Cherokee help

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
Need some help... how do I fit thisView attachment 87353



To fit into thisView attachment 87354

Very carefully, I have actually added a belt driven york, 2nd battery, charcoal canister, ARB solenoid all while still keeping the A/C and cruise control
Post #1
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up

Clayton's long arm kit is fairly affordable and I've heard great things about it.

I thought that "Clayton" and "Affordable" could not be in the same sentence by law or something.

Actually considering that the Clayton kits come with A LOT of bits and pieces that other kits don't come with it isn't too much more than other kits. (plus you get the big square control arms)

Nathan
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
So today i took it out on a VERY mild shake down run. I need to dig into the front end it makes A LOT of noise. Also there are no lockers front or rear like i was told. The tires work well hopefully they will soften up over some time because they are very very hard. I designed a front bumper that hopefully i can get done this week. I plan to have the rear bumper / tire carrier done next week. Then sub frame connectors and rock sliders. I need to trim some sheet metal but nothing too bad.
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
Ok so a few things I know is when building a rig that you want to wheel ASAP on a strict budget are the first 3 things you need to look at are; 1.passenger safety 2. traction (tires, lockers, ect...) 3. body protection. well I have acquired the tubing for the cage, my sub frame connectors are ready to go on. Will be working on the integrated rock sliders tomorrow. I have a set of old school mud tires on it but they are HARD (but they are awesome, hopefully they soften up) what are my options with traction? I really want to go to WOTR but I am not sure I will be able to do much without lockers (of some kind) My worry is I don't want to dump 500 per axle just to blow the axle. SO what are my REALISTIC options on a TIGHT budget? I have some plans on the suspension with the upper links I just want to get the protection done first. The bumpers are on hold due to my plasma table going down today. Hopefully the tech gets out this week and I can get it back on track.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
In my opinion you can't beat the value of Aussie and Spartan lockers. They're about $300 each. My group has them front and rear with no issues. The only problems any of us had was that my locker that I bought already in the axle was not set up correctly. Aussie sent me a new one for a screaming deal even though I wasn't the original purchaser.

As far as WOTR goes, one of my buddies (xj) was only locked in the rear and he still had a blast down there on The Maze, Sliplock Gulch etc. Of course being locked on both ends is always better but I wouldn't let only have one locker stop you by any means.
I just remembered that another buddy with an xj was only locked in the front w/ the factory limited slip in the rear (crappy) and his jeep did fine as well.
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
I will be looking into getting some then. Ithough my alternator was going out but after doing some test i found it to be a faulty gauge. I need to figure out if the howling i am getting is tires or gears
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
So this weekend I plan on looking over the front end. While driving it the front end seems REALLY lose. I am going to test out the flex but I think it is no good. The tires seem to be softening so that is good news. Still looking for the lockers. I am not sure if I will be making it to WOTR due to finical issues that have arose over the last couple weeks.
 

gorillaxj

Always building hardly wheeling
Location
SLC
Maintenance first! But honestly IMO if your planning on using it and wheeling it for an extended amount of time. The first thing with a XJ should be uni-body stiffeners, sliders, upgraded steering box spacer, bumpers (with proper tie in points for the uni-body)

Now that your protected and can take more of a beating Lock the front with a cheap lunchbox locker (spartan,Aussie,lock-right). The HP D30 can handle a good amount of abuse especially with 33's. I would also grab ABS or 95 (IIRC) and newer front shafts from the JY as they are bigger shafts and slide right in, if you add the inner seal at the diff while its out you can eliminate the 2 piece axle shaft at the same time, and throw 760 joints in there and it should be solid for 33's. I wouldn't lock the rear until you decide the long term goals and whether the 8.8/8.25/D44 are worth the time and money in the long run. Then lock the rear you pick and re-gear F&R

Don't forget the steering. (Pick axles first) lots of options but most of the good ones will need a new track bar setup as well. getting rid of the factory Y steering setup made a huge difference in response let alone strength.

I would then address the suspension(assuming its fully working just not ideal yet). For the front pick a long arm setup (Clayton 3 link is ideal for a bolt on kit) but radius arms work well for less cost but they come with there own issues as well (do lots of reading on the benefits ect before jumping in) For the rear I would fix the shackle angle as almost all are vertical. I loved my shackle relocation kit from HD. Made it ride 100X better on the street and it flexed a ton better too.

Sounds like your already off to a good start, just my thoughts after building one. :) Don't forget to look into JY upgrades, lots of info and options out there for XJ's.
 

hoosier

mtn yot
Location
Tooele, UT
Thank you for the help. Well I got the sub frame connectors done (just need put in) the rock sliders will be done Monday then I can measure for the boat sides. I took it to work and found out there is NO flex. I am going to disconnect the sway bar to see how much that helps. CAM00300_zpsed994ef2.jpgCAM00301_zps8394d976.jpg
 

SiRed91

Member
Location
Woods Cross
My sway bar discos made it behave like a complete other vehicle, most noticeable cheap mod on my build so far, and relocate the shackles. Cadillac pimpin as much as a cherokee can lol
 

XJEEPER

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland Springs
The shackle allows the distance between leaf spring mounting eyes to lengthen when compressed and shorten when drooped. The correct shackle angle is approx. 45 degrees at static height. Too little angle will result in a stiffer ride and limit flex, too steep an angle will result in a softer ride, but will likely limit flex as the shackle will contact the frame or mount and restrict the suspension from cycling properly.

Im not saying you need these, but lots of XJers run them to improve their shackle angle and also gain a bit of lift, if needed. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=955999
 
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N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Google xj shackle relocation and you'll find a billion results. It's basically bolting a bracket to your existing shackle mount that lowers your shackle holes and adds a bunch of different options. I don't have a problem with my shackle angle so I've never bought them. I also don't care for how low they make the shackles as I am already hitting mine often enough.

Boatsides are becoming quite common on XJ's but a lot of people have the wrong idea about what "true" boatsides are. I have them but mine were easier cause I ditched the doors and b pillar. Keeping the doors and doing them very high is hard because of the windows.
They're also one of my favorite mods.
 
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