to do the work. Why not? I'm not sure what shocks and coils yet. I have some 4 inch TJ rear springs that I can probably make work.

 

[bryson]

...Are you mounting lower links to the bottom of the frame, or on the sides?

 

[RockMonkey]

...Are you mounting lower links to the bottom of the frame, or on the sides?

Neither. They will be triangulated to a crossmember behind the t-case.

 

[Bart]

Great idea. Love it.

 

[RockMonkey]

Last weekend I ran out of welding gas early Saturday morning, so not much progress was made. This weekend was a bit better. The frame is complete on both sides. It has inner, outer, and bottom plates for four feet underneath the doors. I also got the slip yoke eliminator installed today. Now I have a good idea where the drive shaft will be, so next weekend I can build cross members and get the rear suspension built. I'd really like to have the rear axle linked and sitting on bump stops after next weekend (my coilovers will probably not be here yet), so I can start tearing apart the front end.

I also ordered a Warn M8000 winch, which should be here tomorrow.

Progressing is happening, just slowly.

 

[I Lean]

You can always make rigid/fake coilovers if it helps any to have it at ride height.....

 

[RockMonkey]

You can always make rigid/fake coilovers if it helps any to have it at ride height.....

Yeah, I may stick something in to put it at ride height. The structure that the coil over will mount to won't actually exist for a while...

 

[RockMonkey]

Now that the frame is built the next step is to build two crossmembers. The rear one will be a mount for the rear lower control arms, and will form the rear edge of the skid plate. The front will be the mount for the front radius arms, which will be triangulated to reduce the sway bar effect inherent to radius arms. Ideally I'd like to have both crossmembers flush with the bottom of the frame, and have a nice flat belly. It doesn't look like it's quite practical to do that, but I will get sorta close. It will be flush with the frame rails at the back edge, and will gradually drop to 1.25" below the frame rails at the leading edge. It will allow me to cover all the important bits with the skid plate, and won't interfere with the driveshafts and transmission. It's lower profile than the stock crossmember, and it's a lot lower profile than the stock lower control arm mounts , so it's a definite improvement. Since I can't actually start building for a while, I got my fill by making a to-scale artists rendering.

 

[Herzog]

Ooh diamond plate even!