cheap cherokee

gijohn40

too poor to wheel... :(
Location
Layton, Utah
damn badger do you have a full time job? you must be putting in some very long hours after work if so... lol

Keep up the pictures and comments!
John
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
well i went over to Harbor Freight to get some more goodies to help the project along

pa200812mi1.jpg


some dollies ,hammer,air flanging/hole punch tool,spot weld cutter, and a magnet welding brace.
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
was feeling bored and now that i have the flanging tool i can't wait to get after it tomorrow morning.

so i played with photochop again.this is pretty much exactly what i wanted in the first place

chopped32fg2.jpg


from here its time to start the square tube chassis and exo cage
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
no actually it will have square stock from the front bumper to the rear of the cab .from there it will be a full tube bed like this but without the stock Comanche rails of course

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Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
another look at work done today

this side is flanged and still needs to be brought in a 1/2"
pa210821un4.jpg


for the most part the body lines are good.
pa210824fr0.jpg


like i said the bottom still has to be swung in a 1/2".i will still have to do some patch work.the driver side floor was rusted out over top of the frame rail.
pa210830va8.jpg


i will be able to clean up the inside pretty good and blend it all together
pa210829xo6.jpg


the roof lines are the next big hurdle .from the gutter line down they match(other then the floor pan) but the roof is taller on the Comanche by about 1".so now i will clam shell cut the roof ,cut it down and put it back to match it up with the Cherokee.
pa210825du9.jpg
 

GOAT

Back from the beyond
Location
Roanoke, VA
another look at work done today

this side is flanged and still needs to be brought in a 1/2"
pa210821un4.jpg


for the most part the body lines are good.
pa210824fr0.jpg


like i said the bottom still has to be swung in a 1/2".i will still have to do some patch work.the driver side floor was rusted out over top of the frame rail.
pa210830va8.jpg


i will be able to clean up the inside pretty good and blend it all together
pa210829xo6.jpg


the roof lines are the next big hurdle .from the gutter line down they match(other then the floor pan) but the roof is taller on the Comanche by about 1".so now i will clam shell cut the roof ,cut it down and put it back to match it up with the Cherokee.
pa210825du9.jpg

Nice job Badger. I suggest you have a cold one for your efforts!

When it comes time to spot that thing in, let me know. I may be persuaded to bring my mig over if you have 220:greg:
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
so today i did what you all have been waiting for -well some of you anyway

i cut the last bit of cab roof off to start shaping it.this is were that picture of the dollies and hammer come in .

pa200812mi1.jpg


i cut the section off leave just over an 1" above the window
pa230839zk5.jpg


it left me with the interior header still poking up
pa230840ri8.jpg


cut that back next
pa230849qw8.jpg


using the dollies and the slap hammer i started stretching out the roof line
pa230854qi2.jpg


with it tucked under the XJ roof
pa230861mu5.jpg


pa230862qk9.jpg


pa230863pe6.jpg


of course i still have to do some more massaging to make it fit just right.clean up the edges and flanges them .then tack it all together.


i also finished framing out the drivers side rear window
pa230842tx3.jpg


pa230845lc8.jpg
 
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Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
some more pics i didn't get to upload till now

readyforweldingcd8.jpg


pa240865vs7.jpg


pa240866js6.jpg


pa240867pc2.jpg


now i just need to work the passenger side like the drivers side.then i need to work on getting 220 up to the garage.damn rental homes never have what you need,lol.

i'm hoping to have the chassis done by spring .at that point i can either strip out the engine,trans,and case for something else or just beat the stock drive train for a bit with some real axles under it over course.
 

gijohn40

too poor to wheel... :(
Location
Layton, Utah
I'd be glad to come help you get the 220 up to the garage... I have most the parts you need and might even have some spare cable to get it there for you if its a short run... I do electrical work for a living...
 

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
There's a lot of talk about the 220 welder, but I've always used a 110 for body panels. Plenty of penetration for the thin metal there.
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
ya but i will still need 220 when i start on the frame work.plus i don't think anybody is going to be nice enough to lend my a 110 welder
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
ya but i will still need 220 when i start on the frame work.plus i don't think anybody is going to be nice enough to lend my a 110 welder

I agree with Bart... That's why I have my little 110, for thin and easy stuff - it's a lot easier to pack around than the big one. If I was still around, I'd loan you mine....:D
 
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